P38A M51 diesel cooling improvement.

kapilamuni said:

Mine is not overheating. That era passed after changing the HG. I don't pull caravans.
My VC fan is from 300TDI which is a direct fit bought new , genuine about 2 years back.
The radiator is the one came from the factory yet it's fine.
I just want to get rid of the habit of eyeing the temp gauge & the feeling that the needle will go to red the next moment.
In addition to what datatec pointed about the radiator, I noted that the VC fan is not centered on the radiator (on a vertical axis).
It's more towards the RHS. Should not it be more towards the LHS where hot coolant flowing in.?

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kapilamuni said:

LOL.

Didn't do anything. Just put everything back as it was & running as usual. (Inj pump pushed fully towards the engine.)
Strangely, with new voltage regulator the battery is getting around 14.2 +, always.
It has made the EAS happy- comes up fast & the AC is colder. When hot, the engine starts after 5-6 turns.
So far no sudden engine cut outs. Fingers crossed.
Must try a refurbed inj pump once my purse is thick.

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kapilamuni said:

No. Anything to adjust there?

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kapilamuni said:

Mod done without removing VC fan. Found a radiator fan of a diesel BMW 320 - E46 (marked 400W ) with that I intend to replace the VC fan. That demands about 35 A and with full load , (AC fans, blowers, ABS pump,wipers, head lights high beam, fogs etc) will the alternator (105 A VALEO) stand upto it?
Anyone knows what the wattage under full electrical load?

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N2O said:

With good viscous fan(genuine) and good clean radiator(60mm thick core) i've never had problems with overheating.
No electric fan will give more airflow than original 11 blade viscous fan unless it's few kilowats power.

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wammers said:

Leave the bloody thing alone. If it ain't broke don't fix it. With your track record you will cock something up. What was the end game with the chains and injection pump you never did say?

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Datatek said:

Noisy & slows warm up in cold weather. The viscous fan does not run at engine speed at all times, it runs faster when the RAD is very hot but still not at full engine speed. If the viscous coupling ever seizes, the fan is inclined to shed blades.

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Datatek said:

Pointless adding an additional electric fan, the aircon fans will do the job. If you must fit the fan, you need an additional relay operated by a stat with a fused feed direct from the battery. The alternator should cope as the fan should not be running constantly. (ditto the ABS & EAS pumps and aircon fans)

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kapilamuni said:

Yes it will have a separate relay about 40A & will switch on via thermo switch.
Do you have any info about the total requirement in Watts when everything switched on?

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Datatek said:

If you do not understand the implications of what you are doing, best not do it.

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People have been telling him that since he got the car. ​

tomcat59alan said:

People have been telling him that since he got the car. ​

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• BOSCH 0392020034 Universal Auxiliary Additional electric pump for car 12 volts.

kapilamuni said:

To improve water circulation at idle, may be we can consider this .

• BOSCH 0392020034 Universal Auxiliary Additional electric pump for car 12 volts.

Heater core out put line is a good candidate, wired with the thermostat of 95C ON & 87C OFF.
This one which I have already bought, is a direct fit in place of standard emergency AC fan activating thermostat switch at the rear of cyl head.(MY 2000 on wards )

Coolant Temperature Switch Fan M14x1.5mm 95℃ Fits Husqvarna Husaberg.

Both available on bay e. No affiliation but for info only.

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