Jatco transmission

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oxygen

oxygen

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Hello guys, interesting situation. I have Freelander 2005 with 2l diesel and manual gearbox. But question not about that car. Another car in family is Rover 75 v6 with automatic gearbox. Same as freelander- kv6 and jatco. And, i have strange problem with Jatco. I bought that Rover 75 one year ago from very old man after 7 years of parking with 37000 mls on the odometer. My first job was replacing all fluids, transmission as well. I used Valvoline MaxLife ATF because i found that it is Texaco replacement. Car running fine, but i feel every shift, from 1 to 5. I tried to replace valve body with solenoids from another car- no effect. Tried to replace gearbox ECU- same effect. I connected diagnostic computer- there is no errors with engine or gearbox, all resistances in the range. Oil level- as should be.
Somebody use this oil (Valvoline MaxLife ATF) in Jatco transmission? I'm confused where can be problem.
 
I've not heard that Valvoline Max life is compatible. I thought that was restricted to ZF and GM autos.
I would always recommend Carlube ATF-U for the Jatco.
For harsh changes, I'd be changing the fluid first.
 
Of course, i did full change, i disconnected one oil cooling pipe to full old oil drain.
Just interesting: your switches are very smooth?

Now interesting things about MaxLive and Carlube specs.

Maxlive (in my box):
Viscosity @ 100 ºC 6.0
Viscosity @ 40 ºC 28.5
Viscosity Index 163

Carlube (in Your box):
Viscosity @ 100 ºC 7.20
Viscosity @ 40 ºC 40.2
Viscosity Index 198

Both oils are N402 compatible, don't understand why.
 
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It's unusual for the complete box contents to be changed. The service schedule only calls for a box contents change. Most people just drain the box contents 2 or 3 times over a few hundred miles. The reasoning behind this is simple. ATF is a powerful cleaner when new. So changing just the box contents a couple of times over a few hundred miles, allows scoured dirt deposits to be drained with the fluid. This process done 3 times allows the fluid to be changed and the dirt to be removed.
Changing all the fluid at once, scourers the dirt off the components, but then keeps them in the fluid. This could block the filter or fluid galleries. I'm not saying it's completely wrong to do a full change. Just that's not what the LR change procedure says to do.
Carlube ATF-U is more viscose than Valvoline Maxlife. Maybe the Jatco prefers a nice viscose fluid to work smoothly?.
 
I used Ravenol JF506E on the basis that it was developed specifically for the Jatco box and is a much later specification than the original Land Rover N402 spec.
It's much more expensive than the Carlube - but my changes are silky smooth on my 05 plate TD4 facelift auto at 130,000miles - only ever feeling slightly jerky when very cold and then only for a minute or so.
I tried to find the viscosity for you but so far only found this info.
Density at 20C 852kg/m3
Pourpoint -51 Chttp://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/Product/show/p/ravenol-atf-jf506e.html
 
Just try the ATF-U. It's about £25 a gallon. So if it doesn't solve the problem, your not out of pocket that much. I've used it in many Jatco boxes without an issue. My current TD4 auto is silky smooth being filled with ATF-U. My previous V6 was also filled with ATF-U, that's still changing smoothly after 50K miles. So it's definitely all I'll use, because I know it works well in the Jatco.
 
Understand. Yes, probably i will search for this oil here. Many thanks! Seems my oil is too thin.
 
Also as nodge says - your one off change still has the cleaned off dirt in solution so it would be a good move anyway and not so expensive as the ravenol
 
Cool. I really should to try it.
BTW i'm searching for good 2.5 v6 freelander, my wife hate sound of diesel :)
 
If you drive at 60mph in D and take yer foot oft the accelerator pedal, and let it slow down to walking pace on it's own without applying the brake, do the gears change down smooth or not? Be careful when doing this. Don't do it on the motorway fer eggsample.
 
Hello, when car is hot- down shift is smooth. Maybe i can feel it but really very smooth, when cold- i can feel 2-1. Upshift when hot is little harder, when cold- better. Here is video of driving:
 
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Fluid change to a fluid that is known to work in the Jatco would be my first check. Also you need to ensure that the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is free and working correctly. The box TCM and engine ECU communicate on the Can Bus. When the box changes gear, the TCM requests a torque reduction from the engine. If there's no communication, torque reduction can't take place. So it's worth checking for codes listing lost come. Also there's a speed sensor that can go down, causing rough changes,
 
Hello. I checked all solenoids and sensors resistances- all within range. Engine and gearbox ecu's don't have any trouble codes. But i like idea about torque when changing. Anyway first probably i will try Carlube.
 
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