P38 2.5 DSE Non starter. 1999.. Plus No Reverse..

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BrenK said:
Hmmm, whilst I had the inlet manifold off (again!!) had a closer look at injector No4. I thought it had red heat shield on it.......turns out it’s red electrical tape! Guessing someone’s “pinched” it in between manifold and block at some point. Wires definitely been severely squashed, but couldn’t see any obvious breaks.
Is there a way to test what signal it’s getting/sending?
Assume if it’s giving poor signals it will affect the fueling? Also as ABS light is on would that put it into some sort of limp mode?
(Do i need a different lead to get Nanocom to communicate with Wabco D?
Cheers
Click to expand...
The ABS light will not put it into limp mode but an ABS fault could just possibly be applying the brakes via traction control. The signal from the needle lift sensor can be checked with Nanocom or an oscilloscope.
 
Datatek said:
The ABS light will not put it into limp mode but an ABS fault could just possibly be applying the brakes via traction control. The signal from the needle lift sensor can be checked with Nanocom or an oscilloscope.
Click to expand...
Either I need a different lead for the Nanocom or there is an issue with the ABS Ecu as it won’t let be communicate with it to check/clear any faults.

How do I check needle lift on Nanocom, please?
 
Needle lift (rpm) is under EDC menu.

I’m pretty sure I have read that early nanocoms were glitchy with needle lift unless they are updated? Not necessarily your problem but a thought.

Be very careful with inj4, it’s wires and connector. The wire can be repaired the connector can be cleaned up gently, the sensor however can only be replaced as whole injector.
They are not cheap - always worth trying to fix BUT if it’s not broke don’t touch it, don’t even smile at it ;)
 
Right... had another go tonight. After I realised when it said “needle rpm” it was referring to lift needle.

Firstly, bizarrely it communicated with Wabco D tonight, said there were no faults though? So why does light not go out ?

Will try and post a few (very poor) videos of what it Nanocom displays at tick over from cold.
 
How do I upload a video? Clicked on upload button. Hit choose file. Clicked on video, it says compressing video then goes back to choose file?
Thanks.
 
Will add videos if can work out how.

But what I was trying to show was that at tick over in Park if you use the throttle the revs rise, throttle potentiometer shows movement, engine speed goes up etc.

Then put it in gear, (looked in gear box inputs to check it was registering gears ok. Push foot to flaw, potentiometer shows 98% but engine speed and rpm stay static ?

Turned engine off. Turned on again, select reverse and away I goes???
Just don’t get it, so frustrating
 
BrenK said:
Will add videos if can work out how.

But what I was trying to show was that at tick over in Park if you use the throttle the revs rise, throttle potentiometer shows movement, engine speed goes up etc.

Then put it in gear, (looked in gear box inputs to check it was registering gears ok. Push foot to flaw, potentiometer shows 98% but engine speed and rpm stay static ?

Turned engine off. Turned on again, select reverse and away I goes???
Just don’t get it, so frustrating
Click to expand...


Need someone with an auto box (mine's manual) but I'd guess if gearbox doesn't know engine speed then it will struggle.

Time to check gearbox ECU, I guess. Or connectors.
 
ABS module. Some modules will work engine off or on (EAS) some only off and some only on. You need to read the manual or trial and error. Good as the Nano is it is an Arduino or some such running Linux so sometimes it takes a second go. WABCO C won't communicate above 5mph. Not sure about D. D is cars 99 onwards.
 
BrenK said:
Hmmm, whilst I had the inlet manifold off (again!!) had a closer look at injector No4. I thought it had red heat shield on it.......turns out it’s red electrical tape! Guessing someone’s “pinched” it in between manifold and block at some point. Wires definitely been severely squashed, but couldn’t see any obvious breaks.
Is there a way to test what signal it’s getting/sending?
Assume if it’s giving poor signals it will affect the fueling? Also as ABS light is on would that put it into some sort of limp mode?
(Do i need a different lead to get Nanocom to communicate with Wabco D?
Cheers
Click to expand...

Number four injector has nothing to do with fuelling it is for timing purposes. Although a duff one will cause limp mode at around mid throttle.
 
Big thanks to Mr Wammers, for helping me with settings etc , car is finally drive able. Much appreciated thank you.

Still think it’s a bit slow tho! 90’with foot buried in carpet. And doesn’t exactly push you back in the seat when pulling away, haha. Anyone any ideas, please?
Then just the ABS to sort.......then might actually get round to using it...
 
Wammers is the guru.

Mine will not only do 90mph but it will stay there except on bigger hills on the autobahn. Mine's a manual box.

Back to the beginning, I guess. Air, fuel, compression.

Have you checked the compression across the cylinders?

Air. Flush intercooler, make sure all pipes are solid and tight and not delaminating inside. Turbo OK? Waste gate clear to move? What inlet pressure have you got? Maybe adjust waste gate a half turn? MAP pipe all good?

Fuel. Lift pump as per Wammers How To. Fuel filter good? FIP OK? Not sure how to test that but my modulation was high when mine was worn and I kept stalling when hot and approaching junctions. #4 injector all working? Other injectors spraying a nice mist?
 
BrenK said:
Big thanks to Mr Wammers, for helping me with settings etc , car is finally drive able. Much appreciated thank you.

Still think it’s a bit slow tho! 90’with foot buried in carpet. And doesn’t exactly push you back in the seat when pulling away, haha. Anyone any ideas, please?
Then just the ABS to sort.......then might actually get round to using it...
Click to expand...
Depending which way the wind is blowing, about 90 mph is about right for the auto against the wind, tops that with a tail wind.. The car weighs 2.250 kilos, they are not known for rapid acceleration but feel good after driving a Daihatsu 4 Track or a Hyundai Galloper:rolleyes::D:D:D
 
Datatek said:
Depending which way the wind is blowing, about 90 mph is about right for the auto against the wind, tops that with a tail wind.. The car weighs 2.250 kilos, they are not known for rapid acceleration but feel good after driving a Daihatsu 4 Track or a Hyundai Galloper:rolleyes::D:D:D
Click to expand...

Really?

Guess 4th isn't quite as long in the auto and still some loses even with the torque converter locked up?
 
Datatek said:
Depending which way the wind is blowing
Click to expand...

Very true :D

Mine is manual also so probably gear ratios. It will throw out more power if you get more air/fuel in it. Don’t go mad with turbo 10psi only.
Auto box benefits from a power-box I have been led to believe.

If I start to lose power it’s because FIP is too hot or my spills are slightly leaking. Or on a steep hill at speed. Mine was slow when I had it, but they will shift after bit of maintenance. Tomcat assures me his will rip tyres, but he is a fitter/mech engineer or something knows his stuff.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Very true :D

Mine is manual also so probably gear ratios. It will throw out more power if you get more air/fuel in it. Don’t go mad with turbo 10psi only.
Auto box benefits from a power-box I have been led to believe.

If I start to lose power it’s because FIP is too hot or my spills are slightly leaking. Or on a steep hill at speed. Mine was slow when I had it, but they will shift after bit of maintenance. Tomcat assures me his will rip tyres, but he is a fitter/mech engineer or something knows his stuff.
Click to expand...
A power box will over time eat the gearbox as the torque reduction strategy needed for gear shifts is negated. That's why I removed the power box from mine and will soon have to change the gearbox.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Ah makes sense from what you’ve said previously. Autos seem high maintenance.

You think of selling power box? :)
Click to expand...
Sold it years ago:D Quite happy with the standard performance after my previous 4 x 4's
Looked after, auto's are reasonably low maintenance but when people believe ZF's sealed for life statement, they can give trouble. The HP22 is IMO a bit under rated for the diesel I will be fitting an HP24. At least they do not have clutch and DMF failures.:p
 
I do read a lot of old threads.

I never expected any performance from day1.
143000m on standard is nothing to be ashamed of if well maintained. Mine is starting to get quick and there is much more I can improve on without a box/chip yet
 
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