niccage
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KV6 Freelander, no drive in any gear! 2WD conversion
- Thread starter niccage
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niccage
Active Member
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Ok fo the first photo, hope this negative cable is connected in the right place on the gearbox..
This is that long skinny cable i was talking about.
The next 2 fotos are the cables not conected anywhere..
Iknow someone on here previously asked what colour the warning lights on the dash are, they are yellow
This is that long skinny cable i was talking about.
The next 2 fotos are the cables not conected anywhere..
Iknow someone on here previously asked what colour the warning lights on the dash are, they are yellow
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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Yer yellow lights are: traction control, abs and hill descent fail.
All 3 on at the same time is caused by a number of faults. Could be simple like missing earth on the abs or failed open circuit sensor. A good code reader will get the codes to tell you what's up but not many will talk with the abs and auto gearbox computers. They will be in the abs computer but the engine computer may or may not have a code too. You could measure the abs sensor resistances as mentioned before. Also check the wiring for damage going into the abs unit behind the headlight on the coolant tank reservoir side of the engine bay.
All 3 on at the same time is caused by a number of faults. Could be simple like missing earth on the abs or failed open circuit sensor. A good code reader will get the codes to tell you what's up but not many will talk with the abs and auto gearbox computers. They will be in the abs computer but the engine computer may or may not have a code too. You could measure the abs sensor resistances as mentioned before. Also check the wiring for damage going into the abs unit behind the headlight on the coolant tank reservoir side of the engine bay.
niccage
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Hi all,
I used a code reader i purchased about a year ago on ebay, didnt work on my 2000K 1.8 Freebie so i put it away, didnt know i'd need it till now - and it works in the 2001KV6!
3 codes came up as follows:
Code 1: P0138 - 02 sensor circuit high voltage (bank 1 sensor 2).
Code 2: P0138 "Pending" 02 sensor circuit high voltage (bank 1, sensor 2).
Code 3: P0335 "Pending" Crankshaft Position sensor A circuit.
Hippo - I carried out those tests with my multimeter on the twist type connector for pins 3, then 4 followed by 7 and 8 with the other test lead on the metal case. Nothing at all. No readings. I tried all settings of the multimeter resistance levels. When you say that the other test lead, the negative, goes on the metal case, i put the test lead on the outside gearbox case (notthe fluid pan case) didnt have the fluid pan case as i sprayed degreaser all over it and let it soak to get the old silicone sealant off. Isn't it the same? I mean, did i obtain nil reading because i failed to scan on the black fluid pan case? Does this indicate a major problem? Cheers, Niccage.
I used a code reader i purchased about a year ago on ebay, didnt work on my 2000K 1.8 Freebie so i put it away, didnt know i'd need it till now - and it works in the 2001KV6!
3 codes came up as follows:
Code 1: P0138 - 02 sensor circuit high voltage (bank 1 sensor 2).
Code 2: P0138 "Pending" 02 sensor circuit high voltage (bank 1, sensor 2).
Code 3: P0335 "Pending" Crankshaft Position sensor A circuit.
Hippo - I carried out those tests with my multimeter on the twist type connector for pins 3, then 4 followed by 7 and 8 with the other test lead on the metal case. Nothing at all. No readings. I tried all settings of the multimeter resistance levels. When you say that the other test lead, the negative, goes on the metal case, i put the test lead on the outside gearbox case (notthe fluid pan case) didnt have the fluid pan case as i sprayed degreaser all over it and let it soak to get the old silicone sealant off. Isn't it the same? I mean, did i obtain nil reading because i failed to scan on the black fluid pan case? Does this indicate a major problem? Cheers, Niccage.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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Measuring from 1 pin to the metal case anywhere on the auto is enough. If the sensor wires were cut then you would hope it's caught on the metal and would give a reading of short circuit from pin to metal case. The fact 2 sensors read open circuit in the same area of the gearbox is a bit of a coincidence. Unless they're linked in some way with a common. I will test mine tomorrow for you.
How many seals on the auto did you reseal? Did you reseal the middle seal which sits between the torque convertor part of the case and the section where the clutch packs are? If so could you have done something to stop the sensors reading?
DKW
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niccage
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Thanks for that Dkw, what do you mean by "facility connector"? Nothing to do with the fuel pump?
I am quite sure my problem is with the Jatco gearbox. Furthermore, when I attempted to test some of the pins on the connector in the ECU housing as opposed to the twist type ones, I didn't get any reading for one, but I could have been sure I heard an electrical type buzzing sound for a while coming from inside the gearbox casing. So, I'm thinking it looks like the problem is there.
This weekend gone I've been removing the gearbox, following the RAVE. I didnt have to follow the RAVE as i know it off by heart, i know what comes when, interestingly, i didnt have to remove the rear sub frame and RAVE says to do so to remove the IRD. I separated the IRD from the gearbox but i only rested it on top of the subframe as opposed to completely removing the IRD, so that should save some time.
Next saturday, I'm up to the step of hooking up the Jatco to the engine crane and lowering it on to my waiting trolley. I've already rung a gearbox specialist and he's asked me to bring it in to his workshop at Chipping Norton in Sth Western Sydney to have a lot at. Sounds reasonable, I've seen him mentioned by other posters here, plus the person on the phone who I was tranferred to was the president of the company himself, Craig, and sounds like they have good experiences with this gearbox.
My mistake which I've learnt from is that I should've take the Jatco to a gearbox specialist previously as I did with my manual PG1 gearbox back in 2012 when I renewed the head gasket on my 1.8 K series Freelander, the V6's baby brother, the gearbox specialist checked it all out and certified it as working, now 2014, still hasn't missed a beat. In fact, he said that if people changed their manual gearbox fluids regularly and on time and didn't abuse their gearbox when they drove, that he thinks he probably wouldn't be getting any more work..
So will post an update in about a week's time, thanks everyone.
Regards,
Niccage.
I am quite sure my problem is with the Jatco gearbox. Furthermore, when I attempted to test some of the pins on the connector in the ECU housing as opposed to the twist type ones, I didn't get any reading for one, but I could have been sure I heard an electrical type buzzing sound for a while coming from inside the gearbox casing. So, I'm thinking it looks like the problem is there.
This weekend gone I've been removing the gearbox, following the RAVE. I didnt have to follow the RAVE as i know it off by heart, i know what comes when, interestingly, i didnt have to remove the rear sub frame and RAVE says to do so to remove the IRD. I separated the IRD from the gearbox but i only rested it on top of the subframe as opposed to completely removing the IRD, so that should save some time.
Next saturday, I'm up to the step of hooking up the Jatco to the engine crane and lowering it on to my waiting trolley. I've already rung a gearbox specialist and he's asked me to bring it in to his workshop at Chipping Norton in Sth Western Sydney to have a lot at. Sounds reasonable, I've seen him mentioned by other posters here, plus the person on the phone who I was tranferred to was the president of the company himself, Craig, and sounds like they have good experiences with this gearbox.
My mistake which I've learnt from is that I should've take the Jatco to a gearbox specialist previously as I did with my manual PG1 gearbox back in 2012 when I renewed the head gasket on my 1.8 K series Freelander, the V6's baby brother, the gearbox specialist checked it all out and certified it as working, now 2014, still hasn't missed a beat. In fact, he said that if people changed their manual gearbox fluids regularly and on time and didn't abuse their gearbox when they drove, that he thinks he probably wouldn't be getting any more work..
So will post an update in about a week's time, thanks everyone.
Regards,
Niccage.
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yu didnt undo the wrong plug underneath, did yu - that can cause loss of drive - see the CFAQ section?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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Was the battery connected?
Measuring the resistances and finding them open circuit on the blue connector at the computer end would suggest a broken sensor or cable. Could be a damaged wiring harness so do the same test on the barrel connector. If still open circuit and harness from the barrel connector to gearbox is ok, then that would suggest a fault inside the gearbox: eg broken cable or sensor.
niccage
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Battery was definitely disconnected when i did that test.
Should i do the same tests, both the twist type connectors and C90.. connector with it connected?
On each occasion i did the test, the battery was definitely d/c.
Niccage.
Should i do the same tests, both the twist type connectors and C90.. connector with it connected?
On each occasion i did the test, the battery was definitely d/c.
Niccage.
niccage
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Hi Mad Hat, definitely didnt undo the wrong plug, aware of that 
Cage.
Cage.
DKW
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LPG ECU connector to make contact imperfect and disrupt both ECU, engine and gearbox
Sorry, i use Google Translate...
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Lpg?
DKW
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On my KV6 I have fitted an LPG installation, the imperfect contact of a LPG ECU connector made same behavior, so i think it would be an electric issue.
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Ah! That makes sense now .
Most peeps don't use LPG on K series because of the increased risk of HGF.
.Most peeps don't use LPG on K series because of the increased risk of HGF.
DKW
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More info, pls?
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