Mad LWB disco idea (Now ultimate overlanding disco thread of rubbish

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Tragic. I mean, Im confident enough in its reliability that Ide drive it to frogland for you, although depending where in frogland, it could be more than a days drive from North Wales!
 
Sorry I missed the fact you have already put it up for sale here (i dont look as dont need another)
But I would say that you need to put up some better pics. not 1 at a time either;)
Also remember the pics need to prove to peeps here its solid, Top shiny pics do nothing for most of us when we know how much crust can be underneath.

So work on the ad a bit and you may have some more nibbles. Price I have no clue about i guess you have researched what others are going for, cos it sounded a lot to me.

good luck:).

J
 
Thanks, its getting an oil change soon, mainly so I can get some pictures when its up on the ramp!
I couldnt upload more than one picture at a time, or at least I couldnt figure out how!
Its solid underneath, but I appreciate that its not a good idea to just take the sellers word for it!
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Thanks, its getting an oil change soon, mainly so I can get some pictures when its up on the ramp!
I couldnt upload more than one picture at a time, or at least I couldnt figure out how!
Its solid underneath, but I appreciate that its not a good idea to just take the sellers word for it!
Click to expand...

You clic on upload file then when it appears in your thread you do it again for every pic you want to post..
 
Show pics of both rear door shuts to prove the rust has been sorted, also the sills from underneath. Inner wings under the bonnet and from below if poss.
Haven't looked back at the pics, did you show the floor in the boot?
Closer in pics of the engine bay, preferably a video with the engine running, giving it a burst of full throttle a couple of times, all the seats, especially the drivers, front footwells with the carpets lifted. Headlining.
All these are areas we know go badly.
I apologise if you have put some of this up, I have looked at a few recently.
look at Biketeacherdave's ad to see what I mean!
 
Will be sure to do all of that, the headlining is saggy, but other than that its all clean and good. Its got seat covers on it, which are a right pain to take on and off, so Ill wrestle with the drivers seat cover, the rest Im happy to faff around with once someone actually shows interest in it, i.e. "if you show me the seats Ill buy it for £wxyz" or "Ive driven all the way here, can you uncover the seats" because they really are a PITA! Can I upload videos to this site?
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Will be sure to do all of that, the headlining is saggy, but other than that its all clean and good. Its got seat covers on it, which are a right pain to take on and off, so Ill wrestle with the drivers seat cover, the rest Im happy to faff around with once someone actually shows interest in it, i.e. "if you show me the seats Ill buy it for £wxyz" or "Ive driven all the way here, can you uncover the seats" because they really are a PITA! Can I upload videos to this site?
Click to expand...
Are they genuine LR seat covers?
Mine are, as are the rubber floor mats and they are well made and a real asset. A selling point in fact.
 
Nope, although I do have the LR rubber floormats (not boot) and a period correct LR chrome bullbar, but its clearly not installed. Ive also got a set of +2" terra firma shocks and a pair of dislocation cones for the rear, but theyre also not installed
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
as Ive done a fair bit with fiberglass boats
Click to expand...

Ive got a Yacht thats had a side impact how would you repair this mate.........
100_1466_zps2d54851d.jpg
 
Having measured and done the maths, I want a 4 inch suspension lift.
Calculated as follows : distance between center of chassis rail and ground = 11 inches. 11+2=13 13 x 1.16 = 15ish 15-11=4
Now, I am aware that for a 4 inch lift, other suspension components (radius arms for castor correction? Panhard rod?) need to be changed, as well as shocks and springs, and brake lines. Im hoping to use skinny tyres, somewhere between 35s and 37s, so, my question is, how much does it cost for the components for the suspension lift, and what exactly are those components? And will the stock driveshafts be sufficient, or do I need bigger ones?
For the roof, Ive decided Ill replace the rear door with a stock disco one, and change the roof to a more normal height one, so I can have a roofrack.
Thanks!
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Having measured and done the maths, I want a 4 inch suspension lift.
Calculated as follows : distance between center of chassis rail and ground = 11 inches. 11+2=13 13 x 1.16 = 15ish 15-11=4
Now, I am aware that for a 4 inch lift, other suspension components (radius arms for castor correction? Panhard rod?) need to be changed, as well as shocks and springs, and brake lines. Im hoping to use skinny tyres, somewhere between 35s and 37s, so, my question is, how much does it cost for the components for the suspension lift, and what exactly are those components? And will the stock driveshafts be sufficient, or do I need bigger ones?
For the roof, Ive decided Ill replace the rear door with a stock disco one, and change the roof to a more normal height one, so I can have a roofrack.
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Curious in your calculation what the 1.16 represents?
Have you considered 2" suspension and 2" on the body, that would be friendlier on the suspension costs/needs of components.
Doing what you say to the roof surely you only end up with something you could do to yours anyway:confused:.

Apart maybe from the few extra inches in length if I remember.

J
 
The wheelbase of a standard disco is 100", the wheelbase of the ambulance is 116 inches, so the 1.16 represents the multiplication factor to have the same breakover angle as a normal disco with a 2 inch lift. (Excluding tyre sizes)
A body lift, not too keen, partially because it sounds very expensive, as Im assuming the bodymounts for the ambulance are custom.
The roof, as it is currently, is so high up, that I wont be able to fit a roofrack, especially with big tyres and a lift. I have a very clever top secret plan as to the specifics of the roof/roof rack/etc plan, but simply put, Im going to try and make one that slides out, a bit like an awning, so that I can have a popup roof, and the option to put pitch a small ground tent on the roofrack, or a hammock or something, we'll see. Lowering the roof wont make it the same as a standard discovery at all!
Edit - yes, the roof rack will be mounted to the bumpers, and probably the rock sliders, I suppose it will also double up as a sort of external rollcage, although that is not its intended function
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
The wheelbase of a standard disco is 100", the wheelbase of the ambulance is 116 inches, so the 1.16 represents the multiplication factor to have the same breakover angle as a normal disco with a 2 inch lift. (Excluding tyre sizes)
A body lift, not too keen, partially because it sounds very expensive, as Im assuming the bodymounts for the ambulance are custom.
The roof, as it is currently, is so high up, that I wont be able to fit a roofrack, especially with big tyres and a lift. I have a very clever top secret plan as to the specifics of the roof/roof rack/etc plan, but simply put, Im going to try and make one that slides out, a bit like an awning, so that I can have a popup roof, and the option to put pitch a small ground tent on the roofrack, or a hammock or something, we'll see. Lowering the roof wont make it the same as a standard discovery at all!
Edit - yes, the roof rack will be mounted to the bumpers, and probably the rock sliders, I suppose it will also double up as a sort of external rollcage, although that is not its intended function
Click to expand...

Ok, I will believe you on the math, But would really have to look at it to say right or wrong way to calculate it. (i did check) I like numbers:).

Think your right from what I can see. but driving what you are wanting to drive, do you really need to get that aggressive. Going up there and then putting all that heavy stuff on top, makes me feel like you would need to worry more about roof protection not breakover angles:eek::).
At a 2" suspension lift you are still better than standard 100" disco. Which again would help cost/need for expensive suspension extras.

Body mounts on the ambulance are "probably" the same as standard maybe a couple of extra. But you would be surprised at the cost, as at the end of the day it is only bobbins and longer bolts;). But doesn't help you with the reason for your calculation.

Anyway I admire you aspirations, for something you have put your own mark on:). But normally people who attempt this have a decent workspace, admit some hardcore do a rebuild under a carport:eek:.

Like an "awning and a ground tent":rolleyes: Think somebody mentioned that for your own 1:D.

As you have at least relised that messing with the chassis yourself brings a whole world of other issues, so work with what you have:), then go for it.
Don't expect it to be easy or quick is all I will say:).

But you will get support and advise when you ask if you do get this going:D.

J
 
Thanks, yeah, Im going to look really closely at my tyre options, before deciding if a full 4 inch lift is really necessary.
Its not going to be a quick build, at all. Im hoping to do the front and rear bumpers, inc spare tyre rack first, and then maybe the roof, and then the rest of the camper related changes, and then Ill think about the roof rack, and if its really needed. And then Im going to weigh it, then decide on tyres and suspension. Im not going to be putting anything heavy on the roof rack when the vehicle is moving, only maybe some recovery boards and a solar panel, then when it slides/folds out, the side that isnt on the roof might have a tent on it, with 1 person in it, and then the popup roof, if present, will have another bed in it.
Really, the main point of lowering the roof is a.) To have a roof rack if I need one and b.) To have slightly better fuel consumption, hence longer range. One of the first things Ill do is fit a 2nd fuel tank, so I can twin-tank it and run it on veg oil, given how stupidly expensive diesel is these days. It will also give me extra range should I need it.
Really, for at least the 1st year, I dont think it will do any really tough offroading outside of the UK, and then maybe its maiden overland trip might be only the first country or two in africa, before doing a really big trip. Ive got a couple of mates who have said they might be interested in joining in with their defenders, and a couple more 4x4less friends who said they might come in the ambulance with me, we'll see. One thing is for sure is that I will be getting it stuck at least 10 times with them before they can come!
But yes, all very ambitious, step 1 is to actually get the thing, then learn how to weld, to make all my marvelous ideas into a reality.
Anyway, another question, the 200tdi, its not very grunty, and Ive heard a fair few people say that tdi defenders struggle a lot in the dunes, and Im anticipating this to be at least as heavy as a fully prepped 110, so what are my options to get more power out of the 200tdi? Or maybe swap it for a different engine? But it must be able to run on veg oil, and not cost a small fortune, because the budget, although currently within the limits, is being stretched. Would a manual p38 engine (and gearbox?) fit without too much difficulty? I know of a place with, well, at least 50 p38s sitting being broken for parts so p38 bits are very easy for me to get. I could even buy a whole donor car, if there are other useful bits (brakes, axles?)
An OM606 swap it out of the question, because its far too expensive. A cummins is also out of the question, because its far far far too heavy. Any input is much appreciated, thanks!
 
Ive done some costing up, and with all the recovery gear etc, its 6k, before I even touch the engine. The engine is a gold seal 200tdi with 39k miles on it, so its probably worth a decent amount, not that I think swapping an engine is a good idea to make money, but it means its nowhere near as expensive as I initially thought, compared to say, the wheels and tyres. Because I think 2 spares is quite wise, and thats £1500-£2000 just there, ouch
 
Couple of observations:
  • If you put heavy duty springs on the back and move the back ones to the front you may well find you already have a 2" lift! I did when I didn't really want it! (I'll be reversing it soon on my 1998 Annie as i don't want the height. But with the lift there is room for bigger wheels, I think, tho i am no expurt on this
  • the performance of a 200 or 300tdi can be much improved with a performance exhaust and a bigger intercooler. I have only done the bigger ("sports") exhaust and it does make it pull better from a standstill etc. There are other mods you can easily do, but I forget them as I haven't looked at them for a while. A quick Google should bring them up.
  • It does!
  • https://www.google.com/search?q=imp...me..69i57.11067j1j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 
Thanks, Ill look into it, and prioritise what I need and what I dont, probably leave the roof as it is, and not have a roof rack, hence meaning I dont need custom bumpers if off the shelf ones are available. And then just use it as a van, chuck a mattress in the back, and basic backpacking stuff, and then if Im feeling fancy, a solar panel, fridge, and Jackery (or similar). Ill probably prioritise the offroad mods, so the lift, tyres, bumpers, more power, and certainly twin tanks!
So Ill be saving the roof till last I think
 
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