P38 - Engine disabled, Press Remote or Enter Keycode!

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Gandhar

Member
Posts
12
Location
Birmingham
Hi All,

I am after some help and guidance really. After some happy miles in my P38 (4.6 Vogue, 1999 but GEMS) for a month, the dreaded msg. has come up on the dash last week thus forcing me to abandon the vehicle in my office car park. I have since tried the following and haven't had much luck -

1) Changed the remote fob battery and tried again (no luck, only one key came with the car)
2) Got the EKA and tried to enter it. (No luck)
3) Tried the battery terminals out - Key in Ignition position II, terminals on again - (No luck)
4) The Keycode lockout happens after just 1 code entering (supposed to be 3 attempts - 96 onwards?) After 30 minutes or so, the msg. goes out so I am able to try the EKA again (to get it locked again!)
5) When entering the EKA nothing flashes or beeps (so not sure whether the code is being accepted)
6) The remote was working (remote locking and unlocking all doors incl. tail) until last week when I parked. So assume that the door locks are OK?
7) Tried to use the key positioned near the RF receive location (Quarter glass on the Driver side). It worked once in the past when similar thing happened. But nothing happens now

Could do with some pointers whether I'd need to be changing something or need someone with plug-in devices mentioned on these sites to be able to talk to the car ECU.

I have spoken to the guy at Jamesons in Birmingham but he said frankly it was not worth his time to assess the issue - honest reply. Did give me all the tips that I had already tried above and was on the phone for good 15 mins or so..

I have exhausted of options but not hope so really looking forward to some guidance!

Thanks and regards
 
Sounds like too many attempts on the EKA code already. I believe you are supposed to be able to open the door after 2 attempts and it resets but never tried it myself.

What's the door-lock like? Sounds like the microswitches might not be working. Have you tried opening the window and moving the door lock manually as you do the key?
 
Thanks for the reply. The door locks were working OK. But with the manual key open, it only opens the Driver's door. However, I opened all the doors from within and they opened. And again when closed manually, they all lock together, so central locking still OK, I suppose!

I can open the door (driver's door unlocks OK with the key) so not sure what'd be different with the window down and manually moving the lock.
 
Gandhar said:
Thanks for the reply. The door locks were working OK. But with the manual key open, it only opens the Driver's door. However, I opened all the doors from within and they opened. And again when closed manually, they all lock together, so central locking still OK, I suppose!

I can open the door (driver's door unlocks OK with the key) so not sure what'd be different with the window down and manually moving the lock.
Click to expand...

Try it. After two failed attempts open and close door for two more without engaging lockout. Key cannot be synced until EKA code has been accepted. If you disconnect battery on these it MUST be done correctly. Slacken negative but do not remove, switch ignition on and off, disconnect negative within 17 seconds. ( Before alarm sets). If lockout continues to happen after one attempt you may need diag to sort it.
 
wammers said:
Try it. After two failed attempts open and close door for two more without engaging lockout. Key cannot be synced until EKA code has been accepted. If you disconnect battery on these it MUST be done correctly. Slacken negative but do not remove, switch ignition on and off, disconnect negative within 17 seconds. ( Before alarm sets). If lockout continues to happen after one attempt you may need diag to sort it.
Click to expand...

Hi Wammers, Thanks. Will try it again tomm with the terminals. Didn't know about the 17 sec rule. On entering the EKA code, it doesn't give me any signal (Posts tell me to see the flashes happen, but nothing! So not sure if the code is actually going in)
 
Gandhar said:
Hi Wammers, Thanks. Will try it again tomm with the terminals. Didn't know about the 17 sec rule. On entering the EKA code, it doesn't give me any signal (Posts tell me to see the flashes happen, but nothing! So not sure if the code is actually going in)
Click to expand...

You will only get flashes or alarm sound if the alarm, side lamps or indicators are selected in BECM as locking tell tales.
 
Ah ok. I thought they were foolproof signs that the code was being accepted. Will try the code again slow and steady (nth time!) or the terminal approach tomm.
 
Gandhar said:
Ah ok. I thought they were foolproof signs that the code was being accepted. Will try the code again slow and steady (nth time!) or the terminal approach tomm.
Click to expand...

From open, four times vertical to the left and back to vertical. Then first digit to right and back to vertical as needed. Then second to left and back to vertical as needed. And so on and so forth right left until full code is in. Then one turn to right from vertical should unlock all doors.
 
EKA relies on the both the CDL and Keyswitch microswitches to be working correctly. This is how the BECM detects CW & CCW key movement.

Your symptoms sound like the CDL is ok because the button also operates the other doors. The key only opening drivers door may be symptomatic of keyswitch error, because drivers door locking is mainly mechanical.

Download Marty's PDF on checking the microswitches here http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/131722-info-front-door-latch-tests.html but bear in mind you could also have door latch wear causing the microswitches not to operate correctly.

Then if you're sure the microswitches are ok, try doing the EKA again.
 
pwood999 said:
EKA relies on the both the CDL and Keyswitch microswitches to be working correctly. This is how the BECM detects CW & CCW key movement.

Your symptoms sound like the CDL is ok because the button also operates the other doors. The key only opening drivers door may be symptomatic of keyswitch error, because drivers door locking is mainly mechanical.

Download Marty's PDF on checking the microswitches here http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/131722-info-front-door-latch-tests.html but bear in mind you could also have door latch wear causing the microswitches not to operate correctly.

Then if you're sure the microswitches are ok, try doing the EKA again.
Click to expand...

Hi Pwood999,

Thanks a lot for this. Will definitely try out. Trouble is, while the car is in a secure compound at works address, it is 30 miles away so can only try these during break / lunch times. If nothing works, will probably get RAC to "rescue" the vehicle home and then try these things on it over the weekend.
 
pwood999 said:
EKA relies on the both the CDL and Keyswitch microswitches to be working correctly. This is how the BECM detects CW & CCW key movement.

Your symptoms sound like the CDL is ok because the button also operates the other doors. The key only opening drivers door may be symptomatic of keyswitch error, because drivers door locking is mainly mechanical.

Download Marty's PDF on checking the microswitches here http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/131722-info-front-door-latch-tests.html but bear in mind you could also have door latch wear causing the microswitches not to operate correctly.

Then if you're sure the microswitches are ok, try doing the EKA again.
Click to expand...

+1. Sounds like a microswitch has gone. You can probably short the wires but I'd find someone with a Nanocom while you can.
 
plus+1 on using Nanocom. General hearsay seems to be that if it has, then it will probably have changed to French !! But at least using this method you can enter the EKA numbers.

minus-2 on shorting the wires. Doing this is more complex than entering EKA using the key. Remember when turning to lock N times, the CDL switch operates once, but the key switch operates the number of turns. Similar for turning key to unlock. So to do it with shorting wires you first need to know whether the CDL is open or closed in the locked position.

Another option (considering the vehicle location) would be to order a replacement door latch either from eBay (and test it works), or refurbished one from Marty http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=60_62 This way you can simply fit the new latch one lunchtime, and try the EKA knowing the latch works.
 
pwood999 said:
plus+1 on using Nanocom. General hearsay seems to be that if it has, then it will probably have changed to French !! But at least using this method you can enter the EKA numbers.

minus-2 on shorting the wires. Doing this is more complex than entering EKA using the key. Remember when turning to lock N times, the CDL switch operates once, but the key switch operates the number of turns. Similar for turning key to unlock. So to do it with shorting wires you first need to know whether the CDL is open or closed in the locked position.

Another option (considering the vehicle location) would be to order a replacement door latch either from eBay (and test it works), or refurbished one from Marty http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=60_62 This way you can simply fit the new latch one lunchtime, and try the EKA knowing the latch works.
Click to expand...

You cannot enter the EKA code with Nanocom unless the BECM is PAM 36 or better.
 
Must be someone with gems nanocom in or near brum.
I must say, I couldn't get my EKA in with the key but 2 Mins with nanocom and all was good.
There is also the possibility that the EKA you have is not the correct one for the BECM
 
I've got a motronic nanocom and I'm up near Preston. If you still haven't sorted it in a few weeks when I get back, I might be able to help. I'm just not sure if the gems/motronic is just for engine management or if it will let me sort out your EKA. Gonna be looking at March at the soonest tho unfortunately. I'm sure there must be someone closer who isn't away as much as me. Offer is there tho if you can't get it sorted.
 
Hi All,

Thanks for all your help. I have given up on trying myself and the car is now with a local LR garage - Tyseley 4x4 who popped up as the closest to where I was.
Will keep you posted on this.

Thanks
 
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