New Member, Need some help!

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G

gcrivers

New Member
Posts
5
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
I have a problem with the 12V feed from the BECM to the back of the alternator. I believe that the alternator enables charging when 12V is placed into the ignition light connector. But my cable is outputting 11.7V and is intermittently charging the battery, causing major charge issues. I have figured the best way to solve this issue would be to either place a relay on the 11.7V output and get 12V direct from the battery (but theres no way for me to determine if its not completely dropping out whilst driving) or run / route a 12V ignition trigger lead from either the stereo or from another one in the engine bay.

Thats where I need help:

-Where to find a 12V ignition trigger lead in the engine bay (if one exists)
-Where to route it through the firewall the easiest with minimal dash removal.

Many thanks in advance.

Regards,
Julian Rivers-Smith
 
Last edited by a moderator:
gcrivers said:
Hi everyone, I'm a great fan of Land Rover's and have owned several in my years. I have much knowledge that I have taught myself on these cars,

Specifically:

-Air Suspension (expert)
-Vehicle BECM
-Brakes
-Aleternator
-Battery System
-Air Suspension Computer Control & Computer Diagnosis

Theres one issue I have that has attracted me to joining, I have a problem with the 12V feed from the BECM to the back of the alternator. I believe that the alternator enables charging when 12V is placed into the ignition light connector. But my cable is outputting 11.7V and is intermittently charging the battery, causing major charge issues. I have figured the best way to solve this issue would be to either place a relay on the 11.7V output and get 12V direct from the battery (but theres no way for me to determine if its not completely dropping out whilst driving) or run / route a 12V ignition trigger lead from either the stereo or from another one in the engine bay.

Thats where I need help:

-Where to find a 12V ignition trigger lead in the engine bay (if one exists)
-Where to route it through the firewall the easiest with minimal dash removal.

Many thanks in advance.

Regards,
Julian Rivers-Smith
Click to expand...

:welcome2: just to be sure we all see it, why not put in the "anything goes section" and also the "it's a V8 mate" section.:(
 
Theres a lot if **** taking on here. I hope yu have a thick skin. You normally only need to make one post, otherwise it is seen as "spamming" the site.
Welcome to the forum, i suggest you fix the problem, rather than the symptoms. find out where the voltage drop is occuring.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Theres a lot if **** taking on here. I hope yu have a thick skin. You normally only need to make one post, otherwise it is seen as "spamming" the site.
Welcome to the forum, i suggest you fix the problem, rather than the symptoms. find out where the voltage drop is occuring.
Click to expand...

He might just have a Stutter:D:D:D
 
We know its going to be the BECM, but the effort of repairing compared to replacing the wire makes it a bit more effective to do the latter. I kinda need the car for work and can't diagnose the fault one night then repair it the next as in New Zealand buses are a NIGHTMARE
 
i would be surprised if the alternator exciter circuit is that critical.

how about taking a feed from the coil packs or summat on the ignition circuitry somewhere, or better still, get yo alternator tested?
 
gcrivers said:
We know its going to be the BECM, but the effort of repairing compared to replacing the wire makes it a bit more effective to do the latter. I kinda need the car for work and can't diagnose the fault one night then repair it the next as in New Zealand buses are a NIGHTMARE
Click to expand...

11.7 volts to the back of the alternator is sufficient to start the alternator charging, so that ain't your fault. If you bypass the BECM it will record an alternator fault. I suspect your problem is more likely to be intermittant bad connections or a duff alternator.
 
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