P38 2.5DSE 96/97 Water pump

I prefer to keep a distance from me and the hot rad. The plastic on top can crack and I remember what happened to mark.

tomcat59alan said:

That's assuming the a/c fans actually work.

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i think i heard them on before in the summer when my ac partially worked

tomcat59alan said:

That's assuming the a/c fans actually work.

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They work very well thanks. Many modern cars large & small use electric cooling, it's more efficient and easier to meet emissions standards.

tomcat59alan said:

Nice one, personally I prefer to keep everything standard. at least you'll be able to take the top of the radiator/ seat off to see where the pipe should fit.

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+1. More knowledgeable men than me designed it.

The viscous will chew paper on startup and roar. As the engines warms to normal engine temperature it will quieten and can be stopped with a newspaper - if it cannot be stopped it is seized. If the temperature starts to climb towards the red it will start to roar again and should shred a newspaper until it quietens down again. If it doesn't lock up before the red it is duff.

Grrrrrr said:

+1. More knowledgeable men than me designed it.

The viscous will chew paper on startup and roar. As the engines warms to normal engine temperature it will quieten and can be stopped with a newspaper - if it cannot be stopped it is seized. If the temperature starts to climb towards the red it will start to roar again and should shred a newspaper until it quietens down again. If it doesn't lock up before the red it is duff.

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well then my viscous is definetly seized, as when i did the newspaper test it didnt stop or slow down. didnt chew it either tho... maybe i rolled it up to much. The engine was at normal temperature too,

Datatek said:

They work very well thanks. Many modern cars large & small use electric cooling, it's more efficient and easier to meet emissions standards.

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You've got the wrong end of the stick,I meant if @synchro's fans physically work as so much has been worn out on his motor.

WELL, theres been progress, and abit disapointment
One of the botton tabs of the new radiator is broken off! Couldnt even find it in the package it came delivered in...

Is that something crucial? I mean, both upper slides are good, and i got the one tab into its radiator mount..
And yeah, the rad is abit thinner than the original one.. however doesnt botter me to muuchy.. (hopefully not in future towings)

My brain thinks its acceptable, is it?

On the other hand, i confirmed the fan was seized.
It was dirty. I tried to rotate the valve screw thingy in the middle. Nope, stuck!

Does that mean my idle vibrations might dissapear?

anyhow, after a few hits with a hammer i got it unstuck but yeah i destroyed the **** out of it It was time for a new one!

Got the new viscous fan(France-Norway in 17hours DHL)! I ordered a Mahle but got a HELLA brand. Apparently the same after some googling. Gonna fill the car up with coolant and take a spin and hopefully my new radiator wont leak or explode

then i gotta change to winter tires, ugh. Started to snow abit today
Bout to do burnouts with my p38 in the snow

synchro said:

Got the new viscous fan(France-Norway in 17hours DHL)! I ordered a Mahle but got a HELLA brand. Apparently the same after some googling. Gonna fill the car up with coolant and take a spin and hopefully my new radiator wont leak or explode

then i gotta change to winter tires, ugh. Started to snow abit today
Bout to do burnouts with my p38 in the snow

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Brand names mean very little these days, probably made in China

This is inside the new radiator. Non thermostat side. Got a baffle! You can also see the bleed pipe at top

synchro said:

This is inside the new radiator. Non thermostat side. Got a baffle! You can also see the bleed pipe at top

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There is actually a fair bit of flow across the top of the RAD rather than going the long route via the cooling core

synchro said:

This is inside the new radiator. Non thermostat side. Got a baffle! You can also see the bleed pipe at top

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So don't sit on the fecker. looks like the pipe doesn't exit at the "bleed pipe" so if you can lift the pipe out of the water level it may be ok as a spare.

tomcat59alan said:

So don't sit on the fecker. looks like the pipe doesn't exit at the "bleed pipe" so if you can lift the pipe out of the water level it may be ok as a spare.

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this was the non thermostat side. On thermostat side where my old rads pipe was fallen down, this new one were indeed clipped up on the roof, exiting the bleed pipe.

my temps look good, gauge, not..

Which sensor was the correct one for the gauge? And will a red temp gauge throw the car into limp mode? Bcus my car almost wont reach 50mph if i dont have more than 3k rpm…

synchro said:

this was the non thermostat side. On thermostat side where my old rads pipe was fallen down, this new one were indeed clipped up on the roof, exiting the bleed pipe.

my temps look good, gauge, not..

Which sensor was the correct one for the gauge? And will a red temp gauge throw the car into limp mode? Bcus my car almost wont reach 50mph if i dont have more than 3k rpm…

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I don't think the gauge sensor will send it into limp mode, that is done from the EDC sensor.

synchro said:

this was the non thermostat side. On thermostat side where my old rads pipe was fallen down, this new one were indeed clipped up on the roof, exiting the bleed pipe.

my temps look good, gauge, not..

Which sensor was the correct one for the gauge? And will a red temp gauge throw the car into limp mode? Bcus my car almost wont reach 50mph if i dont have more than 3k rpm…

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You do like to throw us curved balls, having a manual gearbox never had limp mode so I can't comment ,and no need for crude asides.

Im just so confused.
Could it be the alternator throwing voltage spikes while im driving?

i have no faults in EDC.

nanocom claims i have 11.8volt battery with ignition on (stage before turning it on), engine off. I read 12.4 with a multimeter (right after a 10km drive)

i must take off the air intake i suppose to take a look on the temp sensor.. yikes..

Nanocom seems to get the battery volts wrong on my GEMS as well. Can't remember if reads high or low though, but wrong on every screen with battery volts.

I just cant remember the car being a bugger to achieve 50mph without pedal to the metal?
and isnt 95 celsius pretty hot for the car, when its 2 degrees outside?? Even with new radiator (the thin, modern core nissens) and viscousfan, and waterpump? (car is actually quieter on idle due to the new viscous)

EDIT REGARDING THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^

Previous temps were 95-96 and rising whilst heater matrix blasting full hot air, at 50MPH.
9 ambient (before rad, and viscous fan change)

Now temps are around 95 at cruising at 50mph (with heater matrix on highest heat setting, but fan only on 1. Ambient temp 2 celsius.

Note, this was my first run after bleeding the car.

It seems like whenever i brake, and before/mid cornering to drive off the main road the gauge spits up.
But the gauge does stay at red light at 50mp/h still, while nanocom reads 95-96 or heck even 88...

Question is, bad contact or duff sensor? I will investigate this tmw/ weekend, pulling intake off.
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Seems like i also get vibrations at 3000rpm when i try to reach 50mph....

The car have great take offs (for the engine and car we are speaking off...). Rpms goes fast up, but when i reach 60KM/H (37mph) (i think this is the ISH 50/50 should the gearbox gear up to 4th gear moment?

Now, the car has sat for a time, and i do know i have a slightly overfilled gearbox oil (previous owner actually overfilled)

I assume it might just be the gear oil which has taken early christmass and has gotten lazy?
Car basically feels like a huge lump of turd at the moment the 4th gear previously has enganged for me.

No issues getting up to 37mph.


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I took 1 minute reading rave just now,

It seems that if my engine temperature rises, the FIP delivers a less quantity of diesel, so i assume my car is litterually choking, or getting to less diesel? This should also, if im not wrong cause a small vibration? (choking on fuel)
The question now is if FIP/fuel system goes by the gauge sensor or the ECM?

We probably all know from before, that cold start gives richer fuel mixture and hotter means less fuel (which is a bummer to people who need to re-time their FIP/mount a hotstart kit!)

, but is this is only effected on startup, or running??

My lift pump is dead, by the way..

FIP uses ECM not guage.

Dead lift pump may affect performance. Datatek has some numbers on working temperature. Next time I am on my PC I will see what my traces say but I would think 90 - 95C is correct.