I would just like to say

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CETEK MXS 5.0.
They are well thought of by some forum members. Did me research to select the one I needed and found the price highly variable from different sources. Got one for about £64 inc postage which I thought was a good price.
I'm pleased to read that 'cos I bought the same one (mine's MXS 10) for my motorhome hoping that it was going to be good. So far - fingers crossed. I have just left it on the battery for the winter season to try to keep the battery functioning properly - all will be revealed when the new 'travelling' season starts in April/May - weather permitting!
 
I have just left it on the battery for the winter season to try to keep the battery functioning properly
Do you leave the battery connected to the vehicle while the charger is on? I normally disconnect first (using old tech charger) but reasoned that as the battery is normally connected to the vehicle it should be ok to leave it connected with this new kit. This way is much more convenient - can still use central locking and arm the alarms, trackers etc and and don't need to re-sync the fobs. Hence the planned quick plug and go. I hope its ok, I haven't got a fire extinguisher :oops:.
 
Do you leave the battery connected to the vehicle while the charger is on? I normally disconnect first (using old tech charger) but reasoned that as the battery is normally connected to the vehicle it should be ok to leave it connected with this new kit. This way is much more convenient - can still use central locking and arm the alarms, trackers etc and and don't need to re-sync the fobs. Hence the planned quick plug and go. I hope its ok, I haven't got a fire extinguisher :oops:.

I know that I have a battery drain somewhere from the alarm/immobiliser department that is causing the battery to go flat but because the vehicle is SORNed for the winter, I am unable to get it to the dealer for them to work their (expensive) magic on it so hence me wanting to keep the battery topped up. I did not have the courage (or knowledge) to leave the battery connected to the vehicle whilst I charged it so I opted to remove the connection and just put the charger on that way. The vehicle battery systems are now obviously not operative but as I am able to keep the vehicle at home and not in full view, I took a gamble on it being safe whilst 'unarmed'!:rolleyes:
Some people on here were vey helpful trying to help me find the battery drain but in the end I gave up and will wait. The end of last year was a difficult time here following a recent bereavement. I have found peeps 'ere so kind and helpful.:)
Have you seen the CTEK connector that gstuart showed on one of his threads? It connects to the 'grey' plug on the towbar electrics. I have just bought one and think I will try that way of using the charger so that I can have the battery connected to the vehicle at the same time. It is fused so that might give me a bit more confidence to use it!!!
 
Have you seen the CTEK connector that gstuart showed on one of his threads? It connects to the 'grey' plug on the towbar electrics. I have just bought one and think I will try that way of using the charger so that I can have the battery connected to the vehicle at the same time. It is fused so that might give me a bit more confidence to use it!!!
My charger came with a lead with eyelets to connect to the battery and a plug on the other end to connect to the lead from the charger. The plug on the charger lead connects to either the lead connected to the battery or the crocodile clips for "normal" connection to the battery. The plan is to permanently connect the eyelet lead and run an extension lead from that into the garage where it will connect to the charger. The extension lead with plugs is available as an extra item for about £12. But the eyelet lead is a bit short for what I want so I will have to splice in an extra few inches. When it is done the plug will be under the passenger seat, just lift out the seat pad (3 seconds) and plug the charger in.
 
My charger came with a lead with eyelets to connect to the battery and a plug on the other end to connect to the lead from the charger. The plug on the charger lead connects to either the lead connected to the battery or the crocodile clips for "normal" connection to the battery. The plan is to permanently connect the eyelet lead and run an extension lead from that into the garage where it will connect to the charger. The extension lead with plugs is available as an extra item for about £12. But the eyelet lead is a bit short for what I want so I will have to splice in an extra few inches. When it is done the plug will be under the passenger seat, just lift out the seat pad (3 seconds) and plug the charger in.
I trailed mine forwards and made it "hidden" behind the radiator grill. To use it I just fish it out and connect the CTEK. ATM I pop the Ctek under the bonnet so it is out of view and the weather.
I can of course put the Ctk on the garage wall and run a lead to outside and connect that way too and not have to open the bonnet. Even though it is only 7A it does a fine job I think.
 
Mine, too. came with a multitude of leads but the difficulty in a motorhome is that the battery is under the floor on the passenger side. When I say under the floor I mean under a metal cover which is under a rubber cover which is under the carpet! There is a connection in the engine bay to enable me to connect the charger but this means that the bonnet has to be left ajar so as to get the power cable out. The advantage of the tow bar electrics is that I can just squeeze the connector cable through the rear window and into the van where the charger is connected to the electricity which is always connected so that the 'habitation' battery is on constant charge through its own system charger. One thing worth pointing out is that the motorhome is always outside so my electricity for the charger has to be plugged in via the motorhome's 240v system.
I'm getting out of my depth now!!!!!!!!!!!!:rolleyes:
 
I know that I have a battery drain somewhere from the alarm/immobiliser department that is causing the battery to go flat
Same here. Started to be a nuisance after I stopped using the landy on a daily basis when I re-tyred and after adding some security devices which gobble extra battery power, so I know where the drain is. Been monitoring for a while, typical volt drop is 0.01 to 0.02 volts per day which seems a lot. The official JLR workshop manual states vehicles in storage should have battery charged once a month, which is what it now needs. I checked voltage a couple of days ago, it was showing only 12.33V but fired up instantly. I reckon it has fired up on a lot less than that in the past, but not recommended.
 
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