Freelander 1 New commercial van project

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The drive shafts are different between older and more recent cars. I can't remember when they changed but you'll probably need to get newer drive shafts. Don't know about the hubs.
 
Cheers. Looking at the parts lists seems they changed the drive shafts is 2001. Have checked and the drive shafts from the old gearbox (2002) still fit the new one, so must be something else in the gearbox that they changed.
 
Steve in Antrim said:
Have checked and the drive shafts from the old gearbox (2002) still fit the new one, so must be something else in the gearbox that they changed
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The in board joints are the same. The change in 2002/3 was to the ABS pickups, which moved from joint mounted ABS rings, to bearing mounted ABS rings.
 
New clutch kit arrived but won't fit the solid flywheel fitted to the car. The engine the replacement gearbox came off had a good dual mass flywheel so will have to take another trip up to the breakers. Reckon I will need a rear diff off him too.
 
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websun said:
Isn't the solid flywheel creating more engine vibrations and in this engine might break the crankshaft over long run?
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Duel mass flywheels are to reduce torsional vibrations in the gearbox. They have little effect on the crankshaft. Crankshaft vibration is at a much higher frequency, which is why they have a damper on the front pulley.

The TD4 breaks it's crankshaft at the front bearing or crank web, which is a long way from the DMF.
 
Had a Rover 75 CDTi that broke its crank at 53k. It was an auto. Fitted a replacement engine that had come from a Freelander. Seems impossible to get new clutch plate for the solid flywheel conversion that has been fitted and have bought a decent standard clutch kit so makes sense to go back to a dual mass flywheel, especially as I know there was a good one fitted to the engine that I got the gearbox and IRD off.
 
Fitted the second hand but good condition dual mass flywheel and a new clutch. Just waiting now on a new clutch slave cylinder before I can refit the gearbox and IRD and stuff the whole lot back into the car.

I have already replaced the water pump and thermostat and aircon compressor belt. Any other recommendations for stuff to service/replace while the engine is still out?
 
Bit more progress today and one set back. Got the engine in, connected up the wiring and coolant pipes, refitted front struts. Decided to refill the cooling system to find coolant leaking from the new thermostat where the metal coolant pipes goes in. Looked at the old thermostat to find an o- ring still in it, hidden by a load of instant gasket! Then faced with the decision whether to drop the engine again or just try and get the thermostat off and fix it with the engine in the car. Decided on the latter - bleeding awkward but managed it after removing the left top engine mount and raising and lowering the engine to get better access to the bolts holding the thermostat in.

With that problem sorted onto the next one. I have misplaced one of the front subframe bolts so tomorrow's job will be scouring the shed to find where it has gone to!

Getting there slowly!
 
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Coolant leak from thermostat still not fixed so going to drop the engine again to fix it properly with a new O-ring rather than faff around trying to do it by feel with the engine in place - now just have to get my hoist back from the mate I lent it to!
 
Progressing nicely now, front end all back together and it runs. Original bumper back on.

Now to deal with the rear lift kit. No way the rear brake hoses were going to separate without breaking something so decided just to cut open the holes they go through in the plate on each rear shock. Can't see any good reason why it was a closed hole and not just an open slot like on the front shocks in the first place!


Lot of surface rust under the rear wheel arch liners so decided to sort that while I had it apart with some k-rust and silver hammerite:-

 
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