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Pressure test kit is definitely the way to go. Get the engine warmed up first, and then do the test with engine off.
P38A Diesel losing coolant.
- Thread starter Grrrrrr
- Start date
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- Posts
- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Well, I spent the day braving the sub-zero temperatures and nursing a hang-over to have a play.
Inlet manifold off and glow-pulgs out. Pressurised the cylinders but no coolant came out. So fairly confident the block, head and head-gasket are fine.
So, I visited the scrapped and sacrificed the expansion cap to remove the pressure valve bit, drill a hole through and fit a Presta valve from an old bike tyre so I could pressurise the expansion tank ... except it didn't seem to work. Change of plan: took off the small pipe at the top from the top of the radiator and tee'ed in bit of pipe and connected that to the pump. After pressurising I noticed a drop from where the matrix pipes coming through the bulkhead join onto the heater pipes above the exhaust. Those bl**dy Mikalor clamps were weeping - should have been constant tension clamps but they had none in stock when I was doing the job. Added an extra Jubilee clip to each pipe and that seemed to fix it. Presumably the reason I saw no dye was because it dropped straight onto the exhaust which immediately cooked it.
So hopefully that's the leak sorted.
In other news, both the key refused to resync after reconnecting the battery. Cleared the RF memory but still no joy. Decided enough is enough. Tomorrow I will re-enable the EKA, immobiliser and alarm and see if that makes a difference, although I can't recall ever needing to in the past.
Inlet manifold off and glow-pulgs out. Pressurised the cylinders but no coolant came out. So fairly confident the block, head and head-gasket are fine.
So, I visited the scrapped and sacrificed the expansion cap to remove the pressure valve bit, drill a hole through and fit a Presta valve from an old bike tyre so I could pressurise the expansion tank ... except it didn't seem to work. Change of plan: took off the small pipe at the top from the top of the radiator and tee'ed in bit of pipe and connected that to the pump. After pressurising I noticed a drop from where the matrix pipes coming through the bulkhead join onto the heater pipes above the exhaust. Those bl**dy Mikalor clamps were weeping - should have been constant tension clamps but they had none in stock when I was doing the job. Added an extra Jubilee clip to each pipe and that seemed to fix it. Presumably the reason I saw no dye was because it dropped straight onto the exhaust which immediately cooked it.
So hopefully that's the leak sorted.
In other news, both the key refused to resync after reconnecting the battery. Cleared the RF memory but still no joy. Decided enough is enough. Tomorrow I will re-enable the EKA, immobiliser and alarm and see if that makes a difference, although I can't recall ever needing to in the past.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 45,137
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
With EKA off, you resync the FOB in the door lock, from a locked state, turn to unlock and hold the unlock button for 5 seconds, then turn to lock and press the lock button for 5 seconds. Sometimes takes more then one attempt. Turning EKA on enables the passive coil in the ignition barrel allowing sync via the coil.
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But sync doesn't work from the ignition if the antenna is unplugged, it's just a bit too far. In my experience
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 45,137
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Or from the door if you stand in the way of the signal.
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- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
No sync via coil on mine so always has to be done with key in the door. It was having none of it from either key. I think the ignition bit came along in '97. The '98 car certainly have it.
- Posts
- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
No worries there. I got a gen 3 receiver before the prices went silly ... even sillier.
- Posts
- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
For those that are interested, my cylinder pressurisation tool.
- Posts
- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Some extensive testing done in the snow this morning and then this evening, another leak at the other end of the coolant pipe above the turbo! Unfortunately, all I had was a Jubilee clip rather than a constant tension clip but frankly I suspect that pipe has gone soft and didn't like being disturbed for the heater matrix operation and then again for the engine head work.
- Posts
- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
In other news I had another go at resyncing my keys ...
It appears the EKA was not disabled, just immobiliser and alarm. Re-enabled those and cleared the RF memory (again). Didn't even get as far as the resync procedure for key #2 - it worked as soon as I pressed the button. Very strange. Key #4 was another matter. Wouldn't play ball at all, even after clearing the RF memory repeatedly, switching the immobiliser off, on and off again. In the end thought bugger it: #2 works on the fob and at least #4 works with the blade as backup. Maybe #4 will mysteriously start working again in a few days?!
It appears the EKA was not disabled, just immobiliser and alarm. Re-enabled those and cleared the RF memory (again). Didn't even get as far as the resync procedure for key #2 - it worked as soon as I pressed the button. Very strange. Key #4 was another matter. Wouldn't play ball at all, even after clearing the RF memory repeatedly, switching the immobiliser off, on and off again. In the end thought bugger it: #2 works on the fob and at least #4 works with the blade as backup. Maybe #4 will mysteriously start working again in a few days?!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- Near Poitiers SW France
IMO the alarm should never be turned off, just EKA and Immobiliser. Apart from other considerations, turning off the alarm may affect your insurance.
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- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Left it with just immobiliser disabled in the end. Never had an issue with the EKA.
- Posts
- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Seems the pipe above my turbo has started to go soft and weep. Given it has been disturbed and the state of my exhaust heat shield above the turbo it is probably understandable.
I'll have a think on how to get a heatshield in there. Got a vague memory that it means turbo or exhaust manifold off and I want to avoid that!
I'll have a think on how to get a heatshield in there. Got a vague memory that it means turbo or exhaust manifold off and I want to avoid that!
- Posts
- 19,390
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Seems some of my earlier responses went in the Coolant in cylinder head gasket thread. Not sure how that happened. @blue beasty - can the posts be moved here?
Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
RangeRoller dt
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Pitty you couldn’t weld a metal bit in there with a minimal hose-join to turbo side, sod the heat shield.
