P38 Rangey EAS Problem

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
SickMyDuck said:
ok guys, just checked the compressor, its pushing air out nicely however when i'm checking the outlet coming from the valve block no air is coming through it, anybody know where to go from here? all airbags are in top condition

cheers, Dan
Click to expand...

With the compressor running there should not be any air coming from the outlet filter if there was your diaphragm would be split. Remove inlet filter and put your finger over that, there should be a vacuum if there is the inlet /exhaust valves are ok. If you take the blue pipe off the compressor and with finger pressure seal the outlet, air should be forced past your finger. If not the compressor seal is duff.
 
wammers said:
With the compressor running there should not be any air coming from the outlet filter if there was your diaphragm would be split. Remove inlet filter and put your finger over that, there should be a vacuum if there is the inlet /exhaust valves are ok. If you take the blue pipe off the compressor and with finger pressure seal the outlet, air should be forced past your finger. If not the compressor seal is duff.
Click to expand...

yeah there is good suction, and the compressor is pushing out slightly warmish air... been through all the eas unlock and calibration tutorials on youtube but they STILL wont move...

thanks for all the replys guys
 
SickMyDuck said:
yeah there is good suction, and the compressor is pushing out slightly warmish air... been through all the eas unlock and calibration tutorials on youtube but they STILL wont move...

thanks for all the replys guys
Click to expand...

So it sounds as if you are down to the elctrical side of things, driver module, fuses, connections etc. You could check that the EAS delay relay is in place under the passenger seat.
I seem to remember that problems with the main fuse box can cause things like this as well. Look for signs of overheating around the relays and fuses.
 
weve worked out that problem is coming from the compressor, its kicking air out but dont think its as powerful as needed.. hopefully have her up and running soonish.. cheers lads
 
wammers said:
If you take the blue pipe off the compressor and with finger pressure seal the outlet, air should be forced past your finger. If not the compressor seal is duff.
Click to expand...

Can you do that with air still in ths EAS system? I thought you had to drain the system of air first.
 
Right, with the weekend over I have noticed something which I really can't fathom.

Whenever the EAS is in normal or motor-way level and I stop her she drops all the way down to the stops and takes ages (7 to 9mins) to get back up to normal level. Well, that is one thing, but now I have noticed the following:

If I leave her in the high/off-road level she does not drop at all, even if left for more than 24 hours.

Saying that, as soon as she drops automatically back down to the normal level and I either stop (engine still running) and choose high ride or stop all together and then re-start she goes back to taking ages to get back up to level.

As I live in the middle of a city and space is very limited (and a bit noisey) I am finding it hard to see (hear) if there is any hissing from anywhere. With that in mind does anybody have an idea what could be the main culprit?

I have got a set of replacement seals for the compressor on the way, even if it's not that it wont do any harm to put the new ones in. I am now playing with the idea to get a set of seals for the valve block too, just in case.
 
Do you not have any EAS faults, because it does not sound like an air leak - if it was a bag - it would definatly drop if left in high level - if it was a pipe etc. it would drop if left at any level. It sounds more like a sensor fault but that should show up on the dash.

Do you have a cable and the RSS software? If not it could well be worth getting one.
 
magictiny said:
Do you not have any EAS faults, because it does not sound like an air leak - if it was a bag - it would definatly drop if left in high level - if it was a pipe etc. it would drop if left at any level. It sounds more like a sensor fault but that should show up on the dash.

Do you have a cable and the RSS software? If not it could well be worth getting one.
Click to expand...

No EAS faults at all on the screen. Nor are any of the "corners" drooping.

Even if it is a sensor fault why would she take so darn long to get back up to the ride hight. As I have said, she is taking about 7 to 9 mins to get from the bumps/load level up to normal ride level and only after about the first 3 mins of that does she start moving very very slowly.

As for the software and cable, at long last I've managed to get a set, but I'll only have them in 2 weeks time when my better half brings them with her from the UK.

When you say RSS sofware, do you mean the software for re-setting the EAS etc?
 
Last edited:
The airbags leak where they fold under at the bottom, putting it in High changes the position of the fold which can seal the leak. My bet would be a leaking airbag especially if they are original.

If the bags have been leaking for a while, the pump may also be shagged.

Do the soapy water test.
 
Datatek said:
The airbags leak where they fold under at the bottom, putting it in High changes the position of the fold which can seal the leak. My bet would be a leaking airbag especially if they are original.

If the bags have been leaking for a while, the pump may also be shagged.

Do the soapy water test.
Click to expand...

Right then, soapy water it is then.

Just one thing (or several). If there is a leak in one of the airbags wouldn't that just cause that corner to sag down, I remember that happening before when I sprung a leak in the original ones.

I thought that the airbags were independent of of each other, by that I mean that each one is governed by one of the valves on the valve block. If that be the case, if one of the airbags had a leak wouldn't that one just loose air but the others would still be left with air in them?

That is something I'm at a bit of a lose in understanding. When all said, aren't the valves set up for that?
 
nathan5346 said:
ages to go up? but it does go up? sounds like a fooked pump to me :D
Click to expand...

Yep, she goes up, stays there and even automatically changes her height. It's just that she take about 7 to 9 minutes to get back to her level once she has gone onto her stops which happens if I stop her in normal ride level. She doesn't drop if I leave her in high mode. (which could mean a leak in one of the airbags, maybe)
 
O Bife said:
From the time I close the door it starts to drop. Never really timed it to the second, but I reckon 5 to 10 seconds.
Click to expand...

For sure you have a leak somewhere, can you hear the EAS solenoids clicking under the bonnet? If you can it's trying to self level to compensate for loss of pressure in one or more corners. If you can't hear the solenoids clicking i would suspect the valve block.
 
Datatek said:
For sure you have a leak somewhere, can you hear the EAS solenoids clicking under the bonnet? If you can it's trying to self level to compensate for loss of pressure in one or more corners. If you can't hear the solenoids clicking i would suspect the valve block.
Click to expand...

Ah, now we might be getting somewhere, I have noticed that when it drops there is not as much "clicking" as normal. Does this mean I need to change the o-rings?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
P38 EAS Down on One Corner
Replies
9
Views
2K
pwood999
pwood999
J
EAS Fault - P38 1999
Replies
16
Views
2K
Datatek
Datatek
F
P38A 97 P38 Gems - EAS issue which seems to have expanded
2 3 4
Replies
79
Views
7K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Bern768
Another P38 (EAS ISSUES)
7 8 9
Replies
162
Views
9K
Bern768
Bern768
J
P38 eas problem (typical)
2
Replies
23
Views
3K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Back
Top