P38 Keys not working

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Ohhh thanks so much, would have completely miss that last step ;)
Hi again, so confused as have had both the alarm and immobilizer disarmed/disabled and it’s been wonderful as could still lock the car with the fob! But tonight i locked the car with the fob and came back and the fob would not work to open the doors and when opened manually got the “engine disabled” message and had to use ekg code to get in…how on earth is this possible if the immobilizer is disabled? thanks for your thoughts! ~d
 
Hi again, so confused as have had both the alarm and immobilizer disarmed/disabled and it’s been wonderful as could still lock the car with the fob! But tonight i locked the car with the fob and came back and the fob would not work to open the doors and when opened manually got the “engine disabled” message and had to use ekg code to get in…how on earth is this possible if the immobilizer is disabled? thanks for your thoughts! ~d
Did you have need for EKA code turned off as well. Usually with Nanocom you turn off immobiliser and EKA but leave alarm
 
Hi again, so confused as have had both the alarm and immobilizer disarmed/disabled and it’s been wonderful as could still lock the car with the fob! But tonight i locked the car with the fob and came back and the fob would not work to open the doors and when opened manually got the “engine disabled” message and had to use ekg code to get in…how on earth is this possible if the immobilizer is disabled? thanks for your thoughts! ~d
The Alarm should not have been disabled, it should be the Immobiliser and EKA that are disabled.
If you lock with the FOB and unlock with the key, it is still possible to get Engine Disabled, but simply re-locking and unlocking with the key will clear the message.
 
Did you have need for EKA code turned off as well. Usually with Nanocom you turn off immobiliser and EKA but leave alarm
Hi, wasn’t aware that turning off eka was an option. If that was left on and immobilizer is off would that for sure be enough to trigger the “engine disabled”? as i assumed that msg was only a function of the immobilizer…
 
Hi, wasn’t aware that turning off eka was an option. If that was left on and immobilizer is off would that for sure be enough to trigger the “engine disabled”? as i assumed that msg was only a function of the immobilizer…
It would not be the trigger, your use of the key did that but leaving EKA enabled meant you had to use EKA to clear the message, see post #23.
 
The Alarm should not have been disabled, it should be the Immobiliser and EKA that are disabled.
If you lock with the FOB and unlock with the key, it is still possible to get Engine Disabled, but simply re-locking and unlocking with the key will clear the message.
Got it thank you. Is there a down side to having all 3 off? If so would engine disable still happen if locked with fob but unlock with key?
 
Got it thank you. Is there a down side to having all 3 off? If so would engine disable still happen if locked with fob but unlock with key?

No and no. It'll be fine with all 3 disabled.

Essentially there are multiple layers of security and not all can be switched off, even with the Nanocom. It was after all the car thefts in the eighties and car manufacturers finally responded.
 
There is no benefit to turning off the alarm and it may have a negative effect on your insurance.
Hi everyone happy holidays :)
I was hoping to double check the simplest way to do a couple of things thanks in advance for your guidance…
1) my alarm, immobilizer and eka are all off with nanocom. i got a new key case on ebay and had the seller remoterepaircentre swap everything out and put a new battery contact in (which was the only thing causing the key to stop working). Got the key back, red light is flashing on key but it’s not locking or unlocking with the fob. no error messages on dash and key is starting car just fine. just trying to get the fob to lock and unlock and read here that the key in ignition while pushing the unlock button won’t work with eka or immobilizer off. is there a simple solution?

2) i am leaving for a month and will be parking the car on a safe street in a safe neighborhood near the train station. even if i unplug the battery i know it won’t hold the charge. with immobilizer, eka and alarm off when i get back and have the car jumped will there any problems with the keys? just trying to plan ahead in case i arrive late at night.

Thanks a bunch ~ dolly
 
Hi everyone happy holidays :)
I was hoping to double check the simplest way to do a couple of things thanks in advance for your guidance…
1) my alarm, immobilizer and eka are all off with nanocom. i got a new key case on ebay and had the seller remoterepaircentre swap everything out and put a new battery contact in (which was the only thing causing the key to stop working). Got the key back, red light is flashing on key but it’s not locking or unlocking with the fob. no error messages on dash and key is starting car just fine. just trying to get the fob to lock and unlock and read here that the key in ignition while pushing the unlock button won’t work with eka or immobilizer off. is there a simple solution?

2) i am leaving for a month and will be parking the car on a safe street in a safe neighborhood near the train station. even if i unplug the battery i know it won’t hold the charge. with immobilizer, eka and alarm off when i get back and have the car jumped will there any problems with the keys? just trying to plan ahead in case i arrive late at night.

Thanks a bunch ~ dolly
You should have left the alarm function on.
Resyncing the FOB has to be done in the door lock. If the car is unlocked, turn the key to the lock position and press the lock button for 5 seconds, then turn to the unlock position and press the unlock button for 5 seconds. That should re-sync the FOB.
A solar panel with charge controller placed in the back window if it faces the sun would keep the battery topped up.
 
You should have left the alarm function on.
Resyncing the FOB has to be done in the door lock. If the car is unlocked, turn the key to the lock position and press the lock button for 5 seconds, then turn to the unlock position and press the unlock button for 5 seconds. That should re-sync the FOB.
A solar panel with charge controller placed in the back window if it faces the sun would keep the battery topped up.
Sometimes i had to repeat the sequence several times
 
You should have left the alarm function on.
Resyncing the FOB has to be done in the door lock. If the car is unlocked, turn the key to the lock position and press the lock button for 5 seconds, then turn to the unlock position and press the unlock button for 5 seconds. That should re-sync the FOB.
A solar panel with charge controller placed in the back window if it faces the sun would keep the battery topped up.
Thanks. I can turn the alarm function but will it matter if the battery is dead in a couple of weeks?

Love the idea of the solar panel it’s just that where we are in scotland rarely gets sun this time of year still worth a try next time!

Any idea if the car will start when i get back if the battery is dead and both immobilizer and eka are disabled?
 
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