P38 2.5DSE starting problems

Latest update folks...
Well I checked the inertia switch, which was fine, fuse and relay was fine too. Power coming into the relay, but pump not getting/using any. I looked for an access hatch under the rear seats but couldnt find one, carpet had no holes in it anyway, is there one???

Didnt want to drop the tank incase it wasnt the problem. Tried the solenoid on the FIP, it had juice and sounded like it was working. I tried taking the pipe off the outlet side of the fuel filter, putting a funnel in, and gravity feeding some diesel in, but still no joy. Also tried cracking off the injectors and bleeding them incase I had a load of air in the system, but still nothing.

Phoned a couple of local LR specialist garages, asking them about the BECM that may need re-setting but both said that if I didnt have some text on the information panel saying "Engine Imobilised" then it should be fine and wont need resetting.

So, using my hybrid I decided to tow it to one of the local specialists, Durham 4-whel drive in Bowburn, who said he will plug it into the diagnostic system for £45 and tell me whats up with it tomorrow. Will see what happens tomorrow, and depending on whats wrong/how much it will cost for them to put right, I will either get them to do it, or do the work myself.

Will keep you informed
Kind regards
Jonathan

I used to work with batteries & diesels, if a cell bubbles when cranking, its 'gassing'- read knackered!! Usually an end cell, but not always.
there is a glowplug/timer next to the engine ECU behind the battery, this supplies power to the glowplugs for a few seconds as well as sending the signal to the dash-light, connect a meter to a glow plug & ground(engine block) & get someone to switch on the ign, but dont try & start, you should get a reading for a few seconds until the timer cuts off, if it quiet you can also hear it 'click' off from the timer.
If NO voltage reading, then the timer/relay is duff, mine was around £60 or so, its under the long plastic cover behind the battery, next to the ECU which simply lifts out to gain access.
I also found 5 of my glowplugs were down, hence the poor starting, starts on the button now!!

Cheers for the info mate, I cannot remember whichone was gassing, but as you say its pretty shot.

Garage phoned me today, as suspected, the in tank pump is knackered, and also, when they were doing their tests, the starter motor packed in!!!

They did say however, that pot No.6 was down on compression, but that was just before the starter packed in, so hopefully it was a dodgy reading due to not being turned over quick enough.

When I was driving her, she ran fine, sweet, nothing untoward and no overheating, so fingers crossed!!!

With regards to the in tank pump. On ebay, the prices vary from £78ish to £140!! What is the difference in them, which have people bought on here etc...

Kind regards
Jonathan

Just to keep you all informed. Got my car back from the garage today and she is great.

Replaced the in-tank pump as was knackered, and also the starter motor. I had tightened the glow plugs too tight and had knackered them so new ones fitted. The wiring to the glow plugs was in a bad way and a PO had butchered it, so that was replaced. Also the glowplug timing unit?? was replaced as that kept on blowing fuses, and the +ve wire from the battery to the ECU control box thingy behind the battery was made good as it wasnt very clever. Lastly a new fuel line from filter to FIP as old one the connection at the filter end was knackered and letting in air.

The result is its cost me about £500 all in, but she turns over fast and fires up almost instantaneously, so very pleased.

Thank you all for the advise, help and comments you have offered, no doubt I will be posting again when something else plays up

Jonathan