The usual failure is where the wiring goes from door to body. Have a nose around there and in the side of the footwell for multi-plugs.
My Project P38
- Thread starter yaki
- Start date
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The usual failure is where the wiring goes from door to body. Have a nose around there and in the side of the footwell for multi-plugs.
yaki
Member
- Posts
- 61
- Location
- South Wales
More work today
Solved the passenger door problem, wiring connector in the A pillar was corroded, cleaned it up but still no banana. Had already diagnosed the fault as 2 wires had no continuity but cleaning up the terminals made no difference, closer inspection revealed a pin was missing from the plug. Second wire had a break just before the outstation.
Have repaired but ideally need to source a loom for the door but at least it is now working
Still have the engine disabled message but have got rid of the keycode lockout message so making progress, need toget the BeCM and EDC resyncd I guess
have been dropping by the forum most evenings and now have the answer to my dash telling me the ignition key is inserted when it's not, bought some graphite powder to sort the lock barrel out.
Key fob will not unlock or lock the doors, fitted new batteries incase they were low but still no cigar
Onwards and upwards
Solved the passenger door problem, wiring connector in the A pillar was corroded, cleaned it up but still no banana. Had already diagnosed the fault as 2 wires had no continuity but cleaning up the terminals made no difference, closer inspection revealed a pin was missing from the plug. Second wire had a break just before the outstation.
Have repaired but ideally need to source a loom for the door but at least it is now working
Still have the engine disabled message but have got rid of the keycode lockout message so making progress, need toget the BeCM and EDC resyncd I guess
have been dropping by the forum most evenings and now have the answer to my dash telling me the ignition key is inserted when it's not, bought some graphite powder to sort the lock barrel out.
Key fob will not unlock or lock the doors, fitted new batteries incase they were low but still no cigar
Onwards and upwards
yaki
Member
- Posts
- 61
- Location
- South Wales
Managed to squeeze in some more work today, just odds n sods really.
Sorted the Ignition Key warning on the dash, tried graphite powder in the ignition barrel but failed to resolve. Ended up removing the steering lock barrel and cleaning it out with some alcohol (no brake cleaner left) and relubing with graphite and it is now working properly.
Had another go and getting the key fob to work but still no cigar.
Have cleared the key code lockout but still can't get the fob to operate the central locking.
I can unlock the drivers door with the key, alarm light on the dash continues to flash and when I open or close the drivers door the alarm sounder beeps twice. Central locking does not open any of the other doors. If I open any of the other doors, bonnet or tailgate the alarm will go off. Locking the drivers door with the key activates the central locking and all doors will lock.
Have replaced the fob batteries, battery cover and fob button cover, LED lights when I press the buttons, stuck a multimeter in pin 6 on the BECM as documented on the p38.com website and I get a regular voltage drop when pressing the remote so it looks like that is not the problem.
Having searched the various forums have tried all the methods I can find including
Press lock button, insert key into drivers door, turn key to lock position, hold for 3 secs, return key to centre and remove then release lock button
Insert key in drivers door, press lock and turn to lock position, return key to centre, press unlock and turn key to unlock position return to centre and then release button etc etc but still no joy.
Sorted the Ignition Key warning on the dash, tried graphite powder in the ignition barrel but failed to resolve. Ended up removing the steering lock barrel and cleaning it out with some alcohol (no brake cleaner left) and relubing with graphite and it is now working properly.
Had another go and getting the key fob to work but still no cigar.
Have cleared the key code lockout but still can't get the fob to operate the central locking.
I can unlock the drivers door with the key, alarm light on the dash continues to flash and when I open or close the drivers door the alarm sounder beeps twice. Central locking does not open any of the other doors. If I open any of the other doors, bonnet or tailgate the alarm will go off. Locking the drivers door with the key activates the central locking and all doors will lock.
Have replaced the fob batteries, battery cover and fob button cover, LED lights when I press the buttons, stuck a multimeter in pin 6 on the BECM as documented on the p38.com website and I get a regular voltage drop when pressing the remote so it looks like that is not the problem.
Having searched the various forums have tried all the methods I can find including
Press lock button, insert key into drivers door, turn key to lock position, hold for 3 secs, return key to centre and remove then release lock button
Insert key in drivers door, press lock and turn to lock position, return key to centre, press unlock and turn key to unlock position return to centre and then release button etc etc but still no joy.
sensible
Member
- Posts
- 80
- Location
- Cheshunt Hertfordshire
Great Post yaki
Were your location? Maybe someone near you could help you with your sync problems
Keep the pics coming!
Were your location? Maybe someone near you could help you with your sync problems
Keep the pics coming!
jerrytlr
New Member
- Posts
- 307
- Location
- Dordogne, France
I'm no guru on the alarm system, but I have found that when my fob stops working (about once a month) then it will not resynch or start working again until the EKA is entered correctly and engine immobilisation is cancelled. Once I have done this and started the engine, after a few attempts the fob just seems to resynch itself and start working again.
My car is similar age to yours so suspect yours is the same alarm/immobiliser setup as mine.
So, maybe best to sort out the EKA/engine immobilised problem before worrying about the fob?
Just a thought.....
Cheers
Jerry
My car is similar age to yours so suspect yours is the same alarm/immobiliser setup as mine.
So, maybe best to sort out the EKA/engine immobilised problem before worrying about the fob?
Just a thought.....
Cheers
Jerry
yaki
Member
- Posts
- 61
- Location
- South Wales
Spent some time on the phone today with Mozz and have sorted out my key fob problems 
Turns out I had the incorrect EKA code despite the guy I bought it off insisting it was the correct code
Now have the right one and did the 4 left turn process which turned off the alarm system but remote still didn't work.
After talking through a few processes we got the fob to sync and it is now working.
Filled up the engine with fresh oil and now need to get it running, engine turns over but doesn't fire.
Have taken some pics on my phone showing how to remove it strip off the plastic bits and clean, when I get 5mins will post how I did it
Turns out I had the incorrect EKA code despite the guy I bought it off insisting it was the correct code
Now have the right one and did the 4 left turn process which turned off the alarm system but remote still didn't work.
After talking through a few processes we got the fob to sync and it is now working.
Filled up the engine with fresh oil and now need to get it running, engine turns over but doesn't fire.
Have taken some pics on my phone showing how to remove it strip off the plastic bits and clean, when I get 5mins will post how I did it
yaki
Member
- Posts
- 61
- Location
- South Wales
One step forward, and two steps back
Had a spare hour tonight so fitted the new side repeaters and tried to check the fuel pump number. Side repeaters are fine bit can't find the fuel injection pump number
Went to refit the steering cowl and the steering tilt no longer locks
Nothing obvious amiss, had a search on the forum and there was 1 post a few years ago where they fixed it by lubing it, the post did mention theirs was gummed up with fluff and other crap while mine is nice n clean n shiny, will give it a go tomorrow after work and see it just requires lubrication, fingers crossed.
Also gave the engine the once over making sure it was all hooked up correctly and discovered I hadn't attached the fuel shut off valve wire. IIRC is was dark when I attempted it previously and lost the nut somewhere
Its now sorted
Had a spare hour tonight so fitted the new side repeaters and tried to check the fuel pump number. Side repeaters are fine bit can't find the fuel injection pump number
Went to refit the steering cowl and the steering tilt no longer locks
Nothing obvious amiss, had a search on the forum and there was 1 post a few years ago where they fixed it by lubing it, the post did mention theirs was gummed up with fluff and other crap while mine is nice n clean n shiny, will give it a go tomorrow after work and see it just requires lubrication, fingers crossed.
Also gave the engine the once over making sure it was all hooked up correctly and discovered I hadn't attached the fuel shut off valve wire. IIRC is was dark when I attempted it previously and lost the nut somewhere
Its now sorted
yaki
Member
- Posts
- 61
- Location
- South Wales
Not been on for a while but have been making progress albeit slow, work is still busy and when I'm off work it's been raining
Engine is now running, it was a faulty diesel injection pump in the end, fitted a replacement from a breaker with a snapped timing chain and it now runs great.
Had to make the flywheel locking tool and the diesel pump sprocket tool but the job itself was quite easy and the timing kit I bought from the states worked ok
Found a few more issues, radiator leaks under pressure, EAS pump seal is shot and have failed to fix the steering column tilt mechanism
Have ordered the parts and hoping they arrive before the weekend so I can get them fitted over the bank holiday
Engine is now running, it was a faulty diesel injection pump in the end, fitted a replacement from a breaker with a snapped timing chain and it now runs great.
Had to make the flywheel locking tool and the diesel pump sprocket tool but the job itself was quite easy and the timing kit I bought from the states worked ok
Found a few more issues, radiator leaks under pressure, EAS pump seal is shot and have failed to fix the steering column tilt mechanism
Have ordered the parts and hoping they arrive before the weekend so I can get them fitted over the bank holiday
Last edited:
yaki
Member
- Posts
- 61
- Location
- South Wales
Replacement steering column arrived Friday and is now fitted, surprisingly easy job
Front N/S airspring is shot, bloody cheapskate previous owner had fitted a brand new Dunlop on the drivers side but ignored the other one, replacements ordered.
Still waiting on a replacement radiator, was promised delivery for Friday but failed to arrive, fingers crossed for tomorrow
Removed front bumper and cleaned out the washer bottle as it was coated inside with green slimy stuff. Easy fix, I dropped a handful of chippings into the washer bottle and added warm soapy water, then gave it a good shake for 10mins and is now nice n clean.
Front N/S airspring is shot, bloody cheapskate previous owner had fitted a brand new Dunlop on the drivers side but ignored the other one, replacements ordered.
Still waiting on a replacement radiator, was promised delivery for Friday but failed to arrive, fingers crossed for tomorrow
Removed front bumper and cleaned out the washer bottle as it was coated inside with green slimy stuff. Easy fix, I dropped a handful of chippings into the washer bottle and added warm soapy water, then gave it a good shake for 10mins and is now nice n clean.
