key Fob/Central locking

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
F

Frank_the-tank

New Member
Posts
8
Key Fob/Central Locking.

My names Frank_the-tank and im a new P38 owner! (what have i done...)

Mine is a 1995 4.0L GEMS Automatic Flavour and i love it to pieces. Im from North West Midlands UK and my background is military mechanical engineering, classic car restoration and engine rebuilds, focussing on mostly Triumphs, MG's, VW's, Jensen Healeys and anything Rover V8. pre-ECU stuff. carbs, distributors, yknow? the "good old days".

However, ive reached a stage where driving around classic cars ive either restored or made myself has got pretty impractical and wanted to reach for a more "modern" vehicle to rely on. hence the foray into this one (i know.. a potential mistake ha).

Honestly? i cant fault the thing do far. 140000 on the clock and its fab, used it for the past month... but (here it comes...).
The problem is, ive only got one keyfob for the car and the keyfob only works manually (inserting into lock and turning).
I was told strictly by the previous owner not to use the central locking (on the button) as it locks you out (EKA code and the secret handshake with the drivers side doorlock to get yourself back in).

i dont know if this keyfob is original to the car or not. BUT he did give me a Landrover Security Info card with the relevant info on for the BeCM (EKA Code etc).

Now i dont mind just using the key manually in the drivers side to lock/unlock the car. however, im getting quite anxious about the wear and tear on the lock over time, as it doesnt feel fantastic even now.

So would be very grateful if there was anyone on here who could sign post me to someone, a thread or a company who could:

1. Sort my key fob and BeCM out so that they accept and understand eachother so i can use the central locking.
2. potentially sort me a second key.

Im not mechanically or technically inept, so would be interested to find out (and ould honestly prefer it) if it was something i could do myself, but im willing to accept it if not.

Thank you in advance for any help or advice.
 
brianp38dse said:
For new keys, it is go to JLR dealer and they order you a new one pre programmed for a lot of money or have a chat with classic rides north wales who can sort out a clone key which is probable your best bet, there was a guy on here @MrSporty who could test and fix keys.
Click to expand...
i tried the JLR dealer route first, but couldnt find any contact details of who to speak to.

Ive read the other threads and heard of the illusive MrSporty, and have direct messaged him and emailed his company, awaiting reply.

Id not heard of Classic Rides North Wales though, worth a check out. thank you very much.

Id quite like to know more about it though if any one on here knows:
Does the key make contact to the BeCM directly, or through the outstation/RF Receiver?
Is there a way of deciphering the key code that the BeCM encrypts so that i can copy it and reprogramme the BeCM to recognise a new fob?
 
Genuine LR second key is a LR dealer only option. Worth it I think... it's always nice to have a second car key. You need to go to the LR dealer in person and order it from the spares dept though. You can't re-program an old used key to your car, they're a custom build job I'm afraid. You could get a new key blade cut though, and that would work manually like you're doing now.

Classic Rides North will clone your current key, but I think we should get that working before you go to the expense of cloning it.

I can't understand why your current fob should lock you out straight away though? It'll either unlock the car, or if it's not
synced to the car it won't do anything!

The key when pressed transmits to a receiver that's located drivers side behind the side parcel shelf thing by the window. When in reciept of a valid code from the key the BECM unlocks the car and mobilises the engine.

The fob won't do anything until it's sync'd to the car though. Have you tried to do that? I think it's in the handbook.

If you haven't done so already, download RAVE. It's the official LR workshop manual, and will be invaluable for you going forward.

www.landyzone.co.uk

Other - Rave and Microcat downloads plus other useful info on range rovers

Hi all, At this link, you will find various Range rover information and downloads. I take no responsibility for anything contained here and will only host it as long as nobody tells me I am contravening any copyright. Any hint that I might get in trouble and the link will be disabled...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
Do you have yo use the EKA code when you unlock with the key? If not, the function has been turned off in the BECM and so whatever you do with the FOB should not require you to use the EKA code. When you unlock with the key, do all doors unlock? If not you need to do the drivers door lock micros switch test because if the switches are not working as they should, it can inhibit the function of the FOB.
 
MrGorsky said:
Genuine LR second key is a LR dealer only option. Worth it I think... it's always nice to have a second car key. You need to go to the LR dealer in person and order it from the spares dept though. You can't re-program an old used key to your car, they're a custom build job I'm afraid. You could get a new key blade cut though, and that would work manually like you're doing now.

Classic Rides North will clone your current key, but I think we should get that working before you go to the expense of cloning it.

I can't understand why your current fob should lock you out straight away though? It'll either unlock the car, or if it's not
synced to the car it won't do anything!

The key when pressed transmits to a receiver that's located drivers side behind the side parcel shelf thing by the window. When in reciept of a valid code from the key the BECM unlocks the car and mobilises the engine.

The fob won't do anything until it's sync'd to the car though. Have you tried to do that? I think it's in the handbook.

If you haven't done so already, download RAVE. It's the official LR workshop manual, and will be invaluable for you going forward.

www.landyzone.co.uk

Other - Rave and Microcat downloads plus other useful info on range rovers

Hi all, At this link, you will find various Range rover information and downloads. I take no responsibility for anything contained here and will only host it as long as nobody tells me I am contravening any copyright. Any hint that I might get in trouble and the link will be disabled...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
ah thanks for the info. all the prvious owner said was not to use the fob.

i have since got back in touch with him, hes not entirely sure himself and hes said that he was told previously that the car needs a new RF reciever.

so it might be worth looking into a green dot, as i think the one thats on it is a first version unit. or would i be wasting my money?

i think a spare key cut would be fine, but the main key i would like the fob to work with the central locking.

ill pull my socks up and try to sync the key first. thank you for the Rave idea, just downloading it now. although ive got the "locking unlocking constantly" problem at the minute which started a couple of days ago, so i guess first things first is troubleshooting the actuator units in the front and getting replacements for them before getting fancy with a key haha.
 
Datatek said:
Do you have yo use the EKA code when you unlock with the key? If not, the function has been turned off in the BECM and so whatever you do with the FOB should not require you to use the EKA code. When you unlock with the key, do all doors unlock? If not you need to do the drivers door lock micros switch test because if the switches are not working as they should, it can inhibit the function of the FOB.
Click to expand...
hi, no i do not have to use the eka code every time i unlock with the key. and the EKA has not been turned off in the BeCM, the first thing i did was plug my diagnostics unit in to check settings etc.

when i unlock the drivers door with the key, all the doors unlock with it. so i know its all linked and atleast those micro switches are working. however the last few days ive had the "unlocking locking unlocking locking constantly" problem, so i think one of the door actuator units needs looking at first. ive taken the DS door card off and found which unit i have with the integrated socket. so will look at a replacement one for drivers side first and go from there.
 
My understanding is classic rides will give you a new key not a clone of your current one. You have to say do you want number 1/2/3/4 depending on what you already have.

I might be mistaken though.. it's been a couple of years since i contacted them
 
So the first itteration of the RF unit isn't worth the plastic it's printed on. Built for a pre-internet age it's no good at filtering out possible key signals from any remote doorbell, weather station, security camera, or anything else that might transmit anything on a similar frequency.

The problem with them is that they flatten the battery by constantly waking the BECM up every 5 mins.... and so people just unplug the antenna as a cheap fix. If yours is unplugged you might still make the key work, but you'll have to press your remote right next to the rear drivers side window to have a hope of the signal being picked up.

No point in buying a mk1 or mk2 RF receiver in my opinion. Bite the bullet and get the mk3 that filters out everything except P38 keys. I think someone on here makes a filter that you can attach to an older version to help it, but I don't know much about them.

Better to take the side parcel shelf off in the boot and see whats what on your car at the moment. You'll know where to go from there then.
 
Last edited:
Frank_the-tank said:
hi, no i do not have to use the eka code every time i unlock with the key. and the EKA has not been turned off in the BeCM, the first thing i did was plug my diagnostics unit in to check settings etc.

when i unlock the drivers door with the key, all the doors unlock with it. so i know its all linked and atleast those micro switches are working. however the last few days ive had the "unlocking locking unlocking locking constantly" problem, so i think one of the door actuator units needs looking at first. ive taken the DS door card off and found which unit i have with the integrated socket. so will look at a replacement one for drivers side first and go from there.
Click to expand...
What diagnostics do you have, most diagnostics are not compatible with the P38 so you may not be getting the correct response regarding the EKA function, either that or something must have been bodged. If the EKA function is in the "ON" state, the the code has to be entered every time you use the key blade. It's the Emergency Key Access function that instructs the BECM to send the mobilisation code to the engine in the absence of the rolling code from the FOB.
 
Datatek said:
What diagnostics do you have, most diagnostics are not compatible with the P38 so you may not be getting the correct response regarding the EKA function, either that or something must have been bodged. If the EKA function is in the "ON" state, the the code has to be entered every time you use the key blade. It's the Emergency Key Access function that instructs the BECM to send the mobilisation code to the engine in the absence of the rolling code from the FOB.
Click to expand...
i use the EAS Unlock V4 currently, which is compatible.

so what youre saying then is that the key i have is correct and that its fob is programmed and compatible with my becm. otherwise it would be throing me into EKA mode every time?

if that is the case then, my key and fob are correct and the only thing that would stop it working would be a faulty RF receiver, which makes sense from what the previous owner mentioned. (talked about green dot etc).

if you read further above, me pressing the fob doesnt enact EKA mode. the previous owner stated this. i have never tried using the fob as i saw no need to as the key works fine.

thank you for the information and insight! i understand what the eka does, what it is and how it functions. im just trying to work out why my key fob wont work :D

your comment has moved me closer to the problem, which im vey grateful for.
 
MrGorsky said:
So the first itteration of the RF unit isn't worth the plastic it's printed on. Built for a pre-internet age it's no good at filtering out possible key signals from any remote doorbell, weather station, security camera, or anything else that might transmit anything on a similar frequency.

The problem with them is that they flatten the battery by constantly waking the BECM up every 5 mins.... and so people just unplug the antenna as a cheap fix. If yours is unplugged you might still make the key work, but you'll have to press your remote right next to the rear drivers side window to have a hope of the signal being picked up.

No point in buying a mk1 or mk2 RF receiver in my opinion. Bite the bullet and get the mk3 that filters out everything except P38 keys. I think someone on here makes a filter that you can attach to an older version to help it, but I don't know much about them.

Better to take the side parcel shelf off in the boot and see whats what on your car at the moment. You'll know where to go from there then.
Click to expand...
incredible information, thank you so much for the insight.

An RF unit sounds like the culprit really then.
Where would the antenna for it be on the vehicle?
if thats been removed on mine, it would make sense. hence what the previous owner has done, or had someone do, to get things working again.
 
The antenna is in the window next to the door pillar, it plugs directly into the receiver. That's just behind the button to release the back seat.
With respect to the green dot, they were more expensive than the original version so people were buying a sheet of green dots, putting them on the worthless receivers and selling on eBay etc
 
kermit_rr said:
The antenna is in the window next to the door pillar, it plugs directly into the receiver. That's just behind the button to release the back seat.
With respect to the green dot, they were more expensive than the original version so people were buying a sheet of green dots, putting them on the worthless receivers and selling on eBay etc
Click to expand...
thank you for the location info, will have a dig out tomorrow.

and also the warning about the green dots! my first action was to find pictures of what the internals of the three versions looked like so i could tell them apart (as the housings all look the same) then chose one online that showed the internals of the receiver they were selling.
 
It's all pre ODBII so some modules will be readable from a bog standard reader, but most won't I'm afraid.

I suggest you check your RF box. Plug it in if it isn't and try to sync your fob. You won't flatten the battery on 10 mins of testing. If you can get it to work, then you know your fob is good, and you can decide to clone the key, buy a new one from LR and sort your RF unit out if you want to. If you don't then just carry on as you are, at least you know you can get the electronics working if you want to!!!
 
Last edited:
Frank_the-tank said:
i use the EAS Unlock V4 currently, which is compatible.

so what youre saying then is that the key i have is correct and that its fob is programmed and compatible with my becm. otherwise it would be throing me into EKA mode every time?

if that is the case then, my key and fob are correct and the only thing that would stop it working would be a faulty RF receiver, which makes sense from what the previous owner mentioned. (talked about green dot etc).

if you read further above, me pressing the fob doesnt enact EKA mode. the previous owner stated this. i have never tried using the fob as i saw no need to as the key works fine.

thank you for the information and insight! i understand what the eka does, what it is and how it functions. im just trying to work out why my key fob wont work :D

your comment has moved me closer to the problem, which im vey grateful for.
Click to expand...
That is not what I said. If you use the key blade to enter and start the car without entering the EKA code, then either the EKA function is turned off or someone has done a bodge. Pressing the FOB buttons has nothing to do with the EKA code which is relevant only to the key blade.
I have no idea if you have the correct FOB but most likely you have and it has nothing to do with it if you use the key blade to enter and start the car.
If the RF receiver is faulty or disconnected, of course the FOB will not work, likewise, faulty door lock micro switches can stop the FOB opening the car, do the door lock micro switch test.
 
Couple of corrections.

1) Kieth is correct about the EKA, but (sorry Keith), only for the diesel. On GEMS disabling the EKA just prevents you from entering it, but does not stop it being required if only using the key. Yes I've tried it on mine to be sure !! (re-enabled it afterwards)

2) McGorsky, the EAS Unlock V3 only does EAS. The V4 version does everything else except SRS system according to many that have used it. Hence the price reflects that.

Working Diagnostic Sub-Systems
Air Suspension - Read & Clear Faults
Air Suspension - Calibrate Air Suspension
Air Suspension - Air Suspension
Air Suspension - Function Tests
Air Suspension - Live Sensor Readings
Body Control Module - Customize Factory Settings
Body Control Module - Function Tests
Body Control Module - Live Sensor Readings
GEMs Engine - Read & Clear Faults
GEMs Engine - Relearn immobilizer Codes
GEMs Engine - Reset Adaptive Fuel Values
Motronic Engine - Read & Clear Faults
Motronic Engine - Reset Adaptive Fuel Values
HEVAC - Read & Clear Faults
HEVAC - Read & Function Tests
ABS Early- Read & Clear Faults
ABS Late- Read & Clear Faults​

 
pwood999 said:
Couple of corrections.

1) Kieth is correct about the EKA, but (sorry Keith), only for the diesel. On GEMS disabling the EKA just prevents you from entering it, but does not stop it being required if only using the key. Yes I've tried it on mine to be sure !! (re-enabled it afterwards)

2) McGorsky, the EAS Unlock V3 only does EAS. The V4 version does everything else except SRS system according to many that have used it. Hence the price reflects that.

Working Diagnostic Sub-Systems​

Air Suspension - Read & Clear Faults​

Air Suspension - Calibrate Air Suspension​

Air Suspension - Air Suspension​

Air Suspension - Function Tests​

Air Suspension - Live Sensor Readings​

Body Control Module - Customize Factory Settings​

Body Control Module - Function Tests​

Body Control Module - Live Sensor Readings​

GEMs Engine - Read & Clear Faults​

GEMs Engine - Relearn immobilizer Codes​

GEMs Engine - Reset Adaptive Fuel Values​

Motronic Engine - Read & Clear Faults​

Motronic Engine - Reset Adaptive Fuel Values​

HEVAC - Read & Clear Faults​

HEVAC - Read & Function Tests​

ABS Early- Read & Clear Faults​

ABS Late- Read & Clear Faults​

Click to expand...
So how is the OP operating the car using the key blade without entering EKA?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Ahoyhoy! KEY FOBS!!
Replies
1
Views
354
marjon
marjon
M
Central lock
2 3 4
Replies
77
Views
3K
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
Flossie
P38A Central locking query
Replies
13
Views
972
Datatek
Datatek
feyniriel
P38 key not locking the car
Replies
13
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
P
Disco 2 central locking help
Replies
4
Views
655
Anaconda
A
Back
Top