what do you mean? I have more engine related problems?
well i do have some oil in my intake manifold
worst at cylinder closest the firewall
P38 2.5DSE 96/97 Water pump
- Thread starter synchro
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
what do you mean? I have more engine related problems?
well i do have some oil in my intake manifold
worst at cylinder closest the firewall
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,393
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
<insert thread title>
^^^
It did increase my power and quieten it down but I had already done a lot to the engine previously and have a dodgy FIP. Even though it was needed was one of the last things I did.
^^^
It did increase my power and quieten it down but I had already done a lot to the engine previously and have a dodgy FIP. Even though it was needed was one of the last things I did.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,393
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5dt-fip-static-timing-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/
Is not too bad when you are familiar
Is not too bad when you are familiar
<insert thread title>
^^^
It did increase my power and quieten it down but I had already done a lot to the engine previously and have a dodgy FIP. Even though it was needed was one of the last things I did.
Am i wrong in saying, that as my car is out of timing it will work harder to achieve my "speed goals" ?
Could it be something with this which makes my car run sligthly hotter aswell?
The temp gauge, idk what to do with that no more, i am not an electrician. I just find it all odd. I took on and off the long lights 4 times and the lamp went up and down to red 4 times
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,393
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Odd indeed. I think either there’s a wiring issue or that gauge sensor you put in is fubar. Maybe it’s not earthing through the head properly, I don’t know without seeing it myself.
It will run better with the static set although I shouldnt think yours is as far out as mine was if it’s not cutting out on you for no apparent reason.
It will run better with the static set although I shouldnt think yours is as far out as mine was if it’s not cutting out on you for no apparent reason.
The only thing i can recall doing before making the gauge go bananas, was
1: Intake off, 1 glowplug off, glowplug on. (to test if it works, and yes)
2: Heater matrix O rings
3: Using nanocom to put my car into EARLY EDC, rendering my car useless for 1 week because i didnt find out its suppose to be late EDC.
4: Forcing the gauge to go to red in nanocom. Its a thing, apparently. Maybe when i forced it, the gauge motor thingy said goodnight? dunno?
5: Both coolant sensor connectors on and off.
The gauge seems to work fine, untill it gets up to operating temp and when the car starts to move.
1: Intake off, 1 glowplug off, glowplug on. (to test if it works, and yes)
2: Heater matrix O rings
3: Using nanocom to put my car into EARLY EDC, rendering my car useless for 1 week because i didnt find out its suppose to be late EDC.
4: Forcing the gauge to go to red in nanocom. Its a thing, apparently. Maybe when i forced it, the gauge motor thingy said goodnight? dunno?
5: Both coolant sensor connectors on and off.
The gauge seems to work fine, untill it gets up to operating temp and when the car starts to move.
But now as i changed the waterpump and thermostat i did take off the earth cable from the head.
As the coolant return pipe o ring leaked, i had to take the earth cable off, due to it being mounted on the return pipe bracket. I did however clean the connection on it.
I also noticed greenish color on both the negative, and positive cable. But this is normal for copper wires isnt it? to turn little greenish?
As the coolant return pipe o ring leaked, i had to take the earth cable off, due to it being mounted on the return pipe bracket. I did however clean the connection on it.
I also noticed greenish color on both the negative, and positive cable. But this is normal for copper wires isnt it? to turn little greenish?
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
It has been hard started for over a year i think. Probably even two.
I fitted a hot start kit as a new owner. One of the first thing i did actually
But as @RangeRoller dt describes he had a lack of power and it was abit loud.
I have all that.
My car didnt vibrate at idle before when i got it. Then slowly, and slowly getting more, same with engine noise.
Sounds like a semitruck picking up speed, i guess people think there is a huge, huge engine inside the car because its that noisy, bur its just the little cute teddybear M51
Hard to say without listening but I don't like the sound of that. I see you have oil in the intake manifold. I don't like the sound of that either.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I'd make sure all wires are clean. There's a trick to clean old wires using salt and spirit vinegar or similar. See YouTube!
I really don't like it either
I've heard of diesel runaways. Scary things.
I've flushed the intercooler with diesel. Also cleaned intake once past month.
Engine otherwise sounds healthy at idle! even another P38 owner said my engine were sounding smooth..
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
That's more positive then. On the manual the DMF can fail and make it noisy butvyours is an auto iirc.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,888
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Way too high. Adjusting the FIP is easy with my method but can only be done if you have diagnostics, as you have Nanocom, no problem.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,888
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Flushing the intercooler with diesel will do very little, use Acetone, leave it to soak over night. Make sure it's fully dried out before refitting preferably with an air line. You may be surprised at the amount of gunk that comes out.
what was your method? I only seen Rangerollers method. Is it the same?
In my understanding there are several ways, a hammer way and a gauge precision way?
Thank you all for helping me, very appriciated
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,888
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
I'll PM you with details later. It's fairly precise, no hammers involved just a bit of dismantling.what was your method? I only seen Rangerollers method. Is it the same?
In my understanding there are several ways, a hammer way and a gauge precision way?
Thank you all for helping me, very appriciated
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,393
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
My way uses hammers
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,888
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Each to their own, I prefer accuracyMy way uses hammers
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,393
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Inaccurate would mean it didn’t work. Was good enough for RAVE
Okay, so just a small update, i am going to remove the instrument cluster and check if the wires are ok, i got a suggestion that as the car heats up the solders might get bad, and as this issue occurs when it does get heaten up, so i am going to check the solders behind the instrument cluster. I do not know how it looks back there.
Also from others sayings, things on their speedo has malfunctioned, they've had some irring on the connectors, and fixed it by cleaning them
Sounds logical, as i've had signs of irrings in other contacts in the interior.
Also from others sayings, things on their speedo has malfunctioned, they've had some irring on the connectors, and fixed it by cleaning them
Sounds logical, as i've had signs of irrings in other contacts in the interior.
- Posts
- 4,653
- Location
- Rotherham
Datatek was it you who did a post some time back about modulation at different temperatures? Did you make a chart and if so is it on this site to have a look at please.Each to their own, I prefer accuracy
