This is a gravity system, the pump only runs the heating the the hot water goes round on its own due to the colder water dropping pushing the hot up.I not sure what a gravity hot water pump system is, but yes it does have a pump and it normally copes fine. It seems to be working and I am just coming to the end of my round of bleeding the rads. I discovered that the lock valve on one seems to have been nearly closed. I don't know if you have been following this saga, but I mentioned that of the 14 rads in the whole system we only use 7 so the strain on the pump ought to be less than it was designed to take. But I have to admit that the last plumber to look at it in any detail, (he was replacing the tank) said that the pump wasn't really rated as powerful enough for the system. Without being asked he fitted gate valves either side of it to make replacing it easier than it otherwise would have been.
He is a decent bloke, he was the plumber who did all the plumbing for our ex-son-in-law and his father who built houses for a living so we trust him implicitly. Sadly he has retired and his son, who is supposed to be doing the same job, is useless and his father is the first to agree with this.
Is the "gravity" part of the system the fact that it has a small header tank for the CH and a much bigger one for the hot and cold water for most of the house?
I have come across a system that relied totally on gravity and I think the fact that hot water rises. It was in a small two bed terraced house. It always seemed cold to me but maybe the burd who owned it didn't feel the cold!
The pump is on the first floor, next to the hot water tank.
Thanks for this pic, mate. On looking at our system it is obvious that the pump drives water through the heating coil. There is a two way valve just above it part goes off to the heating system and the other part to the heating coil. I have to assume that when the system is set to "HW only" this valve is actioned.This is a gravity system, the pump only runs the heating the the hot water goes round on its own due to the colder water dropping pushing the hot up.
View attachment 330106
I not sure what a gravity hot water pump system is, but yes it does have a pump and it normally copes fine. It seems to be working and I am just coming to the end of my round of bleeding the rads. I discovered that the lock valve on one seems to have been nearly closed. I don't know if you have been following this saga, but I mentioned that of the 14 rads in the whole system we only use 7 so the strain on the pump ought to be less than it was designed to take. But I have to admit that the last plumber to look at it in any detail, (he was replacing the tank) said that the pump wasn't really rated as powerful enough for the system. Without being asked he fitted gate valves either side of it to make replacing it easier than it otherwise would have been.
So annoying, I think there is a distinct possibility that the pump although making a noise has indeed gone fubar.
Dunno how to test it. I'll give it yet another clout or two just in case the impellor is stuck on a bit of debris, and do more research.
When the plumber comes for his dosh I think we'll be giving him more work.
If you have a valve that the boiler feed goes to in the middle and a pipe out each side for hot water and heating then you a Y plan set up if its a honeywell valve with a silver metal top is the leaver at the end loose when heating is on if there is resistance against a spring then the syncron motor inside has gone, and is a easy quick fix.Thanks for this pic, mate. On looking at our system it is obvious that the pump drives water through the heating coil. There is a two way valve just above it part goes off to the heating system and the other part to the heating coil. I have to assume that when the system is set to "HW only" this valve is actioned.
Anyway the system is so chronic now that I am going to call the plumber in. thanks for your help.
I'll take a pic of the valve and put it up, the valve may be on its side cos the little lever is on the bottom.If you have a valve that the boiler feed goes to in the middle and a pipe out each side for hot water and heating then you a Y plan set up if its a honeywell valve with a silver metal top is the leaver at the end loose when heating is on if there is resistance against a spring then the syncron motor inside has gone, and is a easy quick fix.
Text messages are sent on 2g.It IS set to 4g 3g 2g auto connect, BUT it isn't 4gVoLTE compatible, which is why when I try to make a phone call with it, it just sits with "Calling" showing but the other phone which is right next to me doesn't ring.
But I can send it a text.
Here is a search thing for VoLTE compatibility from SMARTY, as you use that.
The very first Phone on the list of phones which is NOT compatible is mine, Alcaltel 3.
Checking if your device is 4G-VoLTE compatible | SMARTY Help Centre
Check if your device is compatible after 3G switch offhelp.smarty.co.uk
No, the tank is on the first floor in the airing cupboard above the stairs. Fairly trad positioning really. Together with the pump. The boiler is on the ground floor in the utility which is attached to the side of the house.Basically its open to ATM (you have a tank) Hot water will thermo syphon if the pipework suits, I.E big and straight(ish) and above the boiler.
If the valve you showed earlier was the boiler feed to the tank, you are not thermo syphoning. Think you also said your hot water tank is downstairs? so thermo isn't going to happen. It needs to be pumped.
Its possible your pump is tired, dont think the impellor is stuck as it wouldn't pump anything. You can thank him for fitting the gate valve each side of the pump it makes changing so much easier, ( Cant get them here).
Its possible the impellor is gunged up when was the last time you checked/changed the inhibitor in the system.
In the early days here we couldn't find any decent stuff so our heating pump got worse and worse, pulled the pump and the impellor was clogged. Now as you have gate valves then you can pull the head of the pump (grundfos) and check/clean. Then reinstall and bleed some air through the big screw on the face.
If you didnt go to France would your system run a little bit? rather than being shut down? its getting old.
J
Disclaimer: I am no plumber and don't want to step on any professional toes, but I have a welders mask.
Eye posted an instergram link that seddit din't wuk after pressing post. So eye swopped it ferra dot in discust.
This bullet has got to be bitted, so thanks for the info.Text messages are sent on 2g.
This ere fone problem... Self inflicked injury. Tis like buying a tratter and complaining yer gottid blurred vision at anyfink over 10mph.
Buy a new fone. A brand new one.
Samsung A55.
390 sovs.
This one will blow yer socks oft. Good camera and screen. Tis wot eye would buy if ma beloved A52 were to become deadded. Way more than wot yer need wiv regards to processing ability. But why not spoil yerself.
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Samsung A16
200 sovs.
Cheaper fone than above. Lower spec camera, processiing ability and less memory. But still a good fone wiv good features like amoled screen. Way more than wot yer need. But wiv fones there's a level where yer need to be, to future proof it and yerself. This one is ok fer that.
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Both of the above fones will allow yer to post on this ere fred, if yer gottid an internet connection via sim card or wifi.
Samsung are a good, popular make. The A series models are cheaper than the others like S series. Dun't be put oft by this. There's a number of A series fones between the A16 and A55. But thems two both stick oot as good fones, spec and price, as bench marks ter go for. They is sim free anorl. Both will last yer many years if yer look after them, and the battery.
Ok must have missed the first floor bit. But regardless your pipes are not ideal for thermo syphon anyway, need large bore.No, the tank is on the first floor in the airing cupboard above the stairs. Fairly trad positioning really. Together with the pump. The boiler is on the ground floor in the utility which is attached to the side of the house.
There is inhibitor in the system, when I drained part of the system to install and reposition the feeds to a new rad in the kitchen the water that came out was lovely and clear.
I did once leave the pump running all summer long as although I had turned off the gas under the boiler and at the meter I forgot to switch the system to off so it ran and ran as the stat would have demanded heat every time it needed it!
But yes, thinking about it, I could do that again, deliberately, setting it to come on for say 20 minutes a day on the programmer. Good idea.
It is what we do with the swimming pool pump in F when we aren't there.
But there would be no harm in closing the gate valves, taking it apart and cleaning out what I can see. I'll have to search around a bit ont tinternet to see how to do this.
You say you can't get gate valves but can you not simply use the sort of isolators with levers which I believe are ball valves? A lot of peeps say they are better. It is what we have as the main stop cock in Frogland. Much easier to use than a trad one. The latest plumber and loads on line say gate valves are a problem waiting to happen.
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