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It would look very nice on your new purchase 
Pig
- Thread starter resto_d1
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Pm the details please bud and I’ll wire it overIt would look very nice on your new purchase
Won some allmakes covers on eBay - new but very old in bag for 12 quid. Don’t think I’ll ever find another original but will keep looking out.
What a difference, floor has been wire wheeled with the grinder, then hydrate 80 after a degrease. Then in was chassis black and sound deadening followed by dynax anti corrosion wax. Big dose of it!
What a difference, floor has been wire wheeled with the grinder, then hydrate 80 after a degrease. Then in was chassis black and sound deadening followed by dynax anti corrosion wax. Big dose of it!
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That looks so much better, I'll PM you
Mental isn’t it. Really that wasn’t much graft to seal it from water and to protect all the sheet metal. New gaiters and carpet make a huge difference! I’m quite excited to buff the paint at some point! It was actually green originally. I love these blues but green would’ve been cool.
Noticed the drivers door seal let’s in a little water where it’s nackered. Stole the rear door seal off my other one as have a fresh Land Rover one to go in that on the shelf. Not sure if I have a rear window seal and don’t plan or fancy doing that anytime soon. I’ll likely give it a good clean then puraflex the spilts to be honest!!
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That's what I did with the rear rubbers on mine, is it a pig of a Job to change them then?
I’ve never done a rear window but imagine it’s a bit of a dick and I’ll need to buy the window clamp thingies and rope a mate in to help. It’s only the rear one that’s bad on the pig I think.
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It's weird how they split like that, can't have been a good design or bad rubber
They’re getting quite old aren’t they. Lots of seasons to punish them. Although they’ll be 90s jap cars with perfectly good seals at this age
. Genuine seals feel such higher quality than britpart or similar also. I’ve got a genuine rear door seal in my stock and it feels really good quality. Same with defender - bought pattern door seals and they weren’t up to much then got LR ones and they were 10 times better. They’re far more expensive though
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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smart motor, responds well to some TLC.
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Mine spent it's life garaged and 13 years tucked away.They’re getting quite old aren’t they. Lots of seasons to punish them. Although they’ll be 90s jap cars with perfectly good seals at this age
Genuine seals feel such higher quality than britpart or similar also. I’ve got a genuine rear door seal in my stock and it feels really good quality. Same with defender - bought pattern door seals and they weren’t up to much then got LR ones and they were 10 times better. They’re far more expensive though
But they still split, the front one is fine though
Window switch surround was broken so I glued new pegs on it. I also polished it with a bit of g63 and a cloth just to try and bring black back. I ended up with a polished marble effect
Backs sound deadened like the front then put in some unsoiled stable mat.
Won these seat covers for tenner on eBay - brand new in bag!!!
Stole arm rest from my other as I’ll be leather cladding my other one
Backs sound deadened like the front then put in some unsoiled stable mat.
Won these seat covers for tenner on eBay - brand new in bag!!!
Stole arm rest from my other as I’ll be leather cladding my other one
Spoke too soon didn’t I! Passenger is bone dry, drivers is wet but just around the door opening. The door seal is shot but not sure it would’ve let in. Could be anything really. A pillar feels dry as does bulkheadMe being smart never to be heard in the same sentence, id had a few last night just as well I went to bed.
New carpet very swish, do they not just sook up all the water like my landys.
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Low coolant alarm led. Alarm works from a Range Rover coolant tank cap with the float sensor on. Kev let’s hope you got a spare unbroken steering shroud
Looked I aint got one but I do know where there is a container full of landy spares.
I’ll bring the cutters, you bring the vanLooked I aint got one but I do know where there is a container full of landy spares.
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No need ive already had a wee look, an for the record it was unlocked & the door was open so it would be rude not to
rifle through it.
What!!! Go on then. Money to be made from the likes of meNo need ive already had a wee look, an for the record it was unlocked & the door was open so it would be rude not to
rifle through it.
Trying to work out what’s been done here as can’t find diagram for how the fuse box is normally linked up. As far as I can remember, I only had a brown going in to the fuse box and can’t remember there being another live.
I want to wire in an aux fuse box with relays. Currently, there’s this durite voltage relay, which runs a thick red cable to the back for towing. There’s a socket for by the tow bar and also the rear lights too which I don’t get.
I don’t need any of this as if I tow I’ll use my pickup.
I don’t remember there ever being a 50amp fuse near the fuse box - it wouldn’t make sense anyway as the alternator runs 100. However, it looks like the 50amp link goes to the fuse box feed. I’m still learning with these electrics so apologies if being dense?!
I want to wire in an aux fuse box with relays. Currently, there’s this durite voltage relay, which runs a thick red cable to the back for towing. There’s a socket for by the tow bar and also the rear lights too which I don’t get.
I don’t need any of this as if I tow I’ll use my pickup.
I don’t remember there ever being a 50amp fuse near the fuse box - it wouldn’t make sense anyway as the alternator runs 100. However, it looks like the 50amp link goes to the fuse box feed. I’m still learning with these electrics so apologies if being dense?!
