Pig

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What I’m trying to work out is if this terminal is usually empty
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I’m assuming it’s usually empty and that durite loom is piggy backing into it. It also seems too convenient that LR would’ve left an empty positive though?!

I do overcomplicate it all and that’s why it confuses me so always have to stop and dumb it down.

As I would understand it, you have one brown wire to fuse box and one negative. They run several fuses and that fuse box is fit to cope with the max overall draw.
 
I’m assuming it’s usually empty and that durite loom is piggy backing into it. It also seems too convenient that LR would’ve left an empty positive though?!

I do overcomplicate it all and that’s why it confuses me so always have to stop and dumb it down.

As I would understand it, you have one brown wire to fuse box and one negative. They run several fuses and that fuse box is fit to cope with the max overall draw.

@sierrafery - sorry to keep dragging you in 😂. Could you confirm if my assumptions is correct please 🙏
 
I’m assuming it’s usually empty and that durite loom is piggy backing into it. It also seems too convenient that LR would’ve left an empty positive though?!

I do overcomplicate it all and that’s why it confuses me so always have to stop and dumb it down.

As I would understand it, you have one brown wire to fuse box and one negative. They run several fuses and that fuse box is fit to cope with the max overall draw.
Is it where they would run a permanent live to the tow socket, but as your branches off it had that relay bit put in for an extra battery.

If you don’t need it then just pull it out.

J
 
Is it where they would run a permanent live to the tow socket, but as your branches off it had that relay bit put in for an extra battery.

If you don’t need it then just pull it out.

J
That’s a fair shout. I have no experience towing and if I ever do tow I’ll use my pickup. I think it must branch off twice as one socket near rear light inside (leisure battery I assume) and then a socket for towing at the tow ball.
Those relays are 60 quid a pop!!! So pig either spent its life driving around pheasant pens changing the wire fence batteries or looking after temporary traffic light setups 😂
 
Durite box is a split charge relay for a dual battery set up. Wont allow volts back. They are handy things to have.
I use the electronic version for 24-12v set up
 
I’ll keep hold of it just couldn’t work out if the place it’s plugged is meant to have something plugged there as standard. As Marjon said, maybe it’s purposely there for rear trailer. I’m just trying to get all wiring tidied up. I’ve started building my fuse board and if I don’t need the feed into that fuse box I’ll use the cable to route to my fuse box as doubt it’ll need over 50amp. I’ve thicker cable here but not really any need. It’ll be for gauges and the low coolant alarm 👍🏻
 
The eager eyed amongst you will notice pic was originally green. Which is a bit of a shame as I do like a green d1.
The paint job is diy - a one stage product. It’s tatty in places but that’s not really too much upset - whoever did it actually didn’t do a bad job. There’s a bit of crap in it in places, bit of flake off but it’s an old Landy.

Much like old red cars from past years, it had a dusty tired, faded top layer. Without being too aggressive I gave it a once over.

Clay bar and one pass of farcela (sp?) not chasing full paint correction. I may chase it a bit further in future. I went with a light pad and lowish speeds to prevent too much thickness loss. I think I could get it beaming if i wanted as did a spot of high speed cut on bonnet and it popped.

I may be banished, but, I think im going to chequer plate the bonnet. It’s got some kind of solvent damage on the paint right where chequer plate would cover it. Also means I can throw a bags/drinks and my rifle bipod on bonnet. Anyway…

Oil pressure and temp sensor gauges have turned up, I’ve half built aux fuse box and the gauges and parrot phone thing will be going in a mud pod above stereo. 2 in one as it will cover holes in dash
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