Land Rover Series 3 completely dead with charged battery.

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Sometimes it just clicks when batt not fully charged
Is it in neutral
Sounds about time to buy some diesel it’s cheap enough now

you need a big socket on crank , it might be 30mm ish
 
Starter gear could be jammed in flywheel , put landrover in gear take hand brake off best put some chocks a little way from wheels especially if on a slope and rock backwards and forward.. Hand brake back on, out of gear then try starter again.
If you chock front wheels then jack one rear wheel up put in 3rd gear turn the rear in forward direction wheel engine should turn you will feel compression fighting against you.[you would really struggle to turn a diesel with a spanner ]
 
Sometimes it just clicks when batt not fully charged
Is it in neutral
Sounds about time to buy some diesel it’s cheap enough now

you need a big socket on crank , it might be 30mm ish
My engine turns by hand , but my starter seems to struggle to turn over, via ignition or via Solenoid bypass straight from battery.

I believe my starter is broken / burnt out

I’m guessing the next plan is to pull it off and take a look at it.

then move on to inspect fuel pipes for blockages and air filters ? Also make sure it has a spark ?

In the past previous tried to start it and seems to have burnt it out.

All advice given has been very helpful ! Had more progress than I was expecting. Gone from dead to lights working and engine turning by hand and starter clicking !
 
Starter gear could be jammed in flywheel , put landrover in gear take hand brake off best put some chocks a little way from wheels especially if on a slope and rock backwards and forward.. Hand brake back on, out of gear then try starter again.
If you chock front wheels then jack one rear wheel up put in 3rd gear turn the rear in forward direction wheel engine should turn you will feel compression fighting against you.[you would really struggle to turn a diesel with a spanner ]
Not really sure how to manage that ? Don’t have a jack ? Would it be safe ??
 
Sometimes it just clicks when batt not fully charged
Is it in neutral
Sounds about time to buy some diesel it’s cheap enough now

you need a big socket on crank , it might be 30mm ish
Got diesel , engine turns by hand ? If that’s what you’re asking , not starting or even struggling to start yet , so I’m guessing it’s the starter
 
Is it petrol or a diesel as if it is now turning over the next steps will be very different.
If it is a is a diesel I would bleed the field system as mentioned above, and then make sure you have the glow plugs working well
As Without them it will not start at all.
If it is a petrol you will need to check there is a good strong spark otherwise it will Not start.
How can I tell if they are working well ??? Glow plugs look fine to me
 

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Electrics seem to be working well at the moment ! After just cleaning the earths. Stuck with starter clicking but engine not turning over

Is the solenoid clicking or the starter ?

This is a solenoid ...unless you have a pre-engage ...
BE-0771.JPG
 
Is the solenoid clicking or the starter ?

This is a solenoid ...unless you have a pre-engage ...
BE-0771.JPG
My solenoid is much larger than that , looks older , diesel 2.25 perkings model. Difficult for me to know which is clicking as they are both so near ? I’m quite novice. Any tips on telling which is clicking ? I’d think it was the starter because I run a lead straight to the starter and it makes the same noise as it does via ignition.
 

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How can I tell if they are working well ??? Glow plugs look fine to me
Check that they are all getting 12v. They look like the old style pigtails. Which are wires in series so if one fails all of the ones after that will stop working. Start with the last one (nearest the bonnet) and check it has 12v and work back towards the bulkhead. If they all do they are likely to be fine. If they do not then even if you get the engine turning it is not going to want to start.

you also mentions is it a 2.25 Perkins? 2.25 is a standard Land Rover engine size. Perkins engine tend to be numeric rather than displacement e.g. Perkins 4203. What makes you think it is a Perkins engine?
 
there is a test procedure in the green bible . link in other post , its using a 12v bulb one side to pos on battery then to earth lead on no1 glow plug , if it does not light then bad earth , then move it to no2 glow plug and test again

best whip starter off 2-3 bolts and test on bench
 
Check that they are all getting 12v. They look like the old style pigtails. Which are wires in series so if one fails all of the ones after that will stop working. Start with the last one (nearest the bonnet) and check it has 12v and work back towards the bulkhead. If they all do they are likely to be fine. If they do not then even if you get the engine turning it is not going to want to start.

you also mentions is it a 2.25 Perkins? 2.25 is a standard Land Rover engine size. Perkins engine tend to be numeric rather than displacement e.g. Perkins 4203. What makes you think it is a Perkins engine?
 
there is a test procedure in the green bible . link in other post , its using a 12v bulb one side to pos on battery then to earth lead on no1 glow plug , if it does not light then bad earth , then move it to no2 glow plug and test again

best whip starter off 2-3 bolts and test on bench
My glow plugs all have 12v and a good signal getting to them , really struggling to remove exhaust maniframe and the exhaust pipe itself to remove the starter motors bolts are ancient and I’m not entirely sure what I’m doing Green bible doesn’t Calls it a 2spanner job but I’ve been stuck like this for two days haha
Any tips would be appreciated , hard to get spanner’s under exhaust joints etc
 
I’m currently trying to get my Series 3 going.

not started for two years since my dad tried.

battery is fully charged but no noise or lights turn on with key is turned. ( only the smooth clicking of the key turning)

Not sure whether it’s a fuse issue
Or a
Earth issue
Or a
Maybe ( but I doubt )an issue with the starter motor

vehicle was driving two years ago.

slightly clueless on how to get it starting again.

would be thankful if some help.
 
My glow plugs all have 12v and a good signal getting to them , really struggling to remove exhaust maniframe and the exhaust pipe itself to remove the starter motors bolts are ancient and I’m not entirely sure what I’m doing Green bible doesn’t Calls it a 2spanner job but I’ve been stuck like this for two days haha
Any tips would be appreciated , hard to get spanner’s under exhaust joints etc
you need a socket with several extensions and possible even wobble bar or UJ joint. It is possible without removing the exhausts manifold but it is easier with the manifold off. Soak the manifold bolts in penetrating fluid for a couple of days and give them a wire brushing in between. they should then either some off easily or snap. wither way you get the manifold off, but if it snaps you will then need new studs and remove the snapped end and replace. I may have been lucky but I have not had a stud snap yet after spending a a few days brushing and penetrating fluid every couple of hours before trying to remove.
 
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