Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 44,888
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- Near Poitiers SW France
95C is within the normal running temperature range,I just cant remember the car being a bugger to achieve 50mph without pedal to the metal?
and isnt 95 celsius pretty hot for the car, when its 2 degrees outside?? Even with new radiator (the thin, modern core nissens) and viscousfan, and waterpump? (car is actually quieter on idle due to the new viscous)
EDIT REGARDING THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^
Previous temps were 95-96 and rising whilst heater matrix blasting full hot air, at 50MPH.
9 ambient (before rad, and viscous fan change)
Now temps are around 95 at cruising at 50mph (with heater matrix on highest heat setting, but fan only on 1. Ambient temp 2 celsius.
Note, this was my first run after bleeding the car.
It seems like whenever i brake, and before/mid cornering to drive off the main road the gauge spits up.
But the gauge does stay at red light at 50mp/h still, while nanocom reads 95-96 or heck even 88...
Question is, bad contact or duff sensor? I will investigate this tmw/ weekend, pulling intake off.
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Seems like i also get vibrations at 3000rpm when i try to reach 50mph....
The car have great take offs (for the engine and car we are speaking off...). Rpms goes fast up, but when i reach 60KM/H (37mph) (i think this is the ISH 50/50 should the gearbox gear up to 4th gear moment?
Now, the car has sat for a time, and i do know i have a slightly overfilled gearbox oil (previous owner actually overfilled)
I assume it might just be the gear oil which has taken early christmass and has gotten lazy?
Car basically feels like a huge lump of turd at the moment the 4th gear previously has enganged for me.
No issues getting up to 37mph.
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I took 1 minute reading rave just now,
It seems that if my engine temperature rises, the FIP delivers a less quantity of diesel, so i assume my car is litterually choking, or getting to less diesel? This should also, if im not wrong cause a small vibration? (choking on fuel)
The question now is if FIP/fuel system goes by the gauge sensor or the ECM?
We probably all know from before, that cold start gives richer fuel mixture and hotter means less fuel (which is a bummer to people who need to re-time their FIP/mount a hotstart kit!)
, but is this is only effected on startup, or running??
My lift pump is dead, by the way..
Nanocom volts are always lower than battery volts due to losses in the wiring.
At the battery your should have 14.7 volts engine running and no less then 12.6 volts an hour after turning off.
Less fuel does not = "choking on fuel" which would be the case with too much fuel. What is the modulation with the engine at 95C?
I think your gauge sensor is duff.
Over filled box on an auto is detrimental, should be checked engine cold and idling after shifting slowly through all gear positions.