Nanocom Results / Rough Starting

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
With them all connected and a wire tucked up in No 4 the voltage on ignition just about gets to 10v, then with tengine started goes up to 12.7/12.8v
 
get a nanocom reading when the symptom occurs cos if the fuel pressure is low the balance will go up in the sky

I have considered this but I am not sure the nanocom refreshes sufficiently quick enough to "catch it" ? Will try anyway though, perhaps on the Lynx as it seems more stable, the nanocom doesn't like being plugged in while the engine is started, sometimes it just resets.
 
Still say it's excess fuel into a cold cylinder.

Perhaps the copper washers have not sealed properly - perhaps there is a reason they are not sealing like a warped head or something. At least the glow plugs are ruled out. The last two times I have done the copper washers No.2 was loose on the injector nozzle still. Genuine parts.
 
Perhaps the copper washers have not sealed properly - perhaps there is a reason they are not sealing like a warped head or something. At least the glow plugs are ruled out. The last two times I have done the copper washers No.2 was loose on the injector nozzle still. Genuine parts.

Unless you have coolant leaking into a cylinder that is producing white smoke on startup from cold, excess unburnt fuel is the only other explanation. Does this only happen from cold?
 
Unless you have coolant leaking into a cylinder that is producing white smoke on startup from cold, excess unburnt fuel is the only other explanation. Does this only happen from cold?

Not sure about cold but certainly only after it’s been standing a few hours, hence the original suspicion it was copper washers. There is no noticeable coolant loss and the fumes do not smell coolanty, just an acrid diesel smell
 
Not sure about cold but certainly only after it’s been standing a few hours, hence the original suspicion it was copper washers. There is no noticeable coolant loss and the fumes do not smell coolanty, just an acrid diesel smell

Then it has to be excess fuel into cold cylinder that is just being warmed and not being ignited, it cannot really be anything else.
 
Then it has to be excess fuel into cold cylinder that is just being warmed and not being ignited, it cannot really be anything else.

Is that normal? It only started in November. I have held off having injectors checked as two sets produce the same problem. I know it's possible that each set has a dodgy injector though
 
Is that normal? It only started in November. I have held off having injectors checked as two sets produce the same problem. I know it's possible that each set has a dodgy injector though

It's what happens when the fuel is just being warmed by the cylinders compression, but the compression heat is not high enough to ignite it. Or fuel maybe being injected after TDC, could be a few things.
 
How much did you let it idle before you touched the throttle? or did you watch the balance when the smoke came out? were those 15 and -12 readings together with the smoke then it cleared? also do you know how much was the outside temperature?
 
How much did you let it idle before you touched the throttle? or did you watch the balance when the smoke came out? were those 15 and -12 readings together with the smoke then it cleared? also do you know how much was the outside temperature?

About a second, and yes it would have been about then. There were two "dips with smoke" in that test
 
You have to let it idle at least 15 seconds all the time... those two injectors with high readings were trying to compensate for something but i ddont know for what, also the MAP/IAT readings are suspect cos the "turbo pressure"/MAP is not supposed to be lower than the ambient pressure(that -0.04 means it's lower) unless it's some back pressure in the inlet(that's mr wammer's field i dont know what could cause that) and the IAT is not supposed to be lower that the ECT and FT if the vehicle was stone cold... i dont want you to spend money cos these things would rather cause power than starting issues
 
Yes I think I will, I’ve got a fuel pressure test kit but haven’t worked out which of the adapters to cobble together! Although I haven’t checked the fuel pressure it does have a new (cheapo) fuel pump and new (genuine) filter housing. It didn’t make any difference so I assumed fuel pressure wasn’t a factor, maybe it is.

I also wondered if perhaps although there is power to the glow plugs I have only put a multimeter to one, and I also removed one to physically see it glow up, but again only one. If one or more of the connectors is knackered it’s not going to do anything. If I leave the engine idling for 15-30 secs there are no issues at all, and generally it runs very well with no issues.

I’ve done several compression tests varying the order I did the cylinders each time and compression was fine.
like i said mine is is intermittent might not blow smoke for a few days weeks then it apears only on start up it a bit of a hit and miss with mine even on hot days so i know i can rule out glow plugs

so i can only suggest a dribbly injector and this could depend on the position of the injector comes to rest when engine is off ..... or a fuel pressure or regualtor issue allowing to bypass or the fuel system is able to suck in air ... mind you there are many other variables like a cracked head copper washer issues fuel tank running a vac ..white smoke doenst always mean raw fuel ..... air in the system can alter injection timing but not really eye stinging than raw fuel would give off ....classed a diesel miss
if it was a copper washer issue normally your fuel pump constantly screams like a cat

has the gauze screen been cleaned located inside the head if not this can also lead to fuel related issues specially on cold starts.... this goes back to fuel pressure ..and this can also lead to fuel expanding while the engine is cooling down
so the best place to measure fuel pressure is the out let on the fuel return on the head not the fuel temp sensor location ...as we need to measure cylinder head fuel pressure basically your reading needs to correspond to what your injectors see not only pressure but fluctuations on the gauge
the fuel temp sensor is the in going side to deliver fuel it doesnt notice there is a filter .... if this filter is to choke up the same fuel pressure will result as the regulator by passes as normal
 
Last edited:
like i said mine is is intermittent might not blow smoke for a few days weeks then it apears only on start up it a bit of a hit and miss with mine even on hot days so i know i can rule out glow plugs

so i can only suggest a dribbly injector and this could depend on the position of the injector comes to rest when engine is off ..... or a fuel pressure or regualtor issue allowing to bypass or the fuel system is able to suck in air ... mind you there are many other variables like a cracked head copper washer issues fuel tank running a vac ..white smoke doenst always mean raw fuel ..... air in the system can alter injection timing but not really eye stinging than raw fuel would give off ....classed a diesel miss
if it was a copper washer issue normally your fuel pump constantly screams like a cat

has the gauze screen been cleaned located inside the head if not this can also lead to fuel related issues specially on cold starts.... this goes back to fuel pressure ..and this can also lead to fuel expanding while the engine is cooling down
so the best place to measure fuel pressure is the out let on the fuel return on the head not the fuel temp sensor location ...as we need to measure cylinder head fuel pressure basically your reading needs to correspond to what your injectors see not only pressure but fluctuations on the gauge
the fuel temp sensor is the in going side to deliver fuel it doesnt notice there is a filter .... if this filter is to choke up the same fuel pressure will result as the regulator by passes as normal

I was thinking a cracked head and spoke to Turner Engineering who advised that if the head was cracked there would be diesel in the oil for definite. The gauze screen in the FPR is on the workbench, I took it out completely to rule it out.
 
what a silly idea that was the screen gauze is to capture any unwanted deposited from the fuel return as well as a inferior filter to let go hopefully you havent blocked up an injector nozzle

when you installed the FPR was the same gasket re used ? also where all surfaced clean on install
 
what a silly idea that was the screen gauze is to capture any unwanted deposited from the fuel return as well as a inferior filter to let go hopefully you havent blocked up an injector nozzle

when you installed the FPR was the same gasket re used ? also where all surfaced clean on install

Doesn't run any differently so I doubt anything is blocked up. Used a new gasket with the FPR, otherwise it'd leak
 
Back
Top