I would just like to say

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Afternoon folks :).

Well its ot, ot , ot out there so hiding inside. forecast is low 30s this week, pool already up to 24 when testing this morning:).
It may have a body chucked at it tomorrow🏊‍♂️ best put the stairs in first so I can get me old bones out easier after:oops:.

J
 
Ok sports fans, a part in Stainless Steel has been produced on the 62 YO "Lathe of Doom".

"About ruddy time too!" they all shouted.

I have to admit that it has been a very, very trying process.

Metric threading on an imperial lathe, "Work Hardening" Stainless Steel (304) 12mm through bore holes etc.

3 SS blanks got ruined/destroyed/borked, tools got broken, tears were shed and the workshop swear-jar is full to overflowing.

But every day is a school day full of learnings. :D

But, at long last we have a single part (they usually go around in 2's so at least one more must be made).
Here it is, the part at the top is the SA original, below is the "Clarke Industries" copy.
Mine is longer only because I could and it can be trimmed to length to match either the £43 SA QR axles or your own prefered bolt-length as required.

I will make its partner because that is the right thing to do, but I shall probably take another bike forum member's advice and make them in mild steel and nickel plate them from now on.

Why? Well because Stainless I have found to be a lot harder to work with by comparison.

But YES, we can do it if required. :)

image.png
 
Yes it once had a caravan body on the chassis
Has a plate somewhere I suppose 🤔
Indespension units would be a ton each I presume
"Most home made trailers have the indespension type(rubber torsion).They come in 250,350,500.750 and 1000.The 750kg and 1000kg usually have brakes and 8 fixing holes,the 500 and 350 are unbraked and have 6 fixing holes,the 250kg,again unbraked normally have 4 fixing holes but I have just used a pair with 6 fixing holes.

Bear in mind that the max weight on the suspension units will also include the trailer itself.

Generally it's the 500kg units that are used and that is alot of camping gear to carry.

Also when you have a look at the trailer frame check that there is movement in the suspension as the rubber in these units tend to go hard if not used for prolonged periods.Also,check for movement in the bearings and lift the frame up and spin the wheel,if you hear a dry rumbling noise the bearings have had it.

New suspension units and bearings will come to around £100."
This from an oldish thread on a camping type forum https://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=3&TopicID=263550&ThreadPage=1
So I can't help but think that each one may only be 750kgs.

Not that I am knocking your trailer which looks useful.
I was going to ask, does it have any ramps with it?
My twin axle, huge, box trailer, with therefore 4 Indespension units, could carry, if memory serves 2650 Kgs. And it was purpose built by AJC. So none of the units were even 1000kg ones. It is braked by the way as I expect yours is, I'll have to go back and have another look at the pics.

EDIT, I can see a plate on it, near the handbrake. It "looks" braked with the rubber boot on it, and the handbrake, etc, but I cannot see a draw bar, maybe that is just the angle of the photo.
 
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Ok sports fans, a part in Stainless Steel has been produced on the 62 YO "Lathe of Doom".

"About ruddy time too!" they all shouted.

I have to admit that it has been a very, very trying process.

Metric threading on an imperial lathe, "Work Hardening" Stainless Steel (304) 12mm through bore holes etc.

3 SS blanks got ruined/destroyed/borked, tools got broken, tears were shed and the workshop swear-jar is full to overflowing.

But every day is a school day full of learnings. :D

But, at long last we have a single part (they usually go around in 2's so at least one more must be made).
Here it is, the part at the top is the SA original, below is the "Clarke Industries" copy.
Mine is longer only because I could and it can be trimmed to length to match either the £43 SA QR axles or your own prefered bolt-length as required.

I will make its partner because that is the right thing to do, but I shall probably take another bike forum member's advice and make them in mild steel and nickel plate them from now on.

Why? Well because Stainless I have found to be a lot harder to work with by comparison.

But YES, we can do it if required. :)

image.png
Well done!
What tensile strength do you think you have there compared to high tensile bolts etc.
I too love the look of stainless but avoid working with it as much as I can for the reasons you say.
Except for welding, which with the right wire is fine.
 
Yes it once had a caravan body on the chassis
Has a plate somewhere I suppose 🤔
Indespension units would be a ton each I presume

They do so many with different wt limits for the Indespension units, I wouldn't guess.
Don't know if "they" have numbers on them?
Ex caravan should have a plate, but safe to say it cant take much so stick with the 1t, Not a car trailer :oops:.

But I expect it would sell quite quick.

I have lost track of trailer laws in the UK as to what peeps can or cant tow, so finding the plate may help.

J
 
Well done!
What tensile strength do you think you have there compared to high tensile bolts etc.
I too love the look of stainless but avoid working with it as much as I can for the reasons you say.
Except for welding, which with the right wire is fine.
Hard to say strength-wise.
The original SA QA axle tube as they supply today is still Nickel plated steel, but they swapped from "other" to stainless for the QR axles a few years ago. I prefer the QR axle-tube mounting system for the drum hubs but I often use 12.9 hardness bolts in the tubes as axles (it's cheaper and they are stronger). I have crashed into a bollard and bent an axle-tube, QR-axle and buckled a wheel before now. Hence my desire to make my own parts when you cannot buy spares, only whole brand-new replacements.

As someone who only ever touched a lathe as a 12 year old in Grammar school this has been a whole new experience. :)
 
Ok sports fans, a part in Stainless Steel has been produced on the 62 YO "Lathe of Doom".

"About ruddy time too!" they all shouted.

I have to admit that it has been a very, very trying process.

Metric threading on an imperial lathe, "Work Hardening" Stainless Steel (304) 12mm through bore holes etc.

3 SS blanks got ruined/destroyed/borked, tools got broken, tears were shed and the workshop swear-jar is full to overflowing.

But every day is a school day full of learnings. :D

But, at long last we have a single part (they usually go around in 2's so at least one more must be made).
Here it is, the part at the top is the SA original, below is the "Clarke Industries" copy.
Mine is longer only because I could and it can be trimmed to length to match either the £43 SA QR axles or your own prefered bolt-length as required.

I will make its partner because that is the right thing to do, but I shall probably take another bike forum member's advice and make them in mild steel and nickel plate them from now on.

Why? Well because Stainless I have found to be a lot harder to work with by comparison.

But YES, we can do it if required. :)

image.png
Even an ole fiddle will still turn out some enjoyment ;).

Great work Dan, Oh and its probably cheaper to trash a bit of SS than play golf;).


J
 
"Most home made trailers have the indespension type(rubber torsion).They come in 250,350,500.750 and 1000.The 750kg and 1000kg usually have brakes and 8 fixing holes,the 500 and 350 are unbraked and have 6 fixing holes,the 250kg,again unbraked normally have 4 fixing holes but I have just used a pair with 6 fixing holes.

Bear in mind that the max weight on the suspension units will also include the trailer itself.

Generally it's the 500kg units that are used and that is alot of camping gear to carry.

Also when you have a look at the trailer frame check that there is movement in the suspension as the rubber in these units tend to go hard if not used for prolonged periods.Also,check for movement in the bearings and lift the frame up and spin the wheel,if you hear a dry rumbling noise the bearings have had it.

New suspension units and bearings will come to around £100."
This from an oldish thread on a camping type forum https://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=3&TopicID=263550&ThreadPage=1
So I can't help but think that each one may only be 750kgs.

Not that I am knocking your trailer which looks useful.
I was going to ask, does it have any ramps with it?
My twin axle, huge, box trailer, with therefore 4 Indespension units, could carry, if memory serves 2650 Kgs. And it was purpose built by AJC. So none of the units were even 1000kg ones. It is braked by the way as I expect yours is, I'll have to go back and have another look at the pics.

EDIT, I can see a plate on it, near the handbrake. It "looks" braked with the rubber boot on it, and the handbrake, etc, but I cannot see a draw bar, maybe that is just the angle of the photo.
Well...
The caravan weighed around 1500kg so the axle must have ton hubs to be safe I would have thought, it is braked and they work very well, handbrake all good as well.
I'm keeping the ramps as it isn't strong enough for cars unless it's a Caterham or similar.
The plate on the nearside of the chassis is just an ID number
I wouldn't put more than a ton on it as the caravan chassis are very flimsy,
 
Well...
The caravan weighed around 1500kg so the axle must have ton hubs to be safe I would have thought, it is braked and they work very well, handbrake all good as well.
I'm keeping the ramps as it isn't strong enough for cars unless it's a Caterham or similar.
The plate on the nearside of the chassis is just an ID number
I wouldn't put more than a ton on it as the caravan chassis are very flimsy,
Peeps build their own trailers for kit cars, as you say, Caterhams and the like are light, my Marlin weighs 715 kgs. When I took the Carisma for its MOT back in the days before SVA, I borrowed a mates car trailer that he built when he was Mini racing, it too was built on a caravan chassis. I think the Carisma weighed a bit more but the trailer stood for it.

I still say its a nice trailer. If you can weigh it on a weighbridge and state what type of Indespension units it has, you can tell the truth and let the buyer decide on what they want it for.

Best of luck flogging it.;):)
 
Just to let you know.
It was supposed to be rainy today, (It hasn't been. :rolleyes: )
So I decided to carry on with stripping down the faulty dishwasher that we are getting rid of. I had already taken the outer covers and a few other bits off. I was just doing this to reduce the weight so I could put it in the back if the Disco without giving me another hernia!
So yessdi got it down to the bottom section.
Moved it outside on the covered patio and cracked on.
First thing I found that I didn't expect was a huge chunk of concrete. Seen 'em on washing machines, obvs, but an oblong bit of heavy conrete once shifted lightened the rest somewhat!
Then eventually got the underplate off. Underneath was the biggest mouses nest I have ever seen.
1718124151068.jpeg

When shifting that I rapidly realised that it was this that had killed the DW.
1718124196731.jpeg


So the only damage was a few wires eaten through that would have been very easy to fix plus a hole in a pipe that again would have been an easy fix. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Where the coca-cola coloured water came from I do not know, unless the mouses nest acted like a sort of teabag when the water came out of that there 'ole!
So a bit annoying seeing as how half of it was already down the dump.
Every day is a skool day!
Got no need or room for it anyway.

(Did you notice the karma??!!)

So went down the mountain to take it and various other bits to the dump, the rain that was forecast for most of the day materialised in a few drops, but no 6:45 pm, it has finally broken and we are having "une bonne drache"!! (That lasted about 10 minutes.)
Enjoy the evening folks!
:):):)
 
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Just to let you know.
It was supposed to be rainy today, (It hasn't been. :rolleyes: )
So I decided to carry on with stripping down the faulty dishwasher that we are getting rid of. I had already taken the outer covers and a few other bits off. I was just doing this to reduce the weight so I could put it in the back if the Disco without giving me another hernia!
So yessdi got it down to the bottom section.
Moved it outside on the covered patio and cracked on.
First thing I found that I didn't expect was a huge chunk of concrete. Seen 'em on washing machines, obvs, but an oblong bit of heavy conrete once shifted lightened the rest somewhat!
Then eventually got the underplate off. Underneath was the biggest mouses nest I have ever seen.
View attachment 319052
When shifting that I rapidly realised that it was this that had killed the DW.
View attachment 319053

So the only damage was a few wires eaten through that would have been very easy to fix plus a hole in a pipe that again would have been an easy fix. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Where the coca-cola coloured water came from I do not no, unless the mouses nest acted like a sort of teabag when the water came out of that there 'ole!
So a bit annoying seeing as how half of it was already down the dump.
Every day is a skool day!
Got no need or room for it anyway.

(Did you notice the karma??!!)

So went down the mountain to take it and various other bits to the dump, the reain that was forecst for most of the day materialised in a few drops, but no 6:45 pm, it has finally broken and we are having "une bonne drache"!!
Enjoy the evening folks!
:):):)
Was it the mice damage before or after you stashed it in the shed though?

It’s gone now so don’t matter, sometimes “us” who keep “useful” stuff need to stop and just Chuck it out;).

J
 
Was it the mice damage before or after you stashed it in the shed though?

It’s gone now so don’t matter, sometimes “us” who keep “useful” stuff need to stop and just Chuck it out;).

J
It happened in the shed. It had been working perfectly. We brought it over once I had fitted the noo one in the noo kitchen in the UK, as we knew the other one wasn't heating its own water. But we left it in there years, as the other one seemed to be doing OK with water heated by solar. So not surprising. It came under the heading of "I'll swap it over when I get around to working on/fixing the other one properly". So it had a definite purpose, not just "in case". We have so little storage I can't carry on like I do back in blighty!
I am however kicking myself cos if I'd known the repair was so easy (and above all cheap) I'd have given it to those old neighbours whose own DW had gone west programmer wise. Either I or he, or both of us together would have fixed it.
It looked like it was much better built, and made, than the one I repaired. Less flimsy and the heating element looked brand new despite being used most of the time for about 10 years.
Still, at least we have the hall back now!
(I of course do have a small box of useful bits that I took off it. Like the pump, etc. Can't resist!) :rolleyes: ;)🤣
 
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