I Wanted One, I Bought One, I Don't Know Why, is This Normal?

NinkyNonk · Aug 16, 2015

Turboman said:
Garage will never match the price of own service, all you need to buy is engine oil, 2 kinds of gear oil, and a few filters.

We remove the windscreens by sitting in the front seat, putting feet against the screen, and pushing it out. Obvious points, wear trainers, not hobnails. And have an assistant to take the screen before it smashes on the ground! Get a new seal first!
With the door pillar rust, rake out existing rust, and remove the little plastic trims around the bottom of the door pillar inside, and you should find enough holes to spray dinitrol in, and up the pillar, without removing screen.

Helpful again, knowing my luck I'll break the seat pushing out the screen, will get some dinitrol ordered with the 600mm tube just in case it's needed.

Have to see about the service, it's got partial service history with it, but plenty of receipts, so I'm not sure if it's worth a garage doing it. My mate will get all bits trade and will be a matter of a few beer tokens for his time. Also I'm a bit OCD about oil, in my tuned Focus I use oil that is used by Koenigsegg in there hyper cars lol. Did a bit of nosing about looking at oil types last night and there seems to be a split over what viscosity to use.

Turboman · Aug 17, 2015

NinkyNonk said:
Helpful again, knowing my luck I'll break the seat pushing out the screen, will get some dinitrol ordered with the 600mm tube just in case it's needed.

Have to see about the service, it's got partial service history with it, but plenty of receipts, so I'm not sure if it's worth a garage doing it. My mate will get all bits trade and will be a matter of a few beer tokens for his time. Also I'm a bit OCD about oil, in my tuned Focus I use oil that is used by Koenigsegg in there hyper cars lol. Did a bit of nosing about looking at oil types last night and there seems to be a split over what viscosity to use.

Good quality 10/40 mineral or semi-syn is fine. Different grades are used for very hot or cold climates, those are fine for uk. I have seen more old engines damaged by using too good oil than too bad!

Turboman · Aug 17, 2015

I use Total Rubia 10/40 TIR 7400. It is what my local oil merchant has. But any of the main equivalents are good too. BP Vanellus, Shell Helix, Chevron do one as well, cant remember the name atm. All good turbo diesel oils, been around for decades.
Magnatec and similar semi-syn are good too, but quite dear, better to use the min oil and change a bit more often if it pleases you!

nesponge · Aug 17, 2015

How frequently your change the oil is more important than how expensive.

Keep it changed every 4000 miles or 6 months and you will be fine.

NinkyNonk · Aug 17, 2015

Halfords 10w/40 part synthetic it is. Can't complain @ £12 for 4l. Wonder if my trade card will drop it further?

james6546 · Aug 17, 2015

Windscreen seal is easy. That bit that has bubbles around the windsceen is ali, so I wouldn't worry about it. Mine was like that, I just primered and then spray painted with some paint I got from ebay. You can't tell and it is metallic as well.
As for that bit at the side, flake the paint off, treat it with fertan (or similar) then primer and paint. It looks very similar to the condition of my bulkhead and mine is still in really good condition for its age (1998).
If you got the dinitrol cavity wax stuff, go in through the bungs where the LHD wiper arms go, and up from the bottom of the bulkhead. Keep an eye on the inside though, or you will end up with it all over the dash and it is sticky stuff

greyhair · Aug 17, 2015

Looks in good condition
a few little issues nothing major,
very nice

NinkyNonk · Aug 17, 2015

Thanks for all the advice people's. Much appreciated, if anyone needs any advice on Focus ST's please don't hesitate to ask. Lol. Wasted many hours of my life on those forums!

Turboman · Aug 17, 2015

james6546 said:
Windscreen seal is easy. That bit that has bubbles around the windsceen is ali, so I wouldn't worry about it. Mine was like that, I just primered and then spray painted with some paint I got from ebay. You can't tell and it is metallic as well.
As for that bit at the side, flake the paint off, treat it with fertan (or similar) then primer and paint. It looks very similar to the condition of my bulkhead and mine is still in really good condition for its age (1998).
If you got the dinitrol cavity wax stuff, go in through the bungs where the LHD wiper arms go, and up from the bottom of the bulkhead. Keep an eye on the inside though, or you will end up with it all over the dash and it is sticky stuff

I always take the carpets out first as well. It really does run out everywhere! Not too bad to remove form a metal plate, but soft stuff and fabric you wont get it out!

NinkyNonk · Aug 17, 2015

NorfolkBird said:
Can't you get your screen and seal replaced on insurance if it's stone chipped - that's how I got mine done.......

Sorry got too much happening at the moment, missed your post. Not sure on the legalities of it, as the screen isn't actually illegal or dangerous. Plus it would be remove on Friday, refit post corrosion removal/paint on Monday or Tuesday, so not sure how that would work if I was to do it through insurance if I could

Best way would be find a windscreen fitter and ask him to help me out. I'll cross that problem when I come to it, the screen may pop in and out no problem.

gemsdad · Aug 17, 2015

NinkyNonk said:
Thanks for all the advice people's. Much appreciated, if anyone needs any advice on Focus ST's please don't hesitate to ask. Lol. Wasted many hours of my life on those forums!

Please please,no using foul language on here,

NinkyNonk · Aug 17, 2015

gemsdad said:
Please please,no using foul language on here,

Haha.

I do hate the thing, if I hadn't wasted loads on modifying/replacing the engine it, it would be worth about 50% it's original purchase price 6 years ago, used car values seem to be crazy now people just finance everything. They're also quite tunable with just bolt on mods, if you buy used bits you can go from 225bhp and 236lb/ft to around 330bhp and 400lb/ft for £1500. The odd one does crack a liner though, and it chose mine. And the sound..................................

Sorry back on topic!!

gemsdad · Aug 17, 2015

Language,language,you have been warned.

NinkyNonk · Sep 13, 2015

Hello again everyone, just coming back for a quick update on what's been going on in the last month. I could lie and say I've been too busy, but I'm just lazy and have been messing with my bikes and looking at other cars.

I removed the two hinge blanks to see what corrosion was about, thankfully on the bulkhead there was only a small amount around the bolt holes. So that got treated primed and applied top coat. Decided to do the do the corrosion on the screen too which, again, really wan't as bad as I was expecting. So I decided to leave the screen in and do the best I can with it still in place, then primed and applied top coat. Same with the corrosion on the bulkhead near the passenger door, had a scrape around, treated the rusty areas, then primed and sealed. I got very few pictures of this process, mainly as I had to finish move it into a tiny garage for painting and it made me angry.

Did a few areas on the capping too, just to make it look better really.

The ol' girl's just had a service and MOT, passed with only a brake pipe needing replacement so happy days.

Had a new Bearmach thermostat installed whilst at it, the coolant wasn't getting up to temperature on my 13 mile drive to work in the morning, it hasn't even been cold, maybe 9 or 10 degrees? Whilst at it had some fresh coolant put in so I know it's up to the job over winter. I took it out for a drive for the first time today and the coolant was sitting dead centre within 3 miles, and the heater can now blow uncomfortably warm air if you hold your hand next to it the screen vents. All in all the best £5.95 I've spent on it to date.

I'm sorry to say I haven't done anything with the chassis yet, gave it a good going over with a pressure washer the other day and took a few random pics after it had dried out. Sorry phone pics.

It does look worse than I'd initially thought, but will do my best to get some form of treatment on/in it before the weather turns. Although just my luck, I have this week off work and the weather is turning in the next few hours

.

NinkyNonk · Oct 4, 2015

When I wasn't stupidly falling off my mountain bike this weekend I've been having a little nose around Defender, checked all fluids but that's a weekly thing anyway. Applied Vaseline around the sunroof seal as it was dripping from the open/close knob the other week. Thought I may as well before the rain comes in this week, see if it fixes it or not, but this seems to be the general fix that I've found.

Greased the propshafts, clean grease went in, clean grease came out, proper job!

Also noticed the vents seemed to be blowing in damp air after a rain shower the other day. Did a search and cleaned the drain valve from the cabin air inlet box. When I first looked at the valve I thought someone had replaced it with a blanking grommet, so I poured some water in and surprisingly it didn't drain away. Had a little poke around and the drain valve was filled with tiny bits of grit/sand, so cleaned it all out and it's actually working now. Considered changing the grille for a snow cowl to stop any water/snow/crud things getting in, but read they stop any free flowing air entering the cabin. Ended up looking at the Bearmach wing top intake, although Britpart do one a few £ cheaper. These would stop most rain/snow dropping in but work as a scoop dragging in air too. Will just have to check the fan lever shuts out the free flowing air this week, then may have to order one up.

Also been thinking about under sealing the old lump, decided I can't be bothered with the hassle of doing it myself, it's bad enough doing the propshafts on the drive. Edging towards Rustmaster as they seem to get some decent reviews(only a 280 mile round trip too haha). The only places I can find locally in Dorset seem to just be welders/body shops, and I'm worried they'd just seal moisture inside the chassis. Any suggestions in the South West appreciated, my search skills are pants.

Before I get the chassis treated though I need to replace the rear footstep, as I tried to fold it the other day and the bit I grabbed just crumbled in my hand. May as well install some raised breathers too whilst I'm at it. No point covering everything with under seal just to have to disturb it in the near future. Thinking of the wading kit from Gwyn Lewis 4x4 as it saves the hassle of sourcing all the bits individually. Also a Bearmach rear step.

Sorry it's nothing interesting to report but no harm in writing it up.

MrKnifey · Oct 5, 2015

Your Chassis doesn't look too bad mate, the rear cross member looks a million times better than mine! If I was you id wait until next year now, too much damp in the air now

I did mine when the weather was better, pressure washed it, drove it round to blow it out a little, let it dry, used a wire brush and slapped on the under-seal. I will be buying a galvanised chassis soon though as a job for next year. The way I look at it, if you can see rust on the outside its rusting on the inside and you cant clean/under-seal it correctly anyway..

I looked into the companies to steam clean/under-seal mine but the cost of it including travelling and realising my chassis will still probably be rusty any-ways.. there's no point

Other than that, nice looking Landy buddy!

They are addictive, I've had a couple over the years and keep coming back to them, finally bought myself a "keeper" hopefully!

Turboman · Oct 5, 2015

That chassis isn't too far gone, I would say. Doesn't sem to have rusted through, but very dry and a lot of surface rust. It seems to have had a rear section quite recently, there is a lot more paint on the rear chassis legs then further forward.
You are on the right track with the thorough washing. Ideally you want to get some protection on that before winter. For a thorough job you could remove rear tub, and scrape and paint the chassis, and spray dinitrol inside.
For a holding action, get a sprayer of waxoyl mixed with oil,slather it on everywhere you can reach. Dintrol or used gear oil inside. That shoud prevent further rusting over winter.

MrKnifey · Oct 5, 2015

Personally, unless we have a good dry spell for a week or so, id avoid it for now. Unless you have a garage you can leave it in for a week?

Turboman · Oct 5, 2015

MrKnifey said:
Personally, unless we have a good dry spell for a week or so, id avoid it for now. Unless you have a garage you can leave it in for a week?

Partly why I suggested it, not had a drop of rain here for ten days, until last night. And not all that much then.

And BTW, underseal will rot your chassis quicker than anything else!

bankz5152 · Oct 5, 2015

NinkyNonk said:
When I wasn't stupidly falling off my mountain bike this weekend I've been having a little nose around Defender, checked all fluids but that's a weekly thing anyway. Applied Vaseline around the sunroof seal as it was dripping from the open/close knob the other week. Thought I may as well before the rain comes in this week, see if it fixes it or not, but this seems to be the general fix that I've found.

Greased the propshafts, clean grease went in, clean grease came out, proper job!

Also noticed the vents seemed to be blowing in damp air after a rain shower the other day. Did a search and cleaned the drain valve from the cabin air inlet box. When I first looked at the valve I thought someone had replaced it with a blanking grommet, so I poured some water in and surprisingly it didn't drain away. Had a little poke around and the drain valve was filled with tiny bits of grit/sand, so cleaned it all out and it's actually working now. Considered changing the grille for a snow cowl to stop any water/snow/crud things getting in, but read they stop any free flowing air entering the cabin. Ended up looking at the Bearmach wing top intake, although Britpart do one a few £ cheaper. These would stop most rain/snow dropping in but work as a scoop dragging in air too. Will just have to check the fan lever shuts out the free flowing air this week, then may have to order one up.
View attachment 91390
Also been thinking about under sealing the old lump, decided I can't be bothered with the hassle of doing it myself, it's bad enough doing the propshafts on the drive. Edging towards Rustmaster as they seem to get some decent reviews(only a 280 mile round trip too haha). The only places I can find locally in Dorset seem to just be welders/body shops, and I'm worried they'd just seal moisture inside the chassis. Any suggestions in the South West appreciated, my search skills are pants.

Before I get the chassis treated though I need to replace the rear footstep, as I tried to fold it the other day and the bit I grabbed just crumbled in my hand. May as well install some raised breathers too whilst I'm at it. No point covering everything with under seal just to have to disturb it in the near future. Thinking of the wading kit from Gwyn Lewis 4x4 as it saves the hassle of sourcing all the bits individually. Also a Bearmach rear step.

Sorry it's nothing interesting to report but no harm in writing it up.

Might be better off with a snow cowl

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