P38 Auto D. No interior lights

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Terry O Sullivan

Active Member
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108
Location
Cornwall
Evening. Got bits on order for the hevac screen. New radio in. got a posh new gator coming soon. Got her booked in for discs and a couple of other bits. So i have now turned my attention to the interior lights. Neither front doors work on the fob. Drivers works on the key only which occationally sets the alarm. This could be why the interior lights are activated. CL does however operate the rear door and tailgate which points to the drivers door recieving the signal. I have no power to any of the interior lights so the 3 second hold the button in also wont work.all the fuses are ok.
SO. Dont think i havnt searched before asking the questions. Just wondering where to start
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??
Thankyou


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With the car locked on the fob, but unlocked drivers door with the key, try an open the boot. If it opens you probably have a similar issue to what I did a few months back with a signal wire fault.

Wiring diagram for the drivers door. I used it in conjunction with this website. I was able to trace the fault and repair it. Although it sounds like you have a signal fault on both sides.
 

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Better getting a good quality DVM. Seems the wire from the BeCM to the A Post is a common failure point. I found a repair that must've been done over 11 years ago. And googling my symptoms found a fair few people who had similar.

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I got mine from screwfix, big feature for me is continuity buzzer so I can focus on checking wires and listening for a beep. Kewtech KF116. Not a lot of money and worked a treat.
 
Pulled the loom out for a look now. There are no breaks although there is a small amount of chafing from the trim clip brackets. I don’t think I’ve ever pulled a carpet up on a Range Rover before and found norust. BMW sure got the rustproofing right.
 
The breaks are generally inside the wire so not obviously visible, stick the DVM on either side of a wire (from BeCM to plug in A Post), rinse and repeat until you've tested all of them. Have you tested opening the boot with the car locked on the fob and unlocked on the drivers door? The boot is ground switched by the drivers door lock, so if it opens you know the ground is good through the door lock. Lock the door with the key and try the boot again, this time it shouldn't open. Assuming you have power to the lock (should be constant power to it) you know that's probably not the issue.
 
Ok. Thanks for that info. I will check the wiring morra. I currently have the door actuator out but plugged in. If I activate the lock by hand both read doors and back door lock but not always so that points to a micro switch failure in the lock. Not bothered about the pass lock at the min.
 
Marty gave advice on testing the actuator on here. It might help you diag the issues without having to needlessly replace parts.
 
Hell fire. That’s an incredible and informative discription. Not I’m utterly confuse as to being just confused. I need p38 martain to get back to me and service the aviators first. One step at a time
 
Terry O Sullivan said:
Hell fire. That’s an incredible and informative discription. Not I’m utterly confuse as to being just confused. I need p38 martain to get back to me and service the aviators first. One step at a time
Click to expand...
Oh, forgot to ask, do your electric windows still work? When my data wires broke the windows stopped functioning. If they still work you can rule out the data wires.
 
No. They are not wrapped up and working. Trying to contact Marty to rebuild my lock. I feel I need to rule this out first. Thanks again for all the help so far.
 
Terry O Sullivan said:
No. They are not wrapped up and working. Trying to contact Marty to rebuild my lock. I feel I need to rule this out first. Thanks again for all the help so far.
Click to expand...
Cool, rules out the data wires then. Marty is slow to reply as he is busy, so you'll have to hold fast for a reply. Hopefully he can put you in touch with the guy he works with to rebuild them.
 
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