Less Is More. The LR Series lives on.

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tottot said:
Sweeping bends like yours are fine. I have been involved with off road trials for years and only a couple of times seen damaged brake lines [ usual culprit is a old bit of fencing wire wrapping the axle.]
Can not see how you piped the 109 front brakes in pics. Common mod is to run hard pipe from the flexi pipe to the lower slave first and then back up to the top slave. This puts the bleed nipple at the top.
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The pin hole and where fluid kept flowing from was where at the neck of the horizontal and vertical section. It held but leaked for a while before it stopped. I had the view that I must revisit the brakes so kept in on to see how good of a plan that was. Sometimes just take in it. See what happens before you say anything conclusive. Because I could make up a brake line in an instant I wasn't worried like before. If I had to remove the T piece that was going to be a doodle unlike before. The introduction of the T piece meant extra length to the existing line and with the copper pipe was a bastard to get into place to do it up. The tapped threads also leaked!

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Nothing fancy bit the introduction of the T piece.


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The Brass Brake Pipe Union T Tee Connector BTB657L - would have been a better part to use.

It's been fun working on my series. I'll do so as long as I can because I'm happy with it. I bought a six month old Discovery 4 and in the two years I had it several things went very wrong. The servicing procedure was a nightmare due to the way it was built. Front disc rotors alone were over £1,000 each!! The gear knob selector...what a disaster!! It refused to pop up and therefore gears could not be selected!! Is this what you call a Land Rover!!? Not to me. If you can't fix it at home and needs to be towed to the garage or needs plug in systems to be fixed, the only person being fooled is YOU!!

If this would have been the mindset of people back then nothing would have been achieved. Old is Good, Less Is More.
 
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The starter motor in the series III packed up! The spring jammed up as you can see - motor on the left. I took it to a starter motor only shop but all they did was advise me to buy a new one from a shop down from them. Rubbish!!

In the meantime I pinched the one from the series IIA for a straight swap. It fitted in no problem but was noticeably larger than the series III one.

I’ll not replace it but repair it.

Have any of you done so before? Let me know.
 
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I was tired of looking at it. The plans I have for the series IIA at times look bleek because the work I wanted done to it needs positive minds rather than a money making saga. My experience in life tells me where there is saga there is drama! I hate both so rather than wait for whichever would happen first I started my project works.


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Ok! First thing to be removed is the mess partition. Memories...some good some bad so be done with it.

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Off!! A bunch of useless stuff. I'll shipping the series to the UK for the work I need doing to it. This involves a Carneat Du Passage from the AA here in Nairobi and other paperwork especially from customs. I'll hold my breath!!

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This is a perfect example of what not to let happen. Squirrels ate and ****ed in the seats. The smell was rather potent. I'd had enough of this BS so seats got stripped to bear metal.

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The seats were in good condition and I thought be best to keep them. To get the series as I want it and because I don't have any other Land Rovers that I can get my hands on because of the regulations imposed on vehicle importation, this will be a full on conversion project keeping things simple and practical. The seats may be used again or for something else.

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WooHoo!! Open space...freedom at last. It's funny how the mind works. Just the removal of that mess made it feel bigger inside. More light and less restrictive.

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I like it now with less complication.

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From this stage I can now truly say I'm ready for shipping it. The only doubt is who will I send it to. That is the show stopper!
I can ship in everything I need for this conversion apart from the chassis. Laws that make zero sense! If it was permitted I'd do the work myself. I'd be happy to. I've made a start and that's what matters. In the meantime I need to put a list of what I need and from who. What needs fabrication etc.

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1. From the series IIA and in perfect working order. Why was it removed??
2. Also from the series IIA. Girling and may just need new seals.
3. Range Rover carburettor left out to rot!

It sometimes feels like it'll never happen because of the logistics, planning, ordering, thinking and money needed. When I think of what it'll be like when done I smile. I'll not give up but find ways and solutions. Once it has arrived in the UK the clock starts ticking because I'll a year until the Carneat needs to be renewed. Oh bugger!!

January 2025 would be a good time to ship it out and be done with the work by March. Summer time in the UK is bliss so I plan to then drive to some nice spots in the UK and Europe before shipping my series back to Kenya.
 
JIMBOB LR said:
I was tired of looking at it. The plans I have for the series IIA at times look bleek because the work I wanted done to it needs positive minds rather than a money making saga. My experience in life tells me where there is saga there is drama! I hate both so rather than wait for whichever would happen first I started my project works.


View attachment 312236
Ok! First thing to be removed is the mess partition. Memories...some good some bad so be done with it.

View attachment 312240
Off!! A bunch of useless stuff. I'll shipping the series to the UK for the work I need doing to it. This involves a Carneat Du Passage from the AA here in Nairobi and other paperwork especially from customs. I'll hold my breath!!

View attachment 312242
This is a perfect example of what not to let happen. Squirrels ate and ****ed in the seats. The smell was rather potent. I'd had enough of this BS so seats got stripped to bear metal.

View attachment 312241
The seats were in good condition and I thought be best to keep them. To get the series as I want it and because I don't have any other Land Rovers that I can get my hands on because of the regulations imposed on vehicle importation, this will be a full on conversion project keeping things simple and practical. The seats may be used again or for something else.

View attachment 312243
WooHoo!! Open space...freedom at last. It's funny how the mind works. Just the removal of that mess made it feel bigger inside. More light and less restrictive.

View attachment 312244
I like it now with less complication.

View attachment 312245
From this stage I can now truly say I'm ready for shipping it. The only doubt is who will I send it to. That is the show stopper!
I can ship in everything I need for this conversion apart from the chassis. Laws that make zero sense! If it was permitted I'd do the work myself. I'd be happy to. I've made a start and that's what matters. In the meantime I need to put a list of what I need and from who. What needs fabrication etc.

View attachment 312249
1. From the series IIA and in perfect working order. Why was it removed??
2. Also from the series IIA. Girling and may just need new seals.
3. Range Rover carburettor left out to rot!

It sometimes feels like it'll never happen because of the logistics, planning, ordering, thinking and money needed. When I think of what it'll be like when done I smile. I'll not give up but find ways and solutions. Once it has arrived in the UK the clock starts ticking because I'll a year until the Carneat needs to be renewed. Oh bugger!!

January 2025 would be a good time to ship it out and be done with the work by March. Summer time in the UK is bliss so I plan to then drive to some nice spots in the UK and Europe before shipping my series back to Kenya.
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1. Hand throttles are sometimes taken off if the PTO was removed, usually why they're there in the first place ...
 
JIMBOB LR said:
Brakes and unusual nipples!!

View attachment 312032
The vertical T and nipple apparently was the way to go. It was made locally by a brake and hydraulic shop. It leaked from a minute pin hole!

After having spent a lot of time figuring things out and talking to a bunch of ex - series owners I decided enough was enough!! Advice on advice! Change it to a Defender axle, Toyota brakes are the best.... :oops:

I tried a couple of tried and tested methods and nothing worked for me. The brakes were spongy and pedal went down to the bottom. After several attempts of bleeding the brakes I removed to check on the braking system itself. This was after I had spent a day with a mechanic who used to repair series back in the 80's. Hmm....

View attachment 312061
The wheel cylinders had seized. These were the original Girling ones The seals leaked and the inner cylinder walls pitted.

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Good Lord!! The Girling's aren't cheap and that's if you can find them.

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Brake fluid goes syrup! Use crap fluid and this is what you get.

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A sign of something not right. On my series IIA the drums are evenly worn and despite being fairly worn there isn't a sign of distortion, cracking or scorching. An example of poor knowledge. Remove wrong, fit wrong. A service manual is the way if in doubt.

View attachment 312065
Brake linings were **** poor and cracked in some areas. I came to realise that the leading and trial shoes were not fitted correctly but the same of each as a pair. This doesn't work. This was the reason for the cracking. The heat and pressure on just that one part of the lining must have been enormous! It also made sense why even though the brakes were spongy they would catch and did not have any modulation because the contact area of the shoe lining and drum was only about 80mm rather than the whole lining surface.

View attachment 312077
Leaking Hub Oil Seal. This was a later scenario before I fitted the new brake linings.

It had stood still years before I drove it in 2015. Even then I did very little to it and drove a good 200 or so miles. When braking it pulled to the near side.

I had to replace the cylinders and because I wanted to keep the Girling ones. I replaced the seals instead to see what happened. The result was a poor one and brakes even though better still were spongy! I ordered new ones locally and fitted them. These were from BGF.

View attachment 312066
Who are BGF!?

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What have I said before and will say it again! Local mechanics are just plain stupid!! These nipples were over tightened and almost round! Because of this and trying to remove them I simply had to go beyond and not only order them from the UK because they didn't have them here but also buy a flare tool and a roll of copper brake pipe.

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Just like that my worries were over and at the same time be a magician! 🤪

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WooHoo!! Perfect!!

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Result!! Not as good as I wanted it but it was the right way. The right tools, material and mind set. The pipe needs to be as close as possible to the axle. Perhaps right angles instead of sweeping bends? I don't have a pipe bending tool and using a ring spanner end isn't that good. I like how you need to think of what could possibly happen and try and avoid it. I drive over thicket and small bushes, branches and when in deep ruts things can catch and pull off brake pipes.

View attachment 312075

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I couldn't get shoe brake linings as in one piece (shoe and lining fitted) so I had to scrap/wire brush off the old lining from the existing shoes and rivet new ones on.

View attachment 312076
Perfect!!

View attachment 312088
I used this Draper Vacuum Kit to bleed the brakes after I was done with fitting new bits and replace the system with fresh brake fluid. The brake fluid reservoir also got cleaned out in the process. If I remember correctly this tool drew the fluid from the reservoir forcing it through the cylinder. I never tried the reverse method using syringes but will. The Draper tool was borrowed. They aren't expensive to buy. Clean and flush well with mild soapy water before storing.

My efforts paid off! Investing in a flare tool, new nipples, brake line, cylinders and brake linings did the job. I haven't driven the series since December 2022 and the brakes are still as was repaired. Bloody good!!

After the gearbox it will be a revisit to the brakes. Remove that is not need, fit was is. I was never happy with the cheap cylinders, the rivet lining method, the T vertical nipple on the near side, and some other minor bits I need to revisit.

When you think of it, you can replace or repair any part of a series without bleeding money. It will take you to any destination you can think of and back and by doing so will still not make you bleed money! I hear people say 'it's uncomfortable, uses too much fuel, heavy to handle..... That could be true and probably is but when you think of what it was made to do, it's shear size and weight and the components it's made from, fuel consumption or being a heavy vehicle to handle isn't something I think about. It has a very distinct sound, look, feel, and even smell.

That is a series Land Rover. Like it or hate it. It's a world class of a 4x4.
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You don't hang about Jimbob great to see you getting stuck in.
 
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Dippypud said:
1. Hand throttles are sometimes taken off if the PTO was removed, usually why they're there in the first place ...
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1. Is a turn signal stalk not a throttle. These were on the series II's, Good ones are very expensive to buy.

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How it was. Simple! High beam switch next to the clutch (you can just about see it) in this phot.

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Inexplicable!! I know the original stalk works so why do this!?? On a series III yes but not on a II....pointless! The bracket belonging to the original stalk was also removed.

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This pile of metal has the most interesting of things you can imagine. I found parts going back as old as I am! Because dad liked people doing things for him he never really knew what was happening. He was good at making sure even old parts were never given away or scrapped. I hope to find the indicator stalk bracket amongst this lot.

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:rolleyes:...good Lord!!

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The time and effort in doing such was not needed. Plain stupidity. That was definitely not 'Less Is More'.

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I'll talk about this later on and what I've done to the original stalk and finding it's bracket. I do however have to accept that I might have to fork out for a new one or look for a used one if it fails to work. Very unlikely to fail because nothing in them are complex or unrepairable.

 
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JIMBOB LR said:
1. Is a turn signal stalk not a throttle. These were on the series II's, Good ones are very expensive to buy.

View attachment 312295
How it was. Simple! High beam switch next to the clutch (you can just about see it) in this phot.

View attachment 312297
Inexplicable!! I know the original stalk works so why do this!?? On a series III yes but not on a II....pointless! The bracket belonging to the original stalk was also removed.

View attachment 312304
This pile of metal has the most interesting of things you can imagine. I found parts going back as old as I am! Because dad liked people doing things for him he never really knew what was happening. He was good at making sure even old parts were never given away or scrapped. I hope to find the indicator stalk bracket amongst this lot.

View attachment 312299
:rolleyes:...good Lord!!

View attachment 312298
The time and effort in doing such was not needed. Plain stupidity. That was definitely not 'Less Is More'.

View attachment 312296

I'll talk about this later on and what I've done to the original stalk and finding it's bracket. I do however have to accept that I might have to fork out for a new one or look for a used one if it fails to work. Very unlikely to fail because nothing in them are complex or unrepairable.

Click to expand...


Sorry, I blame the beer goggles ...
 
I've only just seen the thread, nice back story!

I don't know what you did about the drums, but don't chuck the old ones, get them skimmed if they'll still be vaguely within tolerance. Unless things have changed in the last year the word from parts suppliers is that any drums available now are so badly made that two paces I've used won't stock them, too many returns.
 
boguing said:
I've only just seen the thread, nice back story!

I don't know what you did about the drums, but don't chuck the old ones, get them skimmed if they'll still be vaguely within tolerance. Unless things have changed in the last year the word from parts suppliers is that any drums available now are so badly made that two paces I've used won't stock them, too many returns.
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I ordered new ones from a local supplier which I fitted. They did not fit and were out of shape!

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New or old!? Because of this I sent them back. They had obviously had something done to them. Whatever, I wasn't going to keep them.

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The existing drums worked perfectly even despite the scoring. They fit and work. And yes, if needed I'll have them skimmed later but for now are within tolerance.

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I have new shoes from Mintex which I'll be fitting after I have repaired the gearbox. I know the shoes weren't fitted correctly which lead to the scoring. With the old fitted correctly the adjustment of the shoes was better and the brake pedal needed less effort. As you can see there is a difference in the shoe layout.

1710304516771.png

Perhaps it's not visible but a difference can be seen.

Apart from a back plate that needs new adjuster nuts the brakes are fine and working. I agree with you that some parts being supplied for the Land Rovers are very poorly made. Lights are the worst.
 
I decided to give it a go today. Move that spring inwards as far as possible without making a special tool for it.

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I managed to compress the coil spring enough to see the retention clip but not enough to remove it. Bugger me!! That spring is one tough one!

1711201186287.png

5mm flat bar was no match for it.

Because the motor is good and only thing wrong is the stuck cog that engages with the flywheel I'll repair it and put in back in the series III. Currently the one from the II is what I replaced it with. A tad bigger but fitted.

The starter motor specialist I took it to simply said it's bust!! We shall see about that.
 
JIMBOB LR said:
I decided to give it a go today. Move that spring inwards as far as possible without making a special tool for it.

View attachment 313313
I managed to compress the coil spring enough to see the retention clip but not enough to remove it. Bugger me!! That spring is one tough one!

View attachment 313314
5mm flat bar was no match for it.

Because the motor is good and only thing wrong is the stuck cog that engages with the flywheel I'll repair it and put in back in the series III. Currently the one from the II is what I replaced it with. A tad bigger but fitted.

The starter motor specialist I took it to simply said it's bust!! We shall see about that.
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Yup, that's decided it for me. If my dodgy starter isn't the +ve connection being a bit loose it's going to Mr Morris the Dorking leccy motors specialist.

(I had a horrible accident with suspension spring compressors fifteen or so years ago and was incredibly lucky to escape with a broken finger).
 
PERFORMANCE PARTS - Air Filtration.

I thought I'd give this a go and see/feel the difference. They stated '15% fuel saving and increased performance.' So be it! I parted with my cash. Now, before I go any further I'd like to explain why we get stuffed! The good folk who designed and built the Land Rover Series were intelligent. They wanted maximum output of the vehicles with very little faff! When the faff arose they had a solution in that you'd be able to deal with the faff there and then and move on. Stick to the old good stuff. You won't be disappointed.

Performance enhancer..!?

This filter is meant to be it. Fit and forget your troubles. Your series will purr like a cat and the power will increase to the power of x² i.e., multiplying the quantity by itself or squaring it. Basically you get twice the mileage you once got or dreamed of.

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Easy to fit. You dispose of the original system...oil bath filtration and be done with it.

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This filter is as new as it came. I didn't even cover 10 miles before I took it off!

The sound it made was terrible. The good old sound of a series Land Rover had gone. I didn't notice any increase on performance either. I wasn't at all happy with it and off it went!

Because of how dusty it is over here and the fact that we always run the series with what they came with from the factory without any issues in the past I back tracked my thoughts on this. I removed the air filter bit by bit to find nothing was damaged, clogged or missing. It was perfectly fine. The oil wasn't dirty and at the correct level. I gave it a clean with diesel, let it dry off and refilled it with oil (I think engine oil) as per manual. The air filter element was in good condition and nothing needed replacing.

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Cleaned!

1711549986644.png

New oil. Look at the filter. As good as new. Spotless! Ingenious!

Everything put back and tested. The good old engine sound of the series was back rather than that horrible created by the performance enhancement filter. It would have never lasted and I'm sure let dirt in. Just another item that I don't really need or can rely on.

I don't see the need for performance enhancement parts for Land Rover Series. They were made to be used anywhere and be fixed with minimal fuss.

I converted my distributor to run without contact points. I'll write about that some other time because what was done was a total waste of time, money and regretful.

For me it has not made any sense in upgrading parts to those which are made out to increase performance. I'd say think twice before splashing out. Yes, you can improve on the braking, ignition, headlights but you need to know what is good. The thought of getting better mileage was great at first. In reality servicing and keeping things in order is the only method in getting the most out of your Land Rover Series.

I've never wanted my series to be any different. I've said I'd change to parabolic leaf springs or disc brakes but to be honest if it's drama then no thanks. My series remains just that.
 
There was a time when most working vehicles had oil bath filters. tractors, harvesters did and they worked well. The issues that brought about change were people got lazy and did not like getting messy and cost of units, cheaper just to have a can with easy changeable paper element. The shear size of engines today and the price of oil cost almost as much to change the air cleaner as the sump!
That sort of "mesh performance" filter is utter crap/con.
When I was grass track racing many moons ago ["not much grass", mostly mud or dust depending on weather] I used a paper filter and blew/knocked out the dust between events. Another club member had a mesh filter much like the one above but without the blue inner in search of more power! We called it his stone trap as that was just about all it stopped getting into his engine which did not last long.
 
tottot said:
There was a time when most working vehicles had oil bath filters. tractors, harvesters did and they worked well. The issues that brought about change were people got lazy and did not like getting messy and cost of units, cheaper just to have a can with easy changeable paper element. The shear size of engines today and the price of oil cost almost as much to change the air cleaner as the sump!
That sort of "mesh performance" filter is utter crap/con.
When I was grass track racing many moons ago ["not much grass", mostly mud or dust depending on weather] I used a paper filter and blew/knocked out the dust between events. Another club member had a mesh filter much like the one above but without the blue inner in search of more power! We called it his stone trap as that was just about all it stopped getting into his engine which did not last long.
Click to expand...
🤪
 
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