icarsoft i930

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Td4 04 .
Having a look around what's the lr2 model like, will it read codes from other makes of cars namely Renault as I have 2 in the family as well as the freelander
 
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Had my icarsoft for a short while, here's my twopenceworth...

If you can afford it get something better.

It is very basic, and really an 'entry level' diagnostic tool, which really means that when you've used it and realized it has limitations you'll wish you had bought something better. Reason I post this is because I've been able to compare my diagnostics side-by-side with the professional Bosch diagnostic tool at the local garage. His is far more precise (obviously) and has pinponted precisely where my electronic Gremlin is - my icarsoft varied between three errors: battery, wheel sensor and wheel hub sensor ring. Neither of which is correct. I'm hoping a Hawkeye will be more efficient as I'm disappointed in my recent experience.

Anyone want to by my nearly-new i930?

Just my opinion...
 
Correct me if I'm being a bit fick ear, but diagnostic equipment does not disassemble your car to find faults, it communicates with the car's onboard computers and asks for their error codes. These codes will come back the same regardless of the diag kit being used. Granted some will just display the code meaning you have to look up the description, while others will display a message.

The cheaper code readers will talk to fewer of the car's computers (possibly none!) and will perform fewer functions above and beyond the basic error code retrieval and clearing - for example live data capture, key programming etc.

The iCarsoft would not have "made up" those codes, surely they were the codes in the car's computer at the time you checked with it and there were other codes when checked at the garage.

Having said that, I completely agree with you, it is a terrible bit of kit and I'll do you a favour by taking it off your hands for $15 NZD. Alternatively and you are in luck here because, I can swap it for one of my latest stock, a genuine Rolex watch, as worn by the King and Queen of Panama and used as the 2016 San Paolo Olympics for timing the 100m hurdles. Rodney, pass me the case...
 
Sold, to Mr. grumpygel for a squeeze of toothpaste and a dodgy rolex...

I have no idea which diagnostic tool is the better, all I am sure of is that all the codes on my icarsoft were incorrect: the wheel sensor is fine, the wheel hub ring sensor is fine, and the battery is fine....

I'm still getting intermittent "no HDC, abs light on and brake /pad drum warning light on". If I drive the car 50m when I first use it in the morning the lights often go off and the car is back to normal, sometimes for the whole day. However, on other occasions the light come on/go off, or just the abs light is left on, which I can then erase with icarsoft. Frustrating!

The mechanic at the garage suggested that a Land Rover dealer would probably have the best diagnostic tool as it is calibrated specifically and will be more prcise as to the fault. Booking it in shortly.
 
For the money, the Icarsoft is OK. It's not ground breaking, but it does what a majority of owners will need. It's better than a generic OBD reader as it is it can communicate with ABS and SRS systems.
It will also show live data on many systems.
This is all many owners need.
 
Faults don't have to be calibrated... They are a number. It's all digital.
Diagnostic asks the ECUs if they have an faults and they say "Yes pal, a 1025 and a 1026". A cheaper reader won't see these as 1024 and 1027 - chances are it won't even know how to ask!
If the i930 reads faults it may map them to the wrong human-readable message - that's a different fish-kettle.
 
Harold 4x4 said:
Sold, to Mr. grumpygel for a squeeze of toothpaste and a dodgy rolex...

I have no idea which diagnostic tool is the better, all I am sure of is that all the codes on my icarsoft were incorrect: the wheel sensor is fine, the wheel hub ring sensor is fine, and the battery is fine....

I'm still getting intermittent "no HDC, abs light on and brake /pad drum warning light on". If I drive the car 50m when I first use it in the morning the lights often go off and the car is back to normal, sometimes for the whole day. However, on other occasions the light come on/go off, or just the abs light is left on, which I can then erase with icarsoft. Frustrating!

The mechanic at the garage suggested that a Land Rover dealer would probably have the best diagnostic tool as it is calibrated specifically and will be more prcise as to the fault. Booking it in shortly.
Click to expand...

A code reader can't be more accurate at reading the code. The code is a code. This code is taken out of that particular ECUs memory, as a code.
The description on the other hand, can be a subject for discussion. Not all readers can cross-reference all codes with an accurate description. So in these situations, a little additional detective work my be needed. ;)
 
Harold 4x4 said:
Sold, to Mr. grumpygel for a squeeze of toothpaste and a dodgy rolex...
Click to expand...
Cool, if you could just give me your credit card number and expiry date, I'll transfer some cash :)
Harold 4x4 said:
I have no idea which diagnostic tool is the better, all I am sure of is that all the codes on my icarsoft were incorrect: the wheel sensor is fine, the wheel hub ring sensor is fine, and the battery is fine....

I'm still getting intermittent "no HDC, abs light on and brake /pad drum warning light on". If I drive the car 50m when I first use it in the morning the lights often go off and the car is back to normal, sometimes for the whole day. However, on other occasions the light come on/go off, or just the abs light is left on, which I can then erase with icarsoft. Frustrating!

The mechanic at the garage suggested that a Land Rover dealer would probably have the best diagnostic tool as it is calibrated specifically and will be more prcise as to the fault. Booking it in shortly.
Click to expand...
The bit about "brake /pad drum warning light" threw me a bit - but it looks like you have an F2 rather than an F1?

F2s are beginning to get into the realms of electrical nonsense found on modern cars.

I understand how the ABS works on my F1 - there's an exciter on the shaft, there's a sensor in the hub, there's a wire from sensor to ABS ECU and there are wires from the ABS ECU to the warning lights on the dash and the (alarmingly inaccurately named) ODB port. If there's a problem with the ring, the sensor won't pick it up, it won't send a signal down the wire to the ECU, the ECU finds no signal, stores a code and turns on power to the relevant wire(s) to light the relevant bulb(s) on the dash. I can then plug in @Tony Reeves diagnostic device (its always good to have mates :) ) into the ODB port which talks down the wire to the ABS ECU to retrieve the code which will say there's a problem with that wheel.

At this point, I would believe the code in as much as its related to somewhere between the ABS ECU and that wheel. Could be the ring, sensor or wiring to the ABS ECU - but I wouldn't believe the code further than that other than a hint. Lets face it, the ABS ECU believes it is talking to the Sensor - but if there's a problem in the wire it won't be - but it always assumes it is.

The F2 will probably have sensors to check the sensors, plus sensors checking the sensors that are checking the sensors. It is all just more electronic components to go wrong and provide misleading information. Ultimately....
Nodge68 said:
So in these situations, a little additional detective work my be needed. ;)
Click to expand...
Plus of course the ABS ECU itself might be baisée. (Je used Google for the translation).

Is the i930 even programmed for the F2 error codes?
 
Harold 4x4 said:
Sold, to Mr. grumpygel for a squeeze of toothpaste and a dodgy rolex...

I have no idea which diagnostic tool is the better, all I am sure of is that all the codes on my icarsoft were incorrect: the wheel sensor is fine, the wheel hub ring sensor is fine, and the battery is fine....

I'm still getting intermittent "no HDC, abs light on and brake /pad drum warning light on". If I drive the car 50m when I first use it in the morning the lights often go off and the car is back to normal, sometimes for the whole day. However, on other occasions the light come on/go off, or just the abs light is left on, which I can then erase with icarsoft. Frustrating!

The mechanic at the garage suggested that a Land Rover dealer would probably have the best diagnostic tool as it is calibrated specifically and will be more prcise as to the fault. Booking it in shortly.
Click to expand...

For a FL2. A Gap Diagnostic IID BT is about as good a reader, programmer, eraser as you can get ;)
 
GrumpyGel said:
Cool, if you could just give me your credit card number and expiry date, I'll transfer some cash :)

The bit about "brake /pad drum warning light" threw me a bit - but it looks like you have an F2 rather than an F1?

F2s are beginning to get into the realms of electrical nonsense found on modern cars.

I understand how the ABS works on my F1 - there's an exciter on the shaft, there's a sensor in the hub, there's a wire from sensor to ABS ECU and there are wires from the ABS ECU to the warning lights on the dash and the (alarmingly inaccurately named) ODB port. If there's a problem with the ring, the sensor won't pick it up, it won't send a signal down the wire to the ECU, the ECU finds no signal, stores a code and turns on power to the relevant wire(s) to light the relevant bulb(s) on the dash. I can then plug in @Tony Reeves diagnostic device (its always good to have mates :) ) into the ODB port which talks down the wire to the ABS ECU to retrieve the code which will say there's a problem with that wheel.

At this point, I would believe the code in as much as its related to somewhere between the ABS ECU and that wheel. Could be the ring, sensor or wiring to the ABS ECU - but I wouldn't believe the code further than that other than a hint. Lets face it, the ABS ECU believes it is talking to the Sensor - but if there's a problem in the wire it won't be - but it always assumes it is.

The F2 will probably have sensors to check the sensors, plus sensors checking the sensors that are checking the sensors. It is all just more electronic components to go wrong and provide misleading information. Ultimately....

Plus of course the ABS ECU itself might be baisée. (Je used Google for the translation).

Is the i930 even programmed for the F2 error codes?
Click to expand...

Yes it works with the FL2 and D3 ok. The I930 is good as a basic reader.
For the FL2 the IID BT is unbeatable ;)
 
I've an icarsoft 930 and it directed me to the faulty rear parking sensor, no messing.

No other problems with vehicle (fl2) other than this to date so that's the limit of my experience, I was impressed with it anyways.
 
Excuse me if I'm repeating myself.
My dash board was a veritable disco of lights for over 9 months, my icarsoft LR11, gave me multiple spurious faults.
Abs sensor, oxygen sensor etc etc.

What was it i hear your cry....

Faulty binnacle/display pod, call it what you will.
£30 for a second hand one off eBay, been running lovely for months now:)

Not totally the icarsofts fault, as the data stream was corrupted. It's ok for general faults and tests.

Thing what I don't like about my icarsoft, is it won't talk to the auto transmission. Advertising guff says it will, but it won't.

But a T4 or similar.

Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
Excuse me if I'm repeating myself.
My dash board was a veritable disco of lights for over 9 months, my icarsoft LR11, gave me multiple spurious faults.
Abs sensor, oxygen sensor etc etc.

What was it i hear your cry....

Faulty binnacle/display pod, call it what you will.
£30 for a second hand one off eBay, been running lovely for months now:)

Not totally the icarsofts fault, as the data stream was corrupted. It's ok for general faults and tests.

Thing what I don't like about my icarsoft, is it won't talk to the auto transmission. Advertising guff says it will, but it won't.

But a T4 or similar.

Mike
Click to expand...

Mine doesn't see the auto box TCM either. It's probably a coding fault. Interestingly my OBD2 bluetooth dongle will show TCM faults, if they are affecting the engine ECU.
 
image.jpeg

Here is my fault as it appears in the dash first thing in the morning, or after standing a couple of hours.

When I drive the car 50 - 100meters then stop, switch off the engine, then restart I get the next pic..

image.jpeg


I can now delete this error, or I can drive for another 50 - 100meters and the abs warning light will go out. Sometimes everthing works, sometimes the HDC is not available but without any warning light, just a message in the dash display telling me no HDC. However, usually after 5-10mins of driving and I'm back to three warning lights as per first picture but on one occasion it went the whole day without any errors.

The pic below is one, of the selection of three, error messages I get on the icarsoft - depending on which socks I am wearing and the wind direction...

Other errors are faulty abs sensor, or wheel hub sensor ring.

image.jpeg


Battery is good, and I charged it up just to be sure,power is good on turnover.

My gut feeling is still that it is a wheel hub sesnsor ring as it may have been damaged when I changed the rear shocks.

To be continued......
 
It's not uncommon for a failing capacity battery to cause various faults on starting. It's well documented that a on a D3, a battery that will start the engine fine, also causes a string of faults while doing so. The common D3 fault is to hear a bong and the words on the screen "HDC FAILURE, SPECIAL PROGRAMS DEACTIVATED". In this case, there's absolutely nothing wrong with the car. But the battery voltage is dropping to low on cranking, upsetting the data on the coms bus. So don't discount the battery, simply because it cranks the engine. It could well be dropping voltage to low on cranking;)
 
I'm not discounting anything, but obviously the bits I've 'touched' recently have been on the rear right: sensor, hub, shock.
If it were the battery it wouldn't explain the intermittent dash fault light awhen the car has been running for an hour. Frankly, I hope it is the battery as it would be the cheapest fix.
 
If it's doing it while it's been running for a while, the fault is elsewhere.
The wheel position sensor wiring is quite brittle and easy damaged. It could be that the sensor is going open circuit intermittently.
 
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