P38 starting problems

Datatek · Apr 18, 2013

shaunm41 said:
Just spoke to garage. He advised me to check all the fuses and also he gave it a good steam clean to a bit of water may have worked into connectors and be throwing up the faults. Is that likely?

Checked the wire from needle lift sensor and it looks ok

Hot start fix not removed yet but will take it off in a bit

I would never go near a P38 with a steam cleaner, a recipe for disaster. Part all connectors in the engine bay check for condensation in the fuse box etc or tell the garage to do it.

Saint.V8 · Apr 18, 2013

+1....Never ever steam clean the Range Rover engine bay...!!

shaunm41 · Apr 18, 2013

Could moisture in the connectors cause all these errors then?

Datatek · Apr 18, 2013

shaunm41 said:
Could moisture in the connectors cause all these errors then?

Oh absolutely

shaunm41 · Apr 18, 2013

Haha. Easy to fix then?

Datatek · Apr 18, 2013

shaunm41 said:
Haha. Easy to fix then?

Depends if anything has been damaged, fuse box for instance, they like to burn and cause all manner of problems.

shaunm41 · Apr 18, 2013

Lucky I have a spare on the donor motor then. Will hope it dries out ok to start with then

Datatek · Apr 18, 2013

shaunm41 said:
Lucky I have a spare on the donor motor then. Will hope it dries out ok to start with then

Different year, it will not be the same.

shaunm41 · Apr 18, 2013

Oh yeah. Keep forgetting about that.

shaunm41 · Apr 18, 2013

Had a look at fuses in engine bay, that all looks fine, he's only steam cleaned the area around the FIP. Hard to get to any of the connectors to take them off.. Managed to get the one off from the needle lift sensor off and it all looked ok.

But no matter what I try do I can't get a reading on the actual set point degrees.. It just reads 0.00

shaunm41 · Apr 18, 2013

It seems intermittent now, no matter what I did I could not get any thing other than 0.00 on the injection actual degrees. Then I just went out again and started it up and got these readings

This one when revved

But I still couldn't clear the faults and get the lamp to go out

Then switched engine off and started it again and got these readings

But it starts and runs absolutely perfectly. Could it be a bit of moisture messing up the signals?

Datatek · Apr 19, 2013

shaunm41 said:
It seems intermittent now, no matter what I did I could not get any thing other than 0.00 on the injection actual degrees. Then I just went out again and started it up and got these readings

This one when revved

But I still couldn't clear the faults and get the lamp to go out

Then switched engine off and started it again and got these readings

But it starts and runs absolutely perfectly. Could it be a bit of moisture messing up the signals?

Moisture would be my guess, look at the connection to the crank sensor and all the earth points under the bonnet.

shaunm41 · Apr 19, 2013

Thanks will do.. Am I safe driving it like that as its running fine? Maybe the heat under there when driving might help dry it out

wammers · Apr 19, 2013

Look at the separate two pin plug just under the pump. That is the timing solenoid connection. Make sure it is dry and has clean connections.

shaunm41 · Apr 19, 2013

Thanks will look at that too.. Is it ok to drive? It's running perfectly, returning about 20mpg on school run this morning about 10 mile round trip..

shaunm41 · Apr 20, 2013

Well I didn't get chance to look at anything as I had to drive to Sheffield for a meat loaf concert lastnight

I decided to take the range rover and give it a good run.. And the problem seems to have suddenly corrected itself.. The light was always on, then lastnight on the way back to the hotel it started flashing on and off intermittently then stayed off.. Re started the engine and after the usual checks it went off and stayed off

Moisture must have been the cause, and a good run must have cleared it.

wammers · Apr 20, 2013

shaunm41 said:
Well I didn't get chance to look at anything as I had to drive to Sheffield for a meat loaf concert lastnight

I decided to take the range rover and give it a good run.. And the problem seems to have suddenly corrected itself.. The light was always on, then lastnight on the way back to the hotel it started flashing on and off intermittently then stayed off.. Re started the engine and after the usual checks it went off and stayed off

Moisture must have been the cause, and a good run must have cleared it.

Maybe it should be pointed out to the mechanic that there is a rad drain plug. Just pulling hoses is a bad idea.

shaunm41 · Sep 10, 2013

Back to this old issue... Hot starting remains perfect on the first turn, but cold starting first think in morning is shocking.. Cranking for ages, trying to fire but not quite getting there, clouds of black smoke.. Can take 1 - 2 mins cranking to get going.. I'm thinking glow plugs? I did use **** part ones so.........

Thanks

Shaun

Datatek · Sep 10, 2013

shaunm41 said:
Back to this old issue... Hot starting remains perfect on the first turn, but cold starting first think in morning is shocking.. Cranking for ages, trying to fire but not quite getting there, clouds of black smoke.. Can take 1 - 2 mins cranking to get going.. I'm thinking glow plugs? I did use **** part ones so.........

Thanks

Shaun

Bosch, Delphi, Beru, only good quality plugs work and make sure they are specified for the M51 engine.

shaunm41 · Sep 10, 2013

Thanks. Don't suppose you have a link to where I can buy Bosch ones from?

P38 starting problems

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