Its broken.

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Well reading your last sentence you may be on the wrong site ? :vb-jester2:
The Disco 1 does pretty well for lack of rust in the important bits, whereas as Series, particularly a Station wagon, has a lot of bodywork structure that will be showing it's age. Some of it complex to repair. However given the choice I would be repairing a Series over a Disco', but that is my preference.
Less there mechanically/electrically so less to go wrong ...
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
In that case should I skip the compression test and just start swapping bits?
Click to expand...

Here you go again skipping steps :rolleyes: .

LetsHopeItFits said:
If its got low dry compression but good wet compression because the bores are bad, what can I do about it, short of getting new sleeves/liners installed, full rebuild etc.
In other news, someones just offered me a tempting deal on a 109 S3 5 door...
Click to expand...

Thought thats why you skipped all the advice in the first place and went and brought another Disco for its engine 🤔.
LetsHopeItFits said:
In other news, someones just offered me a tempting deal on a 109 S3 5 door...
Click to expand...

Its not normally the OP that wanders off the thread topic but you seem to manage it every time.

J
 
Shippers said:
You cant weld the body of a Disco 1...
Click to expand...
I do have to, for the sake of accuracy, say that this depends on which part of the Disco 1 needs welding.
My Disco 1 needed welding over the rear wheel arches and it now needs extensive welding to replace sills and bits of B posts.
I have already bought the repair panels.
All is in steel.
"That uniquely-shaped body uses many aluminium alloy panels supported on steel structures with steel inner wings. So, expect the usual galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. But even without that, the aluminium and steels are very capable of corroding on their own, especially the inner sills and underfloor and the load space floor, all of which need close scrutiny. Rusted sills and floor can be very expensive to restore properly.

The steel chassis (not to be confused with the Discovery II’s reputation for falling out onto the road) is relatively long lasting but, given these trucks can be up to 30 years old, it remains important to expect corrosion problems."

From https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/articles/how-to/how-to-assess-a-discovery-1/ that the OP might like to read.

So yes, you are not wrong the body per se is in aluminium, but it can all be fixed if you are prepared top do the work.
 
Don't understand what is going on here, :vb-banana:,

Even if it down on compresson on a few cylinders it will still run, fact.

Does it have spark?
Does it have fuel?
Is the timing correct?

So long as rods aren't hanging out the bottom of it, she'll run with all 3 of the above.. :)

Easy start is 'erm... the easiest tell tale, there are misconceptions of the damage of easy start, but to be honest it's all bull so long as its sprayed in whilst the engine is cranking, give it a whiff and see if it catches..
 
Henry_b said:
Don't understand what is going on here, :vb-banana:,

Even if it down on compresson on a few cylinders it will still run, fact.

Does it have spark?
Does it have fuel?
Is the timing correct?

So long as rods aren't hanging out the bottom of it, she'll run with all 3 of the above.. :)

Easy start is 'erm... the easiest tell tale, there are misconceptions of the damage of easy start, but to be honest it's all bull so long as its sprayed in whilst the engine is cranking, give it a whiff and see if it catches..
Click to expand...
Thing is Henry, we have all been down this route to help troubleshoot the OPs problem but it gets sidetracked.

I am sure it could all be checked and fixed pretty quick tbh.
but, you can lead a horse to water, 🤔 .

J
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I do have to, for the sake of accuracy, say that this depends on which part of the Disco 1 needs welding.
My Disco 1 needed welding over the rear wheel arches and it now needs extensive welding to replace sills and bits of B posts.
I have already bought the repair panels.
All is in steel.
"That uniquely-shaped body uses many aluminium alloy panels supported on steel structures with steel inner wings. So, expect the usual galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. But even without that, the aluminium and steels are very capable of corroding on their own, especially the inner sills and underfloor and the load space floor, all of which need close scrutiny. Rusted sills and floor can be very expensive to restore properly.

The steel chassis (not to be confused with the Discovery II’s reputation for falling out onto the road) is relatively long lasting but, given these trucks can be up to 30 years old, it remains important to expect corrosion problems."

From https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/articles/how-to/how-to-assess-a-discovery-1/ that the OP might like to read.

So yes, you are not wrong the body per se is in aluminium, but it can all be fixed if you are prepared top do the work.
Click to expand...
Yeah, some people thing of them as aluminium body cars with steel chassis, which isnt really the case. Its a steel car with some aluminium pannels (doors, bonnet, boot, wings etc) but the roof, floor, arches, firewall, bits of the doors etc are all steel
 
Yes yes. Ill get round to it soon. Im either busy, or its raining. (It being november in north wales, you can imagine how often thats the case)
Its not raining right now, but Im supposed to be doing a uni assignment. Oh how wonderful a distraction a forum can be!
 
Just hypothetically internet wasting here - if I wanted to, could I fit a 200tdi to my disco as easilly as a 300tdi?
Alternatively, can I put my facelift dashboard and interior in a 200tdi, including the adjustable steering wheel?
 
Compression tester should be here soon.
If its bad news, have I got to take the engine out to hone the bores and fit new piston rings, or can it be done with the engine in place?
 
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