Lack of power?

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Martynports

New Member
Posts
27
Location
Fareham
Hi All,

I have a 1999 Disco TD5 Auto and have a bit of a strange problem. More often than not I loose all power under 2k ish RPM.

Being an auto, this makes pulling out at junctions a real hair raising experience as it's completely random.

So far, I've had the faulty injector wiring harness (full of oil) replaced, all connectors cleaned up, a new MAF and my gearbox / engine scanned for fault codes with no fault found.

Where should I be looking next? Wastegate? Fuel filter?

Cheers in advance!
 
there are some cheap and easy things which you must be certain of before diagnosing further: fuel and air filters, EGR valve to not be clogged if it's not bypassed, clean the MAP sensor, see if the FPR is not leaking, the wastegate not sticking
 
Lovely, thank you. I had heard of the wastegate issue and thought that may of been a possibility. The air filter is clear, I'll replace the fuel filter first as it does look kinda old! Then research the wastegate stuff!
 
Can you get someone to read your live MAF output? Someone with a Hawkeye or Nanocom will be able to do it. My understanding is that the idle reading should be somewhere around 60 and the wide open throttle around 600 - if your MAF is only reading 30 and 300s, then the MAF is faulty or dirty.

You could confirm this by swapping a known good one with yours and then take your D2 for a short spin - the difference will be immediately obvious. I did this with a friend yesterday - it was an easy 2 minute job.

You could also check the vacuum hoses, boost hoses, wastegate actuator etc etc. To be honest I usually change all these when I first buy a used car - they're not that expensive and are usually easy to swap out.
 
Well I've had the map out this evening and cleaned it off. It was pretty dirty! I'll change the fuel filter at the weekend and if I can get an EGR blanking kit in time, fit that. Currently the issue is still there, no leaks on the FPR, a brand new land rover MAF and LR injector harness. It's still intermittent. Let's hope we can crack this! :)
 
make sure the wastegate rod is not sticking .... give it a good amount of WD40, undo the two nuts from the valve, release the valve and move the rod togerher with the valve back and for'th few times... you can also grab it with mole grips and force it in-out but it's harder and you could hurt the diaphragm of the valve
 
Hi Everyone, me again....

Well I'm nearly out of (cheaper / DIY) options with the old girl.

So far the following has been replaced (All genuine LR Parts)
MAF Sensor
MAP Sensor
Injector Harness
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Wastegate Solenoid

The Wastegate rod is free, and after putting a tie wrap round it and going for a drive, I can see that it is actually moving.

I have removed the EGR and fitted a Britpart blanking kit. I have also removed the intercooler and cleaned this, checked all hoses and pipework. There are no blockages or breaks / cracks.

When everything is functioning as it should, its a completely different car, it really does drive spot on as well as 'lifting her skirts and running' for a heavy old girl.

BUT, intermittently (read more often than not) it still bogs down below 2200 RPM, this is noticeable when pulling away and also once the TC has locked up and the RPM's are low. I often have no choice to kick down which is frustrating on many levels. The only thing I can see is that it tends to only play up once she has warmed up, but, it has done it before when it was cool.

It's been plugged in and there are no fault codes present on either the engine or the box.

Sadly, the mechanic at the garage I'm using and I both drove another TD5 auto he had in which has known gearbox problems and it drove exactly the same.

I'm starting to wonder if it could be a problem with either the box or the Torque Converter?

I plan to do the stall test when it is next playing up to see what the results are. I will most certainly keep you all posted. In the meantime, if anyone has any further advice, I'd be most grateful.
 
as it does it when warm random like i was thinking injector copper seal on there way out remove fuel pump if you have a lot of soot in the diesel tank then thats the might be the problem
 
Martynports said:
Hi Everyone, me again....

Well I'm nearly out of (cheaper / DIY) options with the old girl.

So far the following has been replaced (All genuine LR Parts)
MAF Sensor
MAP Sensor
Injector Harness
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Wastegate Solenoid

The Wastegate rod is free, and after putting a tie wrap round it and going for a drive, I can see that it is actually moving.

I have removed the EGR and fitted a Britpart blanking kit. I have also removed the intercooler and cleaned this, checked all hoses and pipework. There are no blockages or breaks / cracks.

When everything is functioning as it should, its a completely different car, it really does drive spot on as well as 'lifting her skirts and running' for a heavy old girl.

BUT, intermittently (read more often than not) it still bogs down below 2200 RPM, this is noticeable when pulling away and also once the TC has locked up and the RPM's are low. I often have no choice to kick down which is frustrating on many levels. The only thing I can see is that it tends to only play up once she has warmed up, but, it has done it before when it was cool.

It's been plugged in and there are no fault codes present on either the engine or the box.

Sadly, the mechanic at the garage I'm using and I both drove another TD5 auto he had in which has known gearbox problems and it drove exactly the same.

I'm starting to wonder if it could be a problem with either the box or the Torque Converter?

I plan to do the stall test when it is next playing up to see what the results are. I will most certainly keep you all posted. In the meantime, if anyone has any further advice, I'd be most grateful.
Click to expand...


So to summarise if I've understood you correctly: you have a TD5 auto and it lacks power below 2200rpms?

"They all do that sir" - a sure fire cure is to have a it re-mapped by someone such as Mike at Dynachip.

I had a 2002 TD5 auto and it was sluggish on hills and when towing. This was particularly annoying as the TC would lock-up at about 55mph but if I gave it too much pedal it would unlock. This was due entirely to too little torque below 2200rpms.

After the remap the situation was transformed beyond belief! Now she would sail up the steepest of hills without any apparent effort. The "de-locking of the TC no longer happened because I wasn't having to give her too much pedal.

Mine felt like she should have felt "straight from the factory" - it was the single best thing I spent on that car. When I get another one (actively looking right now) I will not hesitate to have Mike fettle it.


Dave
 
Thanks Dave that's a real help. The main problem is that some days it flys along and flys up the hills, but other days, it doesn't. This is what leads me to believe that it's a fault, rather than a characteristic. However, I may be completely wrong!
 
Martynports said:
Thanks Dave that's a real help. The main problem is that some days it flys along and flys up the hills, but other days, it doesn't. This is what leads me to believe that it's a fault, rather than a characteristic. However, I may be completely wrong!
Click to expand...

Hi Martyn? It may be a fault but you've already replaced most of the things which go faulty and cause these symptoms.

I recommended a re-map from Mike; the only other thing to consider changing is the TC. The reason why I say this is because there is now a modified TC available with a lower stall speed and a heavy duty flex plate.

With this fixed the relationship between the engine and autobox are improved radically. Gone is all that revving without forward motion. It's about £250 fitting though?????

Do the stall test and see how you get on. My moneys still on a re-map though ;);)
 
Hi All,

Well. I'm still experiencing this intermittent problem. As a clear and concise update please see below.

The fault is that the car will only start to move above 2100RPM intermittently. Some day's its fine for days on ends, and repeated engine starts, other days it faults constantly.

No matter whether you select 1st on the autobox or D, cycle through all of the gear selector positions before going to D, it will still do it. It Starts on the button, doesn't smoke or idle roughly.

It has had the MAF, MAP, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Wastegate Solenoid and injector harness replaced. Its been de-EGR'd and all of the connectors have been cleaned along with the main harness drained of oil. The wategate is not sticking and the turbo spins up freely.

Its been to an Independant Land Rover Specialist who have had it in their workshop and plugged into their diagnostics which cannot find any fault.

There are no obvious boost leaks either.

I think (and correct me if I'm wrong) that the only possible things left that could be at fault are:

1) Fuel Pump
2) Fuel Pressure Regulator
3) A boost leak (but would / could this be intermittent?)
4) Throttle Pedal Sensor
5) Some 'Driver Demand Box' or something like that? I heard it mentioned at the LR specialist, but can't remember exactly what they called it?

To top it all off, the warranty from the Dealer runs out end of Feb, so I'd like to get it fixed before then. However, no one can find what is wrong with it and they won't replace suspect parts, only known faulty parts. :(

Any ideas?
 
Hi Martyn, I'm going to try and help you but my first port of call would be the supplying dealer. You say the vehicle is under warranty, so why not take it back to them to sort out? That's what a warranty is for isn't it?


Anyway, if it were mine and no longer under warranty I would be doing the following, is no particular order:

1. Check the filter filter for leaks, and replace the air-bleed valve in the attaching pipe;

2. Remove the in-tank fuel pump and check the gauze filter in the bottom of it for black muck. If there is any, clean it off then carefully re-install;

3. If there was black muck on the pump filter, it usually indicates a problem with the injector seals, so have them replaced with proper LR ones;

4. Have the vehicles' systems interrogated with a dedicated LR diagnostic terminal, not a generic one. The reason for this is that until 2005, this car was not OBD compliant, so a generic diagnostic will not work properly. It will also not give access to the other electronic systems on the vehicle such as SLABS/BCU/or EATS.

5. I would want to see results from 'Live data' arising from the MAF, the MAP, the Wastegate Modulator, the AFP sensor in the airbox lid and most importantly the 'Cylinder balance' results.

My guess would be there's something quite simple, such as a broken wire, which is leading to this intermittent problem.

Good luck

Dave
 
jamesmartin said:
wont move until 2100 revs doesnt sound like engine fault
Click to expand...

If he means the car doesn't budge at all, but I took him to mean that the vehicle doesn't starting really getting going - ie it's sluggish below 2100rpm.


If it doesn't move AT ALL below 2100rpm then there's a transmission problem.

But reading his previous posts I don't think he means that??????
 
thebiglad said:
If he means the car doesn't budge at all, but I took him to mean that the vehicle doesn't starting really getting going - ie it's sluggish below 2100rpm.


If it doesn't move AT ALL below 2100rpm then there's a transmission problem.

But reading his previous posts I don't think he means that??????
Click to expand...

fair enough :)
 
Hey,

Thanks for the advice, I don't mean that it doesn't move full stop, just the fact that it is incredibly sluggish to pull off. For example, if i'm on a steep hill from standstill, i have had to engage low range in order to get rolling before whacking it back to high whilst rolling in order to move until it hits 2100 RPM.
 
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