Dr_evil
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I flicked all the switches trying to find the headlight ones in the dark and nothing came on on the dash!
New product, market research....
- Thread starter cowasaki
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I flicked all the switches trying to find the headlight ones in the dark and nothing came on on the dash!
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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I have had three series 62-80 and all had dash lights. The separate switching was still around in 1989, I always have them switched off on the country roads.
MGBGTV8
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There should be a three pole switch on the dash for the lights (off / side / head) The main beam / dip on an S2A is a foot switch. It's a big silver button about the size of a plum fitted to the bulkhead next to the clutch pedal. On S3 the hi/low beam is on the indicator stalk IIRC?
There will be an additional two position switch on the dash to activate the interior panel lights. It won't do anything if you don't have at least side lights switched on, however.
Dr_evil
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Had all the lights on, theres nothing in the footwell its on the stalk for dip as its been replaced at some point
MGBGTV8
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Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
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Oh, how I miss foot-operated dip switches!
Sigh.
Sigh.
Made for bikes but could probably be adapted quite easily Yellow Box
cowasaki
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Basically that is exactly what I had envisioned right down to the DIP switch! That would possibly work on the landrover I would think. Still, mines going to be less than half that price (probably)
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Spunka
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I think its a good idea
Id rather have a working accurate speedo in the dash board than some ****y chinese gizmo stuck somwhere
Having a accurate speedo will also clock up correct millage on your trip meter
1. how do you calibrate it
2. is it mounted internally out of the mud and wet
Sorry not in the market, mines an old knack on a twitchy cable but good luck
Id rather have a working accurate speedo in the dash board than some ****y chinese gizmo stuck somwhere
Having a accurate speedo will also clock up correct millage on your trip meter
1. how do you calibrate it
2. is it mounted internally out of the mud and wet
Sorry not in the market, mines an old knack on a twitchy cable but good luck
cowasaki
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There are two ways I can think of to calibrate it which spring to mind.
(a) - Locate a measured mile, these are placed all over the place for police/taxi etc to calibrate their equipment. Drive to beginning of the measured mile and press button. Drive to end and press button. Device counts the number of pulses in an actual mile and uses this figure to calibrate the frequency modifier.
(b) - Have a selection of DIP switches say 8.... DIP 0 sets MPH or KPH for the actual speedo, DIP 1 sets MPH or KPH for what you want to see, DIP 2 sets - or +, DIP 3-7 (5 switches) gives 32 different values so 16% in steps of 0.5% or have 13 DIP switches and have 8 for the setting giving 256 giving 25.6% in steps of 0.1%
(c) - Allow either (a) or (b)
My choice would be (a) with .....
The box could sit behind the dash in the clean and dry with a 2.5mm jack socket on it to act as a socket for the calibrate switch. You can buy a switch on a lead with a 2.5mm plug on the end for under £3 RS-60E3 Shutter Release Remote for Canon Rebel XT XTi XS XSi EOS 1000D 500D UK | eBay which you could use to start and stop the calibration then unplug it once calibrated. The device would just be a tiny black box with 4 wires red(+), black(-), yellow(in) and green(out) just cut the wire from the transducer and attach the end going to the transducer to in and the other end to out plus red and black and away you go....... Plus maybe a LED which would flash for a second when connected to power then stay on whilst calibrating OR a 5th wire which could connect to one of the unused warning lights (or both).
.
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easye1
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got a brand new one in a biscuit tin given to me many years ago, along with double contact single filament bulbs, and a selection of old styled headlight bulbs with the little d cut out for location.
propper bygone era stuff...
not fecking use to me at all, but kept for old times sake
easye1
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see your point, but my non chinese gizmo is regulated by any 3 sattelittes at any one time, so seems quite accurite straight out of the box/packet/sock draw whatever- checked my standard discos speedo@30mph. then 40mph, then 50mph,
seems is near correct @30, 3 mph out @40 and a bit more at 50mph.
as I dont go above 60mph maybe 65 mph speedo reading, I`m more Interested in keeping below the speed limits for our wonderful speed cameras and soon going live average speed cams over a measured distance.. the oddometer then will be nearly correct give a bit for a few % of over reading.
So, like you, I have no need for electrikery speedo rectfying boxes, as my old disco dont have much electrikery to go wrong....
oh what the feck have I just said - the god of electrickery will come visit me now
eek indeed..lol
cowasaki
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Well I've written the Pseudo code for the device (as I've spent an hour or so thinking about it so wrote it like that to avoid forgetting what I had come up with!). Will write it in C tomorrow and await the TD5 clocks and transducer to arrive. Will then test it. Should be easy to test as I will have two TD5 clocks
I've written it to use option (A) with a calibrate button, an LED and a 5th wire connecting to LED on the dash. If calibrate button is held down on power on it reverses the output of the 5th wire which allows you to use a warning light that is neg or gnd triggered. Probably the engine management light or something like that (or a separate LED).
I've written it to use option (A) with a calibrate button, an LED and a 5th wire connecting to LED on the dash. If calibrate button is held down on power on it reverses the output of the 5th wire which allows you to use a warning light that is neg or gnd triggered. Probably the engine management light or something like that (or a separate LED).
cowasaki
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see your point, but my non chinese gizmo is regulated by any 3 sattelittes at any one time, so seems quite accurite straight out of the box/packet/sock draw whatever- checked my standard discos speedo@30mph. then 40mph, then 50mph,
seems is near correct @30, 3 mph out @40 and a bit more at 50mph.
as I dont go above 60mph maybe 65 mph speedo reading, I`m more Interested in keeping below the speed limits for our wonderful speed cameras and soon going live average speed cams over a measured distance.. the oddometer then will be nearly correct give a bit for a few % of over reading.
So, like you, I have no need for electrikery speedo rectfying boxes, as my old disco dont have much electrikery to go wrong....
oh what the feck have I just said - the god of electrickery will come visit me now
But this will be cheap and you can just stick it behind the dash and forget about it once calibrated. Until you change tyres then just re-calibrate. I could make it remember multiple sets of figures for those with multiple wheel/tyre combos and the odometer and speedo will be absolutely accurate. It's certainly not for everyone. I'll build a prototype and test it and if it all works to plan I will make some PCBs
Spunka
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cowasaki
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OK DOC
I'm sat here writing the actual code with a the circuit board sat hooked up to the computer. The actual circuit required to do it is a subset of something I've already built so I'm using that to build and test the thing before my TD5 clocks and the transducer arrive.
easye1
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agree with you, and from your enthuisiasm, i sincerly hope it all comes together, but for older cars with non electrickery type speedos,
not much use to us at all.
as our footfall of LZers is huge, with much of us being located in non town/city type homes, speed cams and such devices are perhaps not so much of a worry to them as it is for the likes of me being done once already by our wonderful roadside van operated cash cow number plate reading & registering then collecting money generators as I/we strayed from the path into evil of doing just over 5 to 6 milesPerHour more than I should have done.
the "fine"/donation/payment for 2 hours of classroom teaching of the perils of speeding cost MORE than either my choice of accurite speed displaying device or perhaps your elecktrickery device when fitted to motors with non standard "gearing" set ups
plus my device screams at me
when entering near a known speed cam location, then screams at me If I dare be driving over that particuler speed limit,
but, as I said, many dont drive on my road types let alone my normal motorway or main traffic routes..
horses for courses situation really..
cowasaki
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agree with you, and from your enthuisiasm, i sincerly hope it all comes together, but for older cars with non electrickery type speedos,
not much use to us at all.
as our footfall of LZers is huge, with much of us being located in non town/city type homes, speed cams and such devices are perhaps not so much of a worry to them as it is for the likes of me being done once already by our wonderful roadside van operated cash cow number plate reading & registering then collecting money generators as I/we strayed from the path into evil of doing just over 5 to 6 milesPerHour more than I should have done.
the "fine"/donation/payment for 2 hours of classroom teaching of the perils of speeding cost MORE than either my choice of accurite speed displaying device or perhaps your elecktrickery device when fitted to motors with non standard "gearing" set ups
plus my device screams at me
then screams at me If I dare be driving over that particuler speed limit,
but, as I said, many dont drive on my road types let alone my normal motorway or main traffic routes..
horses for courses situation really..
This is a device simply for people with electronic speedos to make them read correctly when they change wheels etc. The other devices are very useful and indeed do the job fine without things like this.
If someone has an old 200TDi, for example, and fits big wheels then they could have an accurate speedo by buying a 2nd hand TD5 speedo for about £20-25, a transducer for £35, the connectors for £15 and this box for £25 so for £100 they get a spangly new TD5 speedo with calibration. Some people would choose to do that others would not. I'm doing this for my own car and as I own an electronics company I thought I would just knock out a few for fellow enthusiasts. So long as it covers at least the cost I'm not too concerned. £25 inc postage will do just that.
easye1
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cowasaki
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Woohoo....
The circuit and software are working on the bench......
Just need to wait for the external bits.
The circuit and software are working on the bench......
Just need to wait for the external bits.
