METAL DRILL BITS???

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blue beasty said:
Something that's worth passing on. It bothers me that so many basic skills are being lost.

It probably doesn't matter but it feels like it should.
Click to expand...

It matters. a LOT.

chris7 said:
Why bother to learn when you can pay someone to do it.....seems to be the attitude.....problem is my generation are not passing these once handed down skills.....

onto their sons....
Click to expand...

And that is why it matters - who is going to make or repair stuff when these skills are lost ?
 
Well reading this thread I learnt that you should use coolant when drilling metal - so that's a positive :)

Any more tips for someone that doesn't really drill like me?

Cheers.
 
fozt said:
Well reading this thread I learnt that you should use coolant when drilling metal - so that's a positive :)

Any more tips for someone that doesn't really drill like me?

Cheers.
Click to expand...
Use a centre punch,
If you are drilling more than about 6 mm drill a small pilot hole first
If you are drilling into a hardened bolt or Allen bolt then use one of these but keep the speed down.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cintride-...hash=item1ea0b5466d:m:mrjL_7SNmRho0kCR2zwat_A
Don't run with sissors
 
One of the most awkward drilling jobs to do without the proper tools is drilling through a round bar or a pipe.
The safest and probably the easiest way to do it is to use "Vee" blocks or a fastened down drill stand vice and a vertical mounted or pillar drill, as well as a centre punch, eye protection, cutting fluid and the correct drill and feed speeds.
There are, or were some cheap bench mounts designed to take a hand held electric drill, Black and Decker (used) to do some for their drills. For occasional light work they can be OK .... just, but bear in mind their limitations and the fact that very slow drill speeds aren't really available with that type of drill, so you'll have to modify your work techniques to take this into account.

Of course, an even easier way is to get someone else to do it for you. :D
 
jamesmartin said:
dormer cobalt are what i use successfully ,but they do need sharpening like any drill, you might be better getting one of theses or similar
View attachment 100519
or buying in packs like theses
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Click to expand...
+1 for Dormer cobalt drills it all we use at work and what i use at home. slow and steady is name off game when drilling metal and plenty cutting compound/fluid.
 
I have one of those sharpeners and it works fine, I don't think it is as accurate as by hand to be honest as you just shove the drill bit in while it's turning and there is a bit if slack so the angle isn't perfect sometime - this is one I got from machine mart. However it does work.

I don't have a bench grinder anymore but I know how to sharpen on that to, it isn't overly hard but I can't do small bits on the grinder.

I tend to keep and reshape/sharpen the bigger stuff and small bits <5mm I just buy a few at a time

I still haven't been able to drill stainless neatly
 
As well as carbide tipped drills for drilling metal, I've sometimes ground a cutting edge on a spare masonry drill (with a 'green grit' grinding wheel) and used it to drill holes in hard things like cast iron, files and other bits of high carbon steel. If you're using a small workpiece that you can heat up, then getting it red hot and letting it cool slowly can help soften (or anneal) it. Putting it in a fire while the fire goes out over night is good for this. I used to make a lot of stuff out of angle iron from old bed frames. That's often tough stuff, and spring tempered too. Putting the ends I wanted to work on in a fire overnight made it a lot easier to cut, drill, bolt and rivet the following day.
 
Well, lots of feedback on this so thanks everyone.

In answer to earlier questions...

Using a hand drill on slow speed
Nope...ashamed to admit not using a cutting liquid - really didn't realise this was necessary for small jobs with hand drill...oops!
Trying to drill 8mm and 13mm holes in mild steel...pilot holes first
Drill bits are not even spiralling any swarf...its painfully slow
Drill bits are fairly new but nothing fancy

Appreciate the info on the drill bits...I will try them out and will get myself some lube/coolant

Yet again...more learnt on this forum.
 
If it's going slowly and with no spirals of swarf, it suggests your drills could do with a sharpen. If they're not producing swarf, then they're just skating on the surface, which makes heat and interferes with the temper. Drills are happiest when they're cutting something. If they're just skating they tend to blunt quite quickly.
 
Brown said:
If it's going slowly and with no spirals of swarf, it suggests your drills could do with a sharpen. If they're not producing swarf, then they're just skating on the surface, which makes heat and interferes with the temper. Drills are happiest when they're cutting something. If they're just skating they tend to blunt quite quickly.
Click to expand...
Absolutely right vital that any cutting tool should cut not rub.
And while over speed is a problem with drills on small diameter drills don't go too slow, it makes life hard for both you and the drill.
Remembering my old tech collage days cutting speed for HSS is 80 - 100 feet per minute so if you get the diameter of the drill and multiply by 3.14 (in inches) then you divide that by 12, then divide the result into 80 gives you the correct rpm.
Hope I remembered that right, but if not I will soon be reminded.
I always found it a wee bit high and lowering it a bit helps with the less than ideal conditions we usually work in.
 
raywin said:
Absolutely right vital that any cutting tool should cut not rub.
And while over speed is a problem with drills on small diameter drills don't go too slow, it makes life hard for both you and the drill.
Remembering my old tech collage days cutting speed for HSS is 80 - 100 feet per minute so if you get the diameter of the drill and multiply by 3.14 (in inches) then you divide that by 12, then divide the result into 80 gives you the correct rpm.
Hope I remembered that right, but if not I will soon be reminded.
I always found it a wee bit high and lowering it a bit helps with the less than ideal conditions we usually work in.
Click to expand...

Similar ball park figures to what I was taught during my apprenticeship. Then a case of listen and look to tune what you were doing.

Cheers
 
I do drill grinding classes at work (using machine and manual method ) it is a skill that is being lost just as general machining is such a shame
the big mistake is that for thin steel you should alter the drill point angle use a centre punch to stop it running all over the place and use a drop of oil
 
BLASER said:
I do drill grinding classes at work (using machine and manual method ) it is a skill that is being lost just as general machining is such a shame
the big mistake is that for thin steel you should alter the drill point angle use a centre punch to stop it running all over the place and use a drop of oil
Click to expand...
Well it's good to know that at least some of theses skills are being carried forward. I remember "flattening" drill point angles for thinner metal gets more of the edge cutting before the chisel point breaks through. And boxing holes ahhh
 
It makes me sad that there are so few skilled engineers out there now I love my job I get to play with very big machines making /salvage parts for them
where I work we have a full machine shop I still get to do some screw cutting on the lathes ect very rare you see that now
 
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