I would just like to say

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I not sure what a gravity hot water pump system is, but yes it does have a pump and it normally copes fine. It seems to be working and I am just coming to the end of my round of bleeding the rads. I discovered that the lock valve on one seems to have been nearly closed. I don't know if you have been following this saga, but I mentioned that of the 14 rads in the whole system we only use 7 so the strain on the pump ought to be less than it was designed to take. But I have to admit that the last plumber to look at it in any detail, (he was replacing the tank) said that the pump wasn't really rated as powerful enough for the system. Without being asked he fitted gate valves either side of it to make replacing it easier than it otherwise would have been.
He is a decent bloke, he was the plumber who did all the plumbing for our ex-son-in-law and his father who built houses for a living so we trust him implicitly. Sadly he has retired and his son, who is supposed to be doing the same job, is useless and his father is the first to agree with this.
Is the "gravity" part of the system the fact that it has a small header tank for the CH and a much bigger one for the hot and cold water for most of the house?

I have come across a system that relied totally on gravity and I think the fact that hot water rises. It was in a small two bed terraced house. It always seemed cold to me but maybe the burd who owned it didn't feel the cold!
The pump is on the first floor, next to the hot water tank.
This is a gravity system, the pump only runs the heating the the hot water goes round on its own due to the colder water dropping pushing the hot up.
1731753794772.png
 
Afternoon all.
Re the CH.
I wasn't lucky.
It is now choosing which rads to heat up and when. The only control I have over it is to turn rads off. When they are all open, (except the one in the garage and the guest bathroomso we are now down to 5, only the 2 upstairs ones get any heat. So this a.m. early, I closed the 2 upstairs ones off to get heat downstairs, I hoped.
Even then I only got heat to two, so I closed the new tall one in the kitchen off and then got heat to the lounge and the hall. But the hall one isn't really very warm.
So annoying, I think there is a distinct possibility that the pump although making a noise has indeed gone fubar.
Dunno how to test it. I'll give it yet another clout or two just in case the impellor is stuck on a bit of debris, and do more research.
When the plumber comes for his dosh I think we'll be giving him more work.
Have a nice p.m. folks.

:):):)
 


The regulator we have on our gas tank (for cooker) if it goes "open" ended will shut off.
When we change the tank it has to be switched on/off a few times to fill the line.
And TBH they could have just reached in an turned the regulator off (like he did at the end) instead of all the drama with the swishing of a cloak like a bullfighter :rolleyes:.

J
 
This is a gravity system, the pump only runs the heating the the hot water goes round on its own due to the colder water dropping pushing the hot up.
View attachment 330106
Thanks for this pic, mate. On looking at our system it is obvious that the pump drives water through the heating coil. There is a two way valve just above it part goes off to the heating system and the other part to the heating coil. I have to assume that when the system is set to "HW only" this valve is actioned.

Anyway the system is so chronic now that I am going to call the plumber in. thanks for your help.
 
I not sure what a gravity hot water pump system is, but yes it does have a pump and it normally copes fine. It seems to be working and I am just coming to the end of my round of bleeding the rads. I discovered that the lock valve on one seems to have been nearly closed. I don't know if you have been following this saga, but I mentioned that of the 14 rads in the whole system we only use 7 so the strain on the pump ought to be less than it was designed to take. But I have to admit that the last plumber to look at it in any detail, (he was replacing the tank) said that the pump wasn't really rated as powerful enough for the system. Without being asked he fitted gate valves either side of it to make replacing it easier than it otherwise would have been.

Basically its open to ATM (you have a tank) Hot water will thermo syphon if the pipework suits, I.E big and straight(ish) and above the boiler.
If the valve you showed earlier was the boiler feed to the tank, you are not thermo syphoning. Think you also said your hot water tank is downstairs? so thermo isn't going to happen. It needs to be pumped.

So annoying, I think there is a distinct possibility that the pump although making a noise has indeed gone fubar.
Dunno how to test it. I'll give it yet another clout or two just in case the impellor is stuck on a bit of debris, and do more research.
When the plumber comes for his dosh I think we'll be giving him more work.

Its possible your pump is tired, dont think the impellor is stuck as it wouldn't pump anything. You can thank him for fitting the gate valve each side of the pump it makes changing so much easier, ( Cant get them here).

Its possible the impellor is gunged up when was the last time you checked/changed the inhibitor in the system.
In the early days here we couldn't find any decent stuff so our heating pump got worse and worse, pulled the pump and the impellor was clogged. Now as you have gate valves then you can pull the head of the pump (grundfos) and check/clean. Then reinstall and bleed some air through the big screw on the face.

If you didnt go to France would your system run a little bit? rather than being shut down? its getting old.


J

Disclaimer: I am no plumber and don't want to step on any professional toes, but I have a welders mask.
 
Afternoon folks :).

Plumbering today all good, She can now use her washing machine :).

So yesterdays visit to the immigration office went down like a :vb-tapedshut:.
Last time was to get our Article 50 and was a simple pre printed form filled in at the cafe over the road, then to the bank and hand them back in, for collection 3/10/30 days later (you pay for speed;)).

Oh no, not now. She (the grumpy woman behind the counter) handed me a handful of paperwork to fill in, Its not a "sit in the cafe" type form. Plus 2 of them have to be notarized. Getting the forms only took an hour an arf :D
They have, as far as I can see. Given forms out as a Non EU citizen (which of course I am now). Instead of a simple renewal. But as there is space for me to enter the present residence permit details I hope it makes it easier🤔.

Gotta love that B thing🤔.

But..... Its been a bright sunny day here and all is well:D.

J
 
Thanks for this pic, mate. On looking at our system it is obvious that the pump drives water through the heating coil. There is a two way valve just above it part goes off to the heating system and the other part to the heating coil. I have to assume that when the system is set to "HW only" this valve is actioned.

Anyway the system is so chronic now that I am going to call the plumber in. thanks for your help.
If you have a valve that the boiler feed goes to in the middle and a pipe out each side for hot water and heating then you a Y plan set up if its a honeywell valve with a silver metal top is the leaver at the end loose when heating is on if there is resistance against a spring then the syncron motor inside has gone, and is a easy quick fix.
 
If you have a valve that the boiler feed goes to in the middle and a pipe out each side for hot water and heating then you a Y plan set up if its a honeywell valve with a silver metal top is the leaver at the end loose when heating is on if there is resistance against a spring then the syncron motor inside has gone, and is a easy quick fix.
I'll take a pic of the valve and put it up, the valve may be on its side cos the little lever is on the bottom.
TBH we never have just the hot water on, we are never here when it is warm enough for that. So I daresay that valve gets little or no use unless when the cylinder is not asking for heat, it closes it, but I don't see how that can happen. I confess that when I was failing to get hot water I did switch the system to "HW only" to try and encourage it to work. (Before I found the gate valve that had been closed and didn't seem to want to move! I can see the face you are pulling from here! 🤣 )
I have played with the lever underneath without knowing exactly what it is supposed to do, it has a kind of hook thing that you can hook it behind I think, to keep it in one position?
valve2.jpg

You can just about make out the little lever on the bottom of the valve, to the right.
The pipe from the top of the motorised valve goes to the coil in the cylinder, the other one goes off to the CH rads. etc.
Funnily, this valve has been making noises for a long time now, when the plumber, the good one I mentioned earlier, came to change the tank I did mention to him the noise it made and that maybe it might be a good idea to change it, but he wouldn't have it! TBH it wouldn't make the noise for him!
I have found that if the noise is too annoying, (Our bedroom is just to the left) I could stop it making the noise or lessen it if I pushed the little lever to the left and held it there for a while.
 
and this for a laugh.

W just shouted down from the guest bathroom. "Why is hot water coming from the cold tap?!"
Wot the flip? Thinks I, as I run up to see what she is on about.
Mind boggling, could I have really swapped the two feeds over??
No, of course not, what she meant was "Why is the "C" on the left tap and not on the right?"
Some time ago I had swapped the two tap heads when I had to do a repair and I then put the noo one on the right hand side. Forgetting to swap the "H" and "C" over.
I was a bit annoyed at her for having set my heart and mind racing over this, so I was "explaining" this to her as I unscrewed the "H" and it slipped from my wet fingers and into the basin.....
.........where she had removed the plug wot is actioned by the little pull-up lever and it popped down the hole.

My fault yes I know. At least she was good enough to get me mugs in a range of sizes so that I could find one to go over the cylindrical trap and catch any spillage. Inside the pillar support thing. 5 minutes later all was serene in the Steamer household. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
It IS set to 4g 3g 2g auto connect, BUT it isn't 4gVoLTE compatible, which is why when I try to make a phone call with it, it just sits with "Calling" showing but the other phone which is right next to me doesn't ring.
But I can send it a text.
Here is a search thing for VoLTE compatibility from SMARTY, as you use that.
The very first Phone on the list of phones which is NOT compatible is mine, Alcaltel 3.
Text messages are sent on 2g.

This ere fone problem... Self inflicked injury. Tis like buying a tratter and complaining yer gottid blurred vision at anyfink over 10mph.

Buy a new fone. A brand new one.

Samsung A55.
390 sovs.
This one will blow yer socks oft. Good camera and screen. Tis wot eye would buy if ma beloved A52 were to become deadded. Way more than wot yer need wiv regards to processing ability. But why not spoil yerself.

Samsung A16
200 sovs.
Cheaper fone than above. Lower spec camera, processiing ability and less memory. But still a good fone wiv good features like amoled screen. Way more than wot yer need. But wiv fones there's a level where yer need to be, to future proof it and yerself. This one is ok fer that.

Both of the above fones will allow yer to post on this ere fred, if yer gottid an internet connection via sim card or wifi.

Samsung are a good, popular make. The A series models are cheaper than the others like S series. Dun't be put oft by this. There's a number of A series fones between the A16 and A55. But thems two both stick oot as good fones, spec and price, as bench marks ter go for. They is sim free anorl. Both will last yer many years if yer look after them, and the battery.
 
Basically its open to ATM (you have a tank) Hot water will thermo syphon if the pipework suits, I.E big and straight(ish) and above the boiler.
If the valve you showed earlier was the boiler feed to the tank, you are not thermo syphoning. Think you also said your hot water tank is downstairs? so thermo isn't going to happen. It needs to be pumped.



Its possible your pump is tired, dont think the impellor is stuck as it wouldn't pump anything. You can thank him for fitting the gate valve each side of the pump it makes changing so much easier, ( Cant get them here).

Its possible the impellor is gunged up when was the last time you checked/changed the inhibitor in the system.
In the early days here we couldn't find any decent stuff so our heating pump got worse and worse, pulled the pump and the impellor was clogged. Now as you have gate valves then you can pull the head of the pump (grundfos) and check/clean. Then reinstall and bleed some air through the big screw on the face.

If you didnt go to France would your system run a little bit? rather than being shut down? its getting old.


J

Disclaimer: I am no plumber and don't want to step on any professional toes, but I have a welders mask.
No, the tank is on the first floor in the airing cupboard above the stairs. Fairly trad positioning really. Together with the pump. The boiler is on the ground floor in the utility which is attached to the side of the house.
There is inhibitor in the system, when I drained part of the system to install and reposition the feeds to a new rad in the kitchen the water that came out was lovely and clear.
I did once leave the pump running all summer long as although I had turned off the gas under the boiler and at the meter I forgot to switch the system to off so it ran and ran as the stat would have demanded heat every time it needed it!
But yes, thinking about it, I could do that again, deliberately, setting it to come on for say 20 minutes a day on the programmer. Good idea.
It is what we do with the swimming pool pump in F when we aren't there.
But there would be no harm in closing the gate valves, taking it apart and cleaning out what I can see. I'll have to search around a bit ont tinternet to see how to do this.
You say you can't get gate valves but can you not simply use the sort of isolators with levers which I believe are ball valves? A lot of peeps say they are better. It is what we have as the main stop cock in Frogland. Much easier to use than a trad one. The latest plumber and loads on line say gate valves are a problem waiting to happen.
 
Text messages are sent on 2g.

This ere fone problem... Self inflicked injury. Tis like buying a tratter and complaining yer gottid blurred vision at anyfink over 10mph.

Buy a new fone. A brand new one.

Samsung A55.
390 sovs.
This one will blow yer socks oft. Good camera and screen. Tis wot eye would buy if ma beloved A52 were to become deadded. Way more than wot yer need wiv regards to processing ability. But why not spoil yerself.

Samsung A16
200 sovs.
Cheaper fone than above. Lower spec camera, processiing ability and less memory. But still a good fone wiv good features like amoled screen. Way more than wot yer need. But wiv fones there's a level where yer need to be, to future proof it and yerself. This one is ok fer that.

Both of the above fones will allow yer to post on this ere fred, if yer gottid an internet connection via sim card or wifi.

Samsung are a good, popular make. The A series models are cheaper than the others like S series. Dun't be put oft by this. There's a number of A series fones between the A16 and A55. But thems two both stick oot as good fones, spec and price, as bench marks ter go for. They is sim free anorl. Both will last yer many years if yer look after them, and the battery.
This bullet has got to be bitted, so thanks for the info.
Surprisingly maybe, I have posted on ere from the Alcatel but only rarely, usually when travelling, through the hotel's wifi.
Wot is the advantage of a phone being Sim free? I really, really prefer pay as you go as I use my mobile SOOOO rarely,
You can call me cheap but I take pics on my DSLR and only use my mobile as a back up or for safety when on the road.
Or if I have to when a frog delivery person needs to contact me, and then I have to use a French number anyway. I only got a smart mobile when Covid was big and you had to constantly prove, through the NHS app, that your jabs were up to date. Which is why I got a secondhand one.
I'd like one that takes two Sims so I could have a Frog one and a Brit one in it, like my Tesco mobile PAYG which is so cheap and reliable.
W has promised to buy me a new lappy up to what I think is a large sum of dosh for my Xmas and 70th burfday pressies, I will have to see if she'll "wear" the idea of a cheaper one and a mobile.
We'll see!
 
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No, the tank is on the first floor in the airing cupboard above the stairs. Fairly trad positioning really. Together with the pump. The boiler is on the ground floor in the utility which is attached to the side of the house.
There is inhibitor in the system, when I drained part of the system to install and reposition the feeds to a new rad in the kitchen the water that came out was lovely and clear.
I did once leave the pump running all summer long as although I had turned off the gas under the boiler and at the meter I forgot to switch the system to off so it ran and ran as the stat would have demanded heat every time it needed it!
But yes, thinking about it, I could do that again, deliberately, setting it to come on for say 20 minutes a day on the programmer. Good idea.
It is what we do with the swimming pool pump in F when we aren't there.
But there would be no harm in closing the gate valves, taking it apart and cleaning out what I can see. I'll have to search around a bit ont tinternet to see how to do this.
You say you can't get gate valves but can you not simply use the sort of isolators with levers which I believe are ball valves? A lot of peeps say they are better. It is what we have as the main stop cock in Frogland. Much easier to use than a trad one. The latest plumber and loads on line say gate valves are a problem waiting to happen.
Ok must have missed the first floor bit. But regardless your pipes are not ideal for thermo syphon anyway, need large bore.
As much as I say and agree gate valve are carp the 1s on you pump should be good enough to remove the body of the pump. As Grundfos (colour gives it away) keep the same body size for most normal sized heating pumps it’s also an easy swap.
I won’t comment on why you have so much pipe size reduction cos I am not a pro, but I wouldn’t do it.

Even though we can’t get them here if I need to get into our pump I have ball valves to isolate and only lose about half a litre, and bleeding out after is simple.
Did I mention I wasn’t a plumberer but I have a welding helmet, auto 1 it is too ;)

J
 
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