P38A keep trying

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Possibly me who sent out out the sheet with the door lock tests, as I've posted them up in a few places and sent them to people from Facebook groups etc.

In short.... no there isn't a simple 'cheat sheet' for inputs/outputs on the BECM - however, between the ground point at the back of the BECM (rearmost stud on the fusebox side) and all 3 of the other studs with brown cables going to it, then you should have 12V all the time. If you don't have 12V on one or more of those, then I would be suspecting the fuse box under the bonnet. If you have 12V at all 3, then chances are the BECM has gone into alarm lockout mode and this needs to be reset with specialist diagnostics gear - a Nanocom or Syncmate won't help with that. I've seen a few which have been in lockout where they haven't had anything displayed on the dash, and some that appear to work properly in every other way except constantly show ENGINE DISABLED and won't let you enter the EKA.

The first problem you had does sound like it was just out of sync - if you have 'ENGINE DISABLED' on the dash, then it's the BECM saying it won't even try to send the code to the engine ECU. If you don't have the message on the dash and it tries to crank on Diesels post about '97MY, or the Bosch petrol models then chances are it was just out of sync before, and now it's had a proper hissy fit and just gone into lockdown.

What was the original problem that resulted in the BECM and everything being changed?

I have the equipment to reset the lockout status on the BECM, and I also have syncmates (GEMS, Motronic, Diesel) that I hire out to other owners - however it seems like you are probably past that stage at the moment!

Depending on what was wrong with the original BECM then I should be able to retrieve the vehicle information off of that too, and clone it onto the working BECM so you can put the original instrument cluster back in and keep the vehicle's original mileage.

Feel free to drop me a PM if you are interested in me taking a look at the BECM - I can't repair them like Rick-the-Pick can, but I can reset the lockout and if the engine ECU is sent aswell, set it so that it and the BECM are synced together so it can come back as a complete, working set that should just fire up. The only downside is that I do work on RR's as a hobby outside of the day job that pays the mortgage, and I'm away onsite until the end of the month, so wouldn't be able to have a look until the 1st March at the earliest.

Marty
 
Possibly me who sent out out the sheet with the door lock tests, as I've posted them up in a few places and sent them to people from Facebook groups etc.

In short.... no there isn't a simple 'cheat sheet' for inputs/outputs on the BECM - however, between the ground point at the back of the BECM (rearmost stud on the fusebox side) and all 3 of the other studs with brown cables going to it, then you should have 12V all the time. If you don't have 12V on one or more of those, then I would be suspecting the fuse box under the bonnet. If you have 12V at all 3, then chances are the BECM has gone into alarm lockout mode and this needs to be reset with specialist diagnostics gear - a Nanocom or Syncmate won't help with that. I've seen a few which have been in lockout where they haven't had anything displayed on the dash, and some that appear to work properly in every other way except constantly show ENGINE DISABLED and won't let you enter the EKA.

The first problem you had does sound like it was just out of sync - if you have 'ENGINE DISABLED' on the dash, then it's the BECM saying it won't even try to send the code to the engine ECU. If you don't have the message on the dash and it tries to crank on Diesels post about '97MY, or the Bosch petrol models then chances are it was just out of sync before, and now it's had a proper hissy fit and just gone into lockdown.

What was the original problem that resulted in the BECM and everything being changed?

I have the equipment to reset the lockout status on the BECM, and I also have syncmates (GEMS, Motronic, Diesel) that I hire out to other owners - however it seems like you are probably past that stage at the moment!

Depending on what was wrong with the original BECM then I should be able to retrieve the vehicle information off of that too, and clone it onto the working BECM so you can put the original instrument cluster back in and keep the vehicle's original mileage.

Feel free to drop me a PM if you are interested in me taking a look at the BECM - I can't repair them like Rick-the-Pick can, but I can reset the lockout and if the engine ECU is sent aswell, set it so that it and the BECM are synced together so it can come back as a complete, working set that should just fire up. The only downside is that I do work on RR's as a hobby outside of the day job that pays the mortgage, and I'm away onsite until the end of the month, so wouldn't be able to have a look until the 1st March at the earliest.

Marty[/QUOTE thanks marty for your reply I think it was you thaht helped with the latch testing , pdf , the reason we swapped it origanly was the key fob was damged and ultametly broke , inside the ignition barrel , and we couldn't unlock or lock or do anything with it after speaking to RR they suggested a becm swap update a scary cost , so we swaped it for one off a same year same engine , all the ecu and fuse box etc , im starting to suspect the engine bay fuse box , if I test the post on the back of the fuse box and the battery live there should be continuity ? wich should follow to the becm ?
 
Use a volt meter to check for 12v between the ground and the +ve terminals on the BECM.
You should also get a constant 12V between the battery negative and the main positive post in the under bonnet fuse box, but if you have 12V at the BECM power terminals then you are at least getting power through some parts of the fusebox.

Did you swap the engine ECU over from the donor vehicle aswell, or just the BECM/instrument cluster and locks?
 
Use a volt meter to check for 12v between the ground and the +ve terminals on the BECM.
You should also get a constant 12V between the battery negative and the main positive post in the under bonnet fuse box, but if you have 12V at the BECM power terminals then you are at least getting power through some parts of the fusebox.

Did you swap the engine ECU over from the donor vehicle aswell, or just the BECM/instrument cluster and locks?
hi I swapped the lot it seems to be the positive post on the fuse box connection is faulty if I move the iwre power goes through but also the horn sounds constantly when ever the contact is made .... faulty fuse box me thinks
 
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