Freelander 1 New commercial van project

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Karlos28 said:
Oo are they cheaper on tax and insurance?

Wonder what the legalities are of fitting rear seats?
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Much cheaper. Van is £250 a year compared to £330 to 460 depending on td4 year. I'm also paying about £330 a year on modified van policy with Flux. All mods covered no hassle. Same mpg etc.

Once you put rear seats in it it isn't a commercial anymore, and tbh it's that much work on the preface lift to take everything out and fit it all you'd be better just buying a regular freelander 3 door. Also come mot your screwed as they will not let you psv it, then its log book changes etc etc.
 
ColinNI said:
Mg zr ones will be the same, any of the the rover 200 based car front seats will swap, doesn't matter 3 door only mind you else they don't have a handle to release frame.

Two hours work max.
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Thanks, just try find some seats now.
 
Small update. Speakers blew out, finally after 17 years they had enough, and not wanting a SPL van I knew what I wanted and with the mid tyres sounding loud as it is I wanted replacement ASAP.

However I wanted them to look factory and hide behind oem panels etc, I knew it would be a pain in the arse as mounting depth is a major issue in the freelanders.

The van versions in Mk1 for some reason have rear speakers behind the van panels fitted but not plumbed in, when I was doing the thermal kit I pulled the whole lot out but left in new wiring, so I will fit a set of 6x9s at some stage for some more vase and rear depth.

So for £22 I settled on these. Came as a complete kit and I'm VERY happy with the quality of speaker. I'm a kenwood or pioneer man usually, but these little jvc's are wonderfully clear.



Then you have the problem of making them fit. I'm FAR to tight to spend money on adapters so I used the old factory speakers and cut them up with a dremel to turn them into adaptors.







For other owners you can see even with my adapter fitted they arnt as deep as factory speakers giving loads of room.





Job done. All wired in correctly, took about 45 mins a side as I only had one dremel blade left and needed to preserve it lol.

Classic fm never sounded so good in my van.
 
Are adaptors really necessary? Those speakers are a direct replacement in the 5 door models. No cutting or making of adaptors or anything. The speaker just need 4 new holes to be drilled in the door for the screws.

They are ok for the money though.

Glad you like the tunes.
 
Sadly yeah they are about 1/2 a cm to small to reach edge to edge in the 3 door hole which annoyed me as I thought they would be direct fit also.
 
ColinNI said:
Sadly yeah they are about 1/2 a cm to small to reach edge to edge in the 3 door hole which annoyed me as I thought they would be direct fit also.
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That's really interesting that the 3 door has larger holes than the 5 door. On the 5 door, a 6.5" speaker fits perfectly in the hole, simply requiring 4 holes to be drilled.
20190118_201112.jpg

LR are baffling sometimes.
 
Maybe it's the speaker being flush in general just but they barely covered the "ring" but the hole looked identical to that one mind you.
 
Goodbye old English number plate and registration, hello nice new Northern Ireland 2019 reg.

Had held off until 2019 knowing the mgz plates where coming out obviously with my love of the mg z cars, I have a feeling another one will find it's way onto my zt-t and rover 75 soon.

With the pressed plates makes it feel much more old school land rover.








 
In a similar position to You I nearly bought a commercial but opted to get a 5 door TD4 so we ended up with a nicer family car for towing etc, I cringed when I took delivery of mine it looked like it was unloved lol minging inside and under the bonnet.Yours looks great a real transformation it's amazing what a bit of deep cleaning does, my seat is worn too on the drivers side and my wife is going to get some material to repair it I also ordered a new leather gear gaiter on e bay You have to glue it to the plastic surround the original is stuck to but it's only £10. keep up the good work hope it drives well for you, Alan.
 


Great banter doing injectors today, between leak of pipes not sealing right and the level of gunk from the build up of leaking.

Had been on the too do list for far to long. Like a new car now.
 
Thought I would carry this on from where Colin left off. Got the engine and gearbox out this weekend.


Sourced a used gearbox and IRD that I hope are good.


Found out why the clutch was slipping!


Good news is that it already has a solid flywheel fitted
 
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Steve in Antrim said:
Thought I would carry this on from where Colin left off. Got the engine and gearbox out this weekend.


Sourced a used gearbox and IRD that I hope are good.


Found out why the clutch was slipping!


Good news is that it already has a solid flywheel fitted
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Hi Steve, I recognise that car, did thon useless plonker Colin force you to take it off him or did he keep talking until you gave in? :p
It's a pity I didn't see this earlier cause I drove through Toombridge (or is it Toom?:confused:) earlier today and I could have called in to give you a hand.

Or maybe not.:D

Anyway welcome to the madhouse.
 
Steve in Antrim said:
Thought I would carry this on from where Colin left off. Got the engine and gearbox out this weekend.


Sourced a used gearbox and IRD that I hope are good.


Found out why the clutch was slipping!


Good news is that it already has a solid flywheel fitted
Click to expand...

Nice to see someone else with their hands in the guts of a freelander. Although you really shouldn't use aggregate blocks for supporting the body. They can crush without warning, which wouldn't be pleasant if you're underneath at the time.:eek:

Use wooden blocks, as they're not going to crumble suddenly, and they're lighter to move about too.;)
 
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Understand the risk but my house is built from those blocks so hope they don't crush that easily! Have wooden blocks between the chassis and the top of the concrete blocks to spread the load and won't be underneath there again until the engine is back in and it is back down on the axle stands anyway.
Nodge68 said:
Nice to see someone else with their hands in the guts of a freelander. Although you really shouldn't use aggregate blocks for supporting the body. They can crush without warning, which wouldn't be pleasant if you're underneath at the time.:eek:

You wooden blocks, as they're not going to crumble suddenly, and they're lighter to move about too.;)
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Replacing water pump and thermostat while the engine is out. Old pump bearing not to good and a bit gungy inside

The face of the block is a bit pitted as well but sealing faces good

New pump and thermostat fitted
 
Just cleaning up the replacement gearbox and noticed that the casing is quite a bit different on the new box compared to the old. Looks like it will fit fine but there is a lot more "meat" around the output shaft on the later replacement gearbox (off a 2005 I think) compared to the original 2002 box.
old box


later replacement box

 
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