Other Oscilloscopes

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backinblack said:
@gstuart Last night I figured for the sake of £90 if it stops me buying parts because I think it may be faulty it's worth a punt. It should arrive Tuesday next week so I'll let you know :D
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wondered if u was able to resist, lol

that’s great and would u be so kind to let me know what u think , as the feedback would be extremely grateful plse

many thks and will watch this space with earnest
 
backinblack said:
@gstuart Last night I figured for the sake of £90 if it stops me buying parts because I think it may be faulty it's worth a punt. It should arrive Tuesday next week so I'll let you know :D
Click to expand...


Did you get the Hantek one? if so have you got a link to the 90 quid version?

Ta
 
@lynall , just thought mate, would u also mind please sharing some screenshots etc or ur findings plse

also going to get a breakout box to keep life easier, seeing there not very expensive , ones I’ve looked at I see have voltage readings

will indeed get some data measurements to then be able to build up like a database to make life easier when errors occur

yes I know, I need to get out more , lol

Here’s some of the figures I’ve noted so far

Pins 4 & 5 are grounds
pin 16 gives u ur battery voltage , ie 12.6Vdc

can test the grounds , by going between
Pin 16-4
pins 16-5

Which should read the battery 12.6 Vdc



Pin 6 to ground , should have around 2.7 Vdc
Pin 14 to ground , should have around 2.3 Vdc

From what I’ve also read pin 6 and pin 14 should add up to 5 Vdc

If pins 6 or 14 are zero Volts means it’s grounded

PIN 3 and 11 are ur medium canbus, should give 60 ohms ,
PIN 6 and PIN 14 are ur high canbus Should also give 60 ohms

On each end of the medium and high canbus are 120ohm resisters, therefore with the battery disconnected and using a multimeter they should read 60ohms,

pin 9 is ABS module

On the canbus , some modules are in the loops , others are spurred off of it

Can’t remove modules to see which one is causing an error within the canbus

hope u haven’t nodded off and that it may be of use
 
Curious about one thing if I may plse

alas if u have an error within the canbus after testing ohms, ie if u get 120 ohms which indeed means a module within that loop is faulty for one reason or another

This is what I’m wondering , with an ohms canbus error , diagnostics will refuse to communicate , so if u can using diagnostics to select each ecu to see which one u can communicate with, if the one u can’t connect with is the one with the error

I might be totally barking up the wrong tress, is just a thought and know u guys are more knowledgeable than myself

many thks
 
gstuart said:
On each end of the medium and high canbus are 120ohm resisters, therefore with the battery disconnected and using a multimeter they should read 60ohms,
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Resistance measurements on CAN-bus are valid only of both ends are unplugged
backinblack said:
@gstuart I've just replaced the 2 front height sensors so I'll start by playing with the old ones. Gonna hook up a 5v usb power pack to simulate the cars ecu.
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The D3 height sensors are the same with D2 ones, passive hall type, i can't see the ulitity of an oscilloscope for that a simple multimeter is enough
 
sierrafery said:
Resistance measurements on CAN-bus are valid only of both ends are unplugged
The D3 height sensors are the same with D2 ones, passive hall type, i can't see the ulitity of an oscilloscope for that a simple multimeter is enough
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hi buddy



apologises as I know ur extremely knowledgeable so please excuse me if somethings I say don’t make sense

On the D3 in the hi canbus there’s a 120ohms resister in the instrument panel and ABS , using a multimeter can get a 60ohms reading using a multimeter with none of the modules removed via

surely u wouldn’t get the 60ohms if u remove both modules that contain the resisters, or am I reading ur question wrong


Ref the height sensors , what test Plse using a multimeter would pick up the same error that an oscilloscope would plse

many thks as always as do like to learn new things And don’t mean that sarcastically

ie

 
Last edited:
It's about analog voltage output so multimeter would show fluctuating not constant voltage against ground on the sensor's output at that position of the sensor's arm where the oscilloscope shown those spikes cos it was an almost 2V amplitude...though i admit that with oscilloscope is nicer but my point was that for this particular case an oscilloscope is not compulsory

about the CAN-bus AFAIK the resistors are part of the harness not in the ECUs but i might be wrong here as i didnt work on a D3 myself my statement was valid more for continuity checks, sorry if i confused you
 
sierrafery said:
It's about analog voltage output so multimeter would show fluctuating not constant voltage against ground on the sensor's output at that position of the sensor's arm where the oscilloscope shown those spikes cos it was an almost 2V amplitude...though i admit that with oscilloscope is nicer but my point was that for this particular case an oscilloscope is not compulsory

about the CAN-bus AFAIK the resistors are part of the harness not in the ECUs but i might be wrong here as i didnt work on a D3 myself my statement was valid more for continuity checks, sorry if i confused you
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bless and very grateful and no worries I get confused easily, lol

Makes alot of sense ref meter vs oscilloscope, thk u

Had looked on the wiring diagrams ref the ohms, so that makes sense ref the loom and of course understand different vehicles can use alternative designs

once again very grateful and many thks

2A354F57-3D32-4662-B0EB-1021C7A1F41A.png
AC6B5330-A7BB-484F-92AF-6BC7CE4DB086.png
 
On the trucks the resisitors are part of the ecu/components in the circuit, x number of components = y ohms.
I would say simple test is with one part unplugged the resistance shoud change? not had to do it myself, I can remember on a scania course (uttter rubbish and total waste of time!) there was a place in the main fuseboard you could break into the can networks.

The few can errors I have dealt with were plain old fashioned wire breaks/damage, and the fault simply stated the diag laptop would not talk to said component, gearbox in the last case.

What you have to remember is one fault can screw up several systems, ie wheel speed sensor error fault will bring up AEBS fault plus gearbox fault, and various others, stuff is to linked into other systems, in my mind if it does not stop the vehilce rolling then it should only mess with itself, and not the whole machine.

Look closely at the blue wire on the left, and the twisted CAN pair next to it, then over to the right yel/blu CAN twisted pair you can see the verdigras on the blue one, Iirc there were abiut 10 or so damaged bits of wire in this oen short section.

Screen Shot 2020-05-24 at 17.21.28.png
 
@gstuart EDIT: Height sensor testing.

Well it arrived and I managed to have a little play with it. First thing I had to update the driver for Windows 7 as it kept crashing the PC but seems ok now. Hooked up a 5v supply from a USB charger and managed to get a good reading before all my botched up connections fell apart. This is from the good one (front right), just got permanent 5v from the bad one but the connections may be different so I need to get under her and have a look. My fault code was showing front left faulty so looks conclusive.

Good sensor.JPG
 
backinblack said:
@gstuart EDIT: Height sensor testing.

Well it arrived and I managed to have a little play with it. First thing I had to update the driver for Windows 7 as it kept crashing the PC but seems ok now. Hooked up a 5v supply from a USB charger and managed to get a good reading before all my botched up connections fell apart. This is from the good one (front right), just got permanent 5v from the bad one but the connections may be different so I need to get under her and have a look. My fault code was showing front left faulty so looks conclusive.

View attachment 210964
Click to expand...

hiya

bless u and thks so much for the feedback , think u can get new connectors with a short supply of cable already connected for the height sensors , so u can solder the new wires in, particularly if the ends of the wires are brittle and u need to cut them back abit

if u get chance to look at any of the other presets that would be awesome plse

thks once again

Ps, if u need new connectors etc , I’ll try and hunt them down for u
 
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