You haven't got a clue! Just an opinion there doesn't count in an MOT situation - Is that what you're saying between your mismatch posting?
P38 Ball joints replacements
- Thread starter ckc100
- Start date
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You haven't got a clue! Just an opinion there doesn't count in an MOT situation - Is that what you're saying between your mismatch posting?
ckc100
New Member
- Posts
- 37
- Location
- Morayshire
Well MOT done and passed and as I drove it out the test station yard the bloomin ABS light and warning came on and wont go off so I will order up a spare sensor from the Bay and tackle it at my leusire now.
The warning noise gets lost in the noise of the electric windows needing reset.. lol
All in all not a bad day with a new MOT in hand and only 250 down for it including a new tyre and MOT and ball joints and track rod end.
The warning noise gets lost in the noise of the electric windows needing reset.. lol
All in all not a bad day with a new MOT in hand and only 250 down for it including a new tyre and MOT and ball joints and track rod end.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Well that is your opinion thankfully it does not mean much. There are lots of opinion situations doing MOTs, but i agree it has been deskilled and any prat can do one now. No mismatched posts i quoted the MOT test manual that i posted a link to. It had been updated but the requirements for section 2.2 were unchanged. I Emailed them and it has now been updated. But the requirements are still open to some interpretation as i see it.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
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- 5,317
- Location
- La Trimouille, Vienne, France
:behindsofa:
Funny you should say that......I happen to have a brand new P38 front axle assembly complete with the swivels and ball joints fitted. All set up by the factory. It is the bare axle, no diff's, shafts or hubs.
I bought it from a LR Independent about 3 years ago as it had been hidden in a corner of his stores for a few years and my idea was to just change the axle if ever the ball joint(s) went on my own P38.
As you may or may not know I am looking to sell my P38 as it's hardly getting any use and is stored in the workshop for approx. 10 months of the year.
Furthermore, we are looking at moving back to the UK to live in the near future and are bringing the P38 and pikey wagon over at the end of March for a while to have a look around for a suitable house and hopefully get sorted. Hopefully, I will sell the car when we are over (Better chance to sell a V8 in the UK than Ireland) after the MOT early April.
As you can imagine, it's too big to put in a Jiffy bag so it will either have to be bought over in the Caravan or the removal van when we move proper, hopefully mid-late April. Unless someone want's to arrange pick up from Ireland beforehand.
I have put a post in the "For Sale" section.
PM me if you are interested.
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Dorset Ranger
Active Member
- Posts
- 108
Hey guys,
I have been quoted four hours a side to do my ball joints by a specialist who has the correct tool. Is it me or does this sound a little bit heavy?!
I have been quoted four hours a side to do my ball joints by a specialist who has the correct tool. Is it me or does this sound a little bit heavy?!
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Try doing it and see how long it takes you. Even with the correct tools.
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
- Posts
- 108
Wammers, you are normally very helpful!
I’m not suggesting it’s an easy job but merely checking in with the people that know to confirm (or not) that the time estimate is accurate. I have been quoted half the time by another garage leaving me in doubt.
I’m not suggesting it’s an easy job but merely checking in with the people that know to confirm (or not) that the time estimate is accurate. I have been quoted half the time by another garage leaving me in doubt.
- Posts
- 68,228
- Location
- The Wooly Witch
Sounds ok, if there are no problems....
Will you be having the drag-link done and the steering checked ?
Just remember that the SPX Service Solutions special tool, which costs around £600GBP, will be needed to press the old ones out, as well as the new ones in !!!!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
ball joint gaiters can be replaced with joint in place,4 hrs a side would be reasonable even with the correct tool ,some get round it by heating the yoke to near destruction , ive done a set on a disco today it took about hrs
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Don't need to go that expensive Dips. This will do the job with ease. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...id=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=121601795943
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
id think youd need a meatier puller than that ,10 tons is nearer the mark
- Posts
- 68,228
- Location
- The Wooly Witch
You'd be replacing that often ... sorry mate ...
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
I think four hours a side is reasonable. It's not a difficult job on ramp with the gear. If the other garage can change top and bottom ball joints, fit a new oil seal and set the drive shaft height in two hours let them do it. If you bought all the tooling needed and did it your self it would take you a lot longer than four hours that is all i was saying.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
No it is possible with that tool did my N/S front last week with one. Maybe not suitable for every day use but did the job quite easily. Well greased up it would last a while.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
No but i do have other uses for such a tool. If you can do the job yourself £66.00 is a lot better than eight hours labour plus parts. And i do have the swivel hub height adjusting tool. I made one. I do wish you would talk about things you know something about now and again.
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Dorset Ranger
Active Member
- Posts
- 108
Ok guys,
Ball joints replaced top and bottom both sides (OEM). Front pan head rod bushes (From Polly to OEM), steering bush (OEM), D bushes to anti roll bar (Orange Polly) and the problem is still there but reduced. Am going for a heavy duty steering damper next, what do you think? I can’t think what else could be causing the problem (will try track rods before fitting the damper)
Ball joints replaced top and bottom both sides (OEM). Front pan head rod bushes (From Polly to OEM), steering bush (OEM), D bushes to anti roll bar (Orange Polly) and the problem is still there but reduced. Am going for a heavy duty steering damper next, what do you think? I can’t think what else could be causing the problem (will try track rods before fitting the damper)
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
What problem? Did I miss something?
Dorset Ranger
Active Member
- Posts
- 108
You did not! At 70 mph, tends to be a B road (pot hole, drain etc) I get violent shacking of the steering wheel and the car shakes laterally (much like a small dog with no tail does when trying to wag!)
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Try sticking to the speed limit things may improve.
It should do well over 70mph with no issues!
What are the tyres like? Try pumping them up further to something silly like 38 psi all round and see if that helps. OEM steering damper is good: heavy duty shouldn't be required. Is all the alignment good. Brake calipers and discs good?
