Heater low temperature, lack of power, connected?

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Russell Marlow

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38
Location
Surrey
I posted yesterday about low heater temperature but re post having learnt more in the hope a TD5 expert can help!

I have previously been trying to sort out a lack of ooomph! up hills it is gutless and I suspect top end though it is not pushed fast on the whole. It does seem over 70 is just runs out of steam if I try it and I know over 16 yrs we had it she will if pushed carry on way past that.

I have recently noticed the heater is only warm...not nice and hot, of course it may have been this way for some time and not noticed until cooler weather!

I am sure the heater is fine, no airlocks etc...it gets warmish.

Today I drove with hawkeye on and the coolant did not get over 81 degrees assuming the car sender is correct. All hoses in the car were no more than 50 ish degrees. Both heater hoses similar temperature.

I now wonder if the power loss and cool running (though gauge is midway) are connected? Thermostat??

I believe it has a bypass valve which if faulty can cause strange issues.
 
Russell Marlow said:
I now wonder if the power loss and cool running (though gauge is midway) are connected? Thermostat??
Click to expand...
It's the other way around... with low coolant temp and fuel temp input it should be more "nervous" than at normal operating temp.... see the fuel temp live input, at around 80*C coolant temp it shoudl be at least 10 dergrees lower...if the FT input is high the ECU is reducing the fuelling which is the same for high coolant temp too when the gauge goes to the red one which is not the case here
 
I think I understand that thanks....so I need to look at fuel temperature too? Are there any things I could look at for its gutless performance?
Turbo boost seems fine.
Coolant temp is low 80 degrees so thermostat to do.
Not had EGR for many years.
Only fault I pick up is EGR of course and for years high manifold pressure I cant fathom out but it always drove fine like that.
No other obvious issues though I am not knowledgable enough to know what readings some live data should give.
I love the old truck.....but really need to sort it.
 

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I will do thanks...may be a while, have a funeral to deal with. It always drove fine even with the high pressure reading which without the Hawkeye would have been unknown. Thanks again.
 
sierrafery said:
Then read all live inputs at idle and the manifold pressure under load and post here the results
Click to expand...
Hi, just picking up on this now. The distractions are sorted and I had a few other jobs to do before getting to the gutless performance. Thermostat done and it warms up now and maintains temperature BUT the heater is still only mlldly warm on full heat....it used to burn skin off in the past! Front propshaft repaired too.
I will get onto the readings with Hawkeye soon now and come back with results.....it remains gutless but seemingly turbo boost fine.
 
I have been lazy on the gutless truck with other family cars etc to sort...but it potters around. Yesterday I got to it proper using on a longer run and playing with Hawkeye along the way. I was alone so not easy.
Using the list kindly provided.
MAF seems good. A little high at idle 65-70 but seems to be fine up to maximum throttle/load.

Ambient Pressure AAP seems good, maybe 101 dropping to 98/99 as revs build.

Inlet Air Temp.....high, 30 plus rising to 42 grinding slowly due to lack of power up long motorway hill.

Coolant Temp spot on in range having done thermostat.

Fuel Temp yes acceptably less than coolant temp.

I am not sure about the Hawkeye pressure readings, it has two more. on the tool. One reads about 230 at idloe or coasting and immediatly exactly 100 if the throttle is touched at all.

Also throttle pedal readings. assuming these are Driver demand on hawkeye.
1 is 0.53v to 3.76v
2 is 4.52v to 1.28v
3 is static at5 and bit V but not sure its for my car??
So these are bit off the range given on the list kindly provided.

The truck for many years has code for high manifold pressure after every drive, a new sensor did not cure it BUT it has always driven fine. The loss of power was relatively sudden. In context it is smooth, chugs around, does not smoke or burn oil, had super clean mot fast pass.

Power under load is shocking, 70mph is hard work give it a long motorway incline and it can grind down to 50 max 4th gear!

I can push the accelerator up and down and nothing happens not even a change in note.

Sorry its a long post!
 
Last edited:
So there are 4 pressure readings on Hawkeye. The pressure high fault code again was present as it has been for many years to no ill affect. It has EGR delete too by the way so always get EGR fault code haha!

Just read these on the drive running but no load....seemed similar driving.
Ambient Pressure 96.7kpa
Ambient Pressure Raw 97.2

Manifold Pressure 220 idling drops using throttle to exactly 100.0 as it did driving, 220-230 coasting down hill, dropping back to exactly 100 throttle depressed.
Manifold Pressure Raw 221.7 at idle but this one seems to climb a bit building revs off load to 247.
 
Russell Marlow said:
Manifold Pressure 220 idling drops using throttle to exactly 100.0 as it did driving, 220-230 coasting down hill, dropping back to exactly 100 throttle depressed.
Manifold Pressure Raw 221.7 at idle but this one seems to climb a bit building revs off load to 247.
Click to expand...
So that's definitely a big problem, now unplug the MAP sensor and read that way, eventually drive test it with sensor unplugged.... as you replaced the sensor seems that it's a wiring issue on that path or the ECU has a fault
 
sierrafery said:
So that's definitely a big problem, now unplug the MAP sensor and read that way, eventually drive test it with sensor unplugged.... as you replaced the sensor seems that it's a wiring issue on that path or the ECU has a fault
Click to expand...
thanks, ok I shall do that over coming days and report back. As I said the fault codes have for many years said the manifold pressure has been high but it drove just fine.
 
Russell Marlow said:
thanks, ok I shall do that over coming days and report back. As I said the fault codes have for many years said the manifold pressure has been high but it drove just fine.
Click to expand...
Maybe things got worst in time cos based on the actual MAP reading it's obvious that it instantly goes to overboost so the lack of power is normal for that default
 
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