P38 won't start

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If the filter bowl was full, that could be a good sign....but if the In Tank Pump isn't delivering the flow....

Look on top of the relay there should be a diagram, two pins go to a coil which pulls in the switch which is connected to the other two pins.

Looking on the underside of the relay the pin should have numbers next to the (something like 5, 30, 82, 86 etc) these correspond with the pin numbers on the diagram on the top of the relay...

Using the schematic I attach below I have shown the bridge connection in RED...using the relay diagram and the pin numbers on the bottom, find the pins to bridge and use a length of MAINS electrical cable due to current draw, thin cable will not be up to the job!
 

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I tried it and can't see or hear anything so guess pump dead. I got it off the drive way so now much more flat than before the only thing is a message flashed up about some disablement but could have just been to do with battery low
 
Saint.V8 said:
If the filter bowl was full, that could be a good sign....but if the In Tank Pump isn't delivering the flow....

Look on top of the relay there should be a diagram, two pins go to a coil which pulls in the switch which is connected to the other two pins.

Looking on the underside of the relay the pin should have numbers next to the (something like 5, 30, 82, 86 etc) these correspond with the pin numbers on the diagram on the top of the relay...

Using the schematic I attach below I have shown the bridge connection in RED...using the relay diagram and the pin numbers on the bottom, find the pins to bridge and use a length of MAINS electrical cable due to current draw, thin cable will not be up to the job!
Click to expand...

Live feed from battery positive to pin 5. Unless car is MY 99 or on lift pump will not run on cranking. :):)
 
Last edited:
Saint.V8 said:
He will be bringing me the one you have recommended: the Super-Clamp Majors with the Red Terror Springs....and the butt plugs I mail ordered from Keith, Mega-Ripper Super Jumbo Double Decker with the additional ribs....can't wait! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Click to expand...

:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi
 
Steed said:
Yeah tried it all and nothing so I will order new pump in morning
Click to expand...

Try a positive lead direct from the battery to pin 5 on the relay first as per Wammers suggestion....depending on model year depends on if the pump runs or not with ignition on and/or cranking....Changing the In Tank Pump is quite involved and you will need to prove it is this first by doing the measurement test.

Changing the pump involves either dropping the whole fuel tank down or cutting a hole in the boot floor....neither for the faint hearted...so prove it works first.....battery positive to pin 5 on the relay to run pump for 10 seconds to catch 180ml of fuel....

Steed said:
What the eka code sorry I'm new to most of this
Click to expand...

Emergency Key Access code....

The Fob transmits a code to the vehicle when you unlock it telling the BeCM to disarm the immobiliser...if the fob is malfunctioning or the vehicle was superlocked then unlocked via the key blade you need to enter the EKA code manually to disarm the immobiliser.

The EKA is a 4 digit code and is entered via the door lock.....initiated with 4 Turns to the left...the first digit is entered using the required number of turns to the right and back to centre...the second to the left...then the right for the third and left again for the forth...finally a turn to right to unlock the door and start the car....

( I think that is the procedure - it is all in the handbook)
 
Would the code be in service book or do I have to get from land rover?

Since I took off filter and it drained out now reinstalled no more diesel has come through so would look like pump to me. Going to order one it's pretty cheap part anyway. I'll get installed Tuesday and see how I get on then maybe work or petrol and match time lol
 
It may be on a security card with the handbook and service manual...or you would have to get it from LR themselves.

Before changing parts - you have a disabled message on the dash, so I would suggest trying the EKA procedure....as mentioned, did you try bridging the relay direct ot battery to run the pump??

It would be an expensive job to replace the pump only to find it is OK....

When on Christmas Eve will you find a garage open or has space to fit a P38 fuel pump??? you must have some good contacts!
 
Nah going to fit pump my self. But waiting to Hear from a friend he is a mobile machanic and he is checking if his equipment can do the unlock thingy I have looked for halkeye and fault mate but cost a fortune to buy. Only had the car 5 days and already doing my head in lol. I did the bridge thing but couldn't hear pump at all. But looking back at it all with low bat on key fob and then getting message on car could be the computers code thing you said about. Guess no car for Xmas. Goner kill the fellow who,sold me it lol.
 
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