I would just like to say

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landowner said:
Help !!
Need to weld mild steel threaded bar to a leaf spring
Any advice please, need to make it work :)
Click to expand...
Going to think this out today
I have two leaf springs which I want to use as radius arms/trailing arms
Fastened to chassis at front as usual but finishing at the axle
Coil over shocks will take the weight and provide springing
Problem is how to fix springs to the axle so as they will rise and fall independently , need to have a flexible join at the spring.

Remember that cooking show where they got a potatoe, tin of lentels and an avacado and told to make a meal? well thats what this project is like, have to use what I got.
 
... I got my Screwfix order OK, and the Wife's Pavers (50).
Darling girl has dug out and laid the pavers already, bless her little cottons. :)
My moving skates came and I put them under the 4 corners of the lathe with the use of a farm jack.
The lathe has flattened the moving skates and they don't "move" :(
What to do now, Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....?
 
landowner said:
Going to think this out today
I have two leaf springs which I want to use as radius arms/trailing arms
Fastened to chassis at front as usual but finishing at the axle
Coil over shocks will take the weight and provide springing
Problem is how to fix springs to the axle so as they will rise and fall independently , need to have a flexible join at the spring.

Remember that cooking show where they got a potatoe, tin of lentels and an avacado and told to make a meal? well thats what this project is like, have to use what I got.
Click to expand...
At each end or the axle, two U bolts with the threaded ends up, to which you could affix a plate, (with rubber between it and the spring). To the plate weld two others, vertical, with 'oles drilled in em. Thorugh which you place a bolt which passes through the eye of the coil over.
What do you think?
No need to weld anything to the spring. If you are worried about the plate slipping, drill a hole through the middle of it and the same place on the spring so you can bolt them both together.
The shocks on the rear of my Marlin are fixed similar to this, only in that case the plates bolted to the (in my case centres of) the springs have extensions sideways with holes drilled in them. The ends of the shocks are bolts which go through them and have therefore nuts underneath. This is done so that the shocks slope inwards to help with roadholding on what are otherwise very free semi-elliptics.
You could do this instead if it would work for you.
 
Last edited:
Stanleysteamer said:
At each end or the axle, two U bolts with the threaded ends up, to which you could affix a plate, (with rubber between it and the spring). To the plate weld two others, vertical, with 'oles drilled in em. Thorugh which you place a bolt which passes through the eye of the coil over.
What do you think?
No need to weld anything. If you are worried about the plate slipping, drill a hole through the middle of it and the same place on the spring so you can bolt them both together.
The shocks on the rear of my Marlin are fixed similar to this, only in that case the plates bolted to the (in my case centres of) the springs have extensions sideways with holes drilled in them. The ends of the shocks are bolts which go through them and have therefore nuts underneath. This is done so that the shocks slope inwards to help with roadholding on what are otherwise very free semi-elliptics.
You could do this instead if it would work for you.
Click to expand...
👍👍👍
 
Stanleysteamer said:
At each end or the axle, two U bolts with the threaded ends up, to which you could affix a plate, (with rubber between it and the spring). To the plate weld two others, vertical, with 'oles drilled in em. Thorugh which you place a bolt which passes through the eye of the coil over.
What do you think?
No need to weld anything to the spring. If you are worried about the plate slipping, drill a hole through the middle of it and the same place on the spring so you can bolt them both together.
The shocks on the rear of my Marlin are fixed similar to this, only in that case the plates bolted to the (in my case centres of) the springs have extensions sideways with holes drilled in them. The ends of the shocks are bolts which go through them and have therefore nuts underneath. This is done so that the shocks slope inwards to help with roadholding on what are otherwise very free semi-elliptics.
You could do this instead if it would work for you.
Click to expand...
Sounds good but the trailing spring will have to meet the axle half way up rather than top or bottom, this is to allow free movement of the steering arms at top of axle,

Axle this way up otherwise it will bottom out on chassis fitted the other way up
 

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landowner said:
Sounds good but the trailing spring will have to meet the axle half way up rather than top or bottom, this is to allow free movement of the steering arms at top of axle,


Axle this way up otherwise it will bottom out on chassis fitted the other way up
Click to expand...
I think if you can put up a diagram of the ideal set up we might be able to come up with something. At the moment I am beginning to wonder why you want to use the spring at all and not simply make something up out of thin box section with a bit welded on the end to go halfway round the axle.
Maybe the simplest thing would be to weld a ring to the axle or a plate with two plates sticking out in whichever direction it needs to which you could then bolt the spring/shock and then the shortened spring.
Despite the pic still having trouble visualising what you need. My fault, sorry!
Failing that maybe you could put two 45 degree angled bits of box section with rings welded on the centre of the axle so that the arms would go at 45 degs out to the chassis mounting points, like the awful set up at the rear of the Ford Cortina marks 3 and 4.
Remember the dreaded void bushes?
 
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Turktowner said:
Has been learning putty in today. Frustrating, but satisfying when it goes right first time. Being fairly hambidextrus cack hander is a bonus :)
Click to expand...
Having worked it a good long time wiv yer 'ands, messy but fun! Roll it into sossidges and using a propa putty knife, the way hopefully you have been shown, tis fun!:):):)
Hain't needed to do it for ages, wot wiv plastic double galzed units anorl!
Dun even know where my putty knife is! :rolleyes:
 
...lathe fitted with flexible conduit and the recovered 3 phase cable was long enough to reach from the VFD power box to the motor. I wheeled the lathe back against the wall and lifted each end in turn with the Farm Jack to remove the skates.
A quick tidy-up and now having a relaxing drink. :D
 
DanClarke said:
...lathe fitted with flexible conduit and the recovered 3 phase cable was long enough to reach from the VFD power box to the motor. I wheeled the lathe back against the wall and lifted each end in turn with the Farm Jack to remove the skates.
A quick tidy-up and now having a relaxing drink. :D
Click to expand...
Good for you, you must be chuffed to the rafters!!!
Happy for you!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I think if you can put up a diagram of the ideal set up we might be able to come up with something. At the moment I am beginning to wonder why you want to use the spring at all and not simply make something up out of thin box section with a bit welded on the end to go halfway round the axle.
Maybe the simplest thing would be to weld a ring to the axle or a plate with two plates sticking out in whichever direction it needs to which you could then bolt the spring/shock and then the shortened spring.
Despite the pic still having trouble visualising what you need. My fault, sorry!
Failing that maybe you could put two 45 degree angled bits of box section with rings welded on the centre of the axle so that the arms would go at 45 degs out to the chassis mounting points, like the awful set up at the rear of the Ford Cortina marks 3 and 4.
Remember the dreaded void bushes?
Click to expand...
Need cart spring on so you can see it from front like a real one
 

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