Wolf style rim retrofit to 1983 110

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If you are worried about the “MOT” rather than the safety (as the safety is covered by the increased torque) you could always fit solid enclosed wheel nuts so the studs cannot be seen. Other than the fact you are on the other side the world, I have just removed a set you could have had as went back to standard on my project station wagon.

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I will try and remember to check the series when I am back in the country. In the mean time here are some pictures (blown up from other pics) of the td5 which looks like the the studs sit flush on the back and maybe one thread short on the front but they are the factory original studs and genuine tubeless HD rims.

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Below is my series 3 again with original studs which both front and back the studs are short and leave a couple Of threads of nut exposed. These are genuine tubes HD rims.

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The series 3 definitely looks about the same amount of engagement as ours are now
 
If you are worried about the “MOT” rather than the safety (as the safety is covered by the increased torque) you could always fit solid enclosed wheel nuts so the studs cannot be seen. Other than the fact you are on the other side the world, I have just removed a set you could have had as went back to standard on my project station wagon.

View attachment 330109View attachment 330109

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Yeah caps instantly remove the look of uncertainty!
 
There are three lengths of stud.
40(39), 45 and 60(56)mm.

I think the OP has the (40)39mm ones as they have a plain end ... ?

If so part number FRC6137 will get you closer.
I checked the length of ours and they are 45mm, I think that the older defender hubs were thicker than the later ones which accounts for the 2 lengths 40/45 ideally we need about 4.5mm more, the 60mm would be OK but then people start mentioning there is too much thread poking out! for me I'm just waiting for some good technical data to confirm the 45mm studs with the higher torque is approved by landrover but I dont think thats going to happen
 
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