Turboman
Mab An Gov
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- 60,151
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- Lathrowda, Kernow
+1
And try and post some pics of the chassis, specially rear legs, xmember, and around the spring hangers and outriggers.
I Wanted One, I Bought One, I Don't Know Why, is This Normal?
- Thread starter NinkyNonk
- Start date
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And try and post some pics of the chassis, specially rear legs, xmember, and around the spring hangers and outriggers.
daddy2coull
Active Member
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- 645
good looking fender. watch out though, they're like pringles
So here are the bad points I've found so far.
Not pictured, the engine drops a few drops of oil overnight, nothing too major so it's not a major priority until my parents decide to tarmac the drive.
Nothing too major here either, the tub floor has a few holes so will repair at some point if it becomes a problem. I never really load anything in at the moment that warrants it.
Potentially the start of a big problem here, I overlooked this when I bought it, my fault but oh well, what's done is done. Hopefully get this rubbed down treated and soon. Before winter at a guess. Worse case scenario, I take it apart get it galvanized and put back together.
The capping has a few areas of rust which could become a problem at some point, so the roof may have to come off for some galvanized ones to be put on. The rear door frame is past it's best, it leaves rust on the door thresh, but my mate says it doesn't look that bad inside(I haven't seen it, he looked whilst he was changing the oils when I first got it). The recess for the door handle has rusted through too which has most likely contributed somewhat to the rusting frame. Not sure if this is available separately or if I'll have to buy some aluminium and fabricate something to replace the rusted steel.
Cheers for looking people. As you can now see, never trust a photo haha.
Not pictured, the engine drops a few drops of oil overnight, nothing too major so it's not a major priority until my parents decide to tarmac the drive.
Nothing too major here either, the tub floor has a few holes so will repair at some point if it becomes a problem. I never really load anything in at the moment that warrants it.
Potentially the start of a big problem here, I overlooked this when I bought it, my fault but oh well, what's done is done. Hopefully get this rubbed down treated and soon. Before winter at a guess. Worse case scenario, I take it apart get it galvanized and put back together.
The capping has a few areas of rust which could become a problem at some point, so the roof may have to come off for some galvanized ones to be put on. The rear door frame is past it's best, it leaves rust on the door thresh, but my mate says it doesn't look that bad inside(I haven't seen it, he looked whilst he was changing the oils when I first got it). The recess for the door handle has rusted through too which has most likely contributed somewhat to the rusting frame. Not sure if this is available separately or if I'll have to buy some aluminium and fabricate something to replace the rusted steel.
Cheers for looking people. As you can now see, never trust a photo haha.
Last edited:
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
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- 67,807
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- halfway between here and there.
Wouldn't be a land rover,if it did not leak oil,but get the rust sorted asap,or you will be left with a set of wheels and tyres.
Will do my best, will get the pressure washer out and give it a blast off. I'm sure there will be a few more things pop up along the way.
I won't be getting another, my dad seems quite interested in it though. Whenever I'm messing around on the drive he normally pops out to see what's going on and see if he can help!
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Rust on the upper door pillar, clean it out, spray loads of dinitrol inside, rub down, fill and paint, should buy you a few years.
Cappings and handle recess commonly rust on these, they are cheap and available.
Afraid my best guess is the door frames will be dust, unless any have been replaced!
Cappings and handle recess commonly rust on these, they are cheap and available.
Afraid my best guess is the door frames will be dust, unless any have been replaced!
Thanks for the advice Turboman, it is appreciated. I wish it was a flat colour, it would be so much easier to paint after repairing. Must remember it's a Landrover
Luckily I'm fairly handy with a windy as my apprenticeship covered structural/sheet work and such like, so I could probably most bodywork issues if I really needed to. Just need my dad to finish the workshops he's building to have somewhere cosy to work.
Luckily I'm fairly handy with a windy as my apprenticeship covered structural/sheet work and such like, so I could probably most bodywork issues if I really needed to. Just need my dad to finish the workshops he's building to have somewhere cosy to work.
NorfolkBird
Well-Known Member
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Hi- looks great - what spray did you use? I need to do mine......
Cheers very much.Hi- looks great - what spray did you use? I need to do mine......
I used Hycote plastic primer, then Hycote satin black. I washed the grilles using warm water with fairy liquid and a scotch brite pad. Rinsed, allowed to dry, then wiped over with IPA to degrease. Primed with about 4 light coats, left to dry for 24 hours. I used just under one 400ml can of the primer but some areas were very lightly covered. The next day went lightly over them with another scotch brite pad to smooth off any imperfections(tiny bugs mainly as I sprayed it outside) and give a key for the paint, then rinsed and once dry a wipe with IPA to degrease. Same process as the primer for the paint, although ended up doing about 5 or 6 reasonable coats and used 2 400ml cans in total to make sure everything was well covered. Allowed to dry for 24 hours then refitted.
Don't know if the primer was even needed but for the sake of a few £ I thought may as well.
I struggle giving short answers in case you can't tell.
NorfolkBird
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No that's great, thanks! I have my first Defender and it needs a few jobs - will be doing the rust too next!
NorfolkBird
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Bye the way pls keep posting your progress as it's really useful. God luck too!No that's great, thanks! I have my first Defender and it needs a few jobs - will be doing the rust too next!
No worries. I've think they're generally cheap to repair. However they need repairs quite oftenNo that's great, thanks! I have my first Defender and it needs a few jobs - will be doing the rust too next!
Will do, you too, have you started a thread??Bye the way pls keep posting your progress as it's really useful. God luck too!
NorfolkBird
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No net yet, will do 'tho as will need to post pics when I ask stupid questions! I am total novice but have taken to reading Haynes manuals, Googling odd queries and watching a lot of YouTube videos about Land Rovers!
It's amazing what youtube comes in handy for, that's where I looked for the seat foams. I'm a novice too, never worked on any of my cars, I can't use the electronics as an excuse on this. I'm even considering servicing mine, only thing putting me off is my mate could probably do it cheaper as he's in the trade.
Just looking at the corrosion around the windscreen, best option will probably be to remove the screen!
Done some searching, looks like fun. Ah well the seal's looking a bit ropey anyway, and there's a couple of chips in the screen. Downside being I've just attached a new DAB aerial onto the current screen, reckon it'll be a PITA to remove without breaking it. To buy a new screen or not that's the question.
First things first though, buy a dremel and some rust inhibitor and sort out the corrosion evident on the bulkhead.
MOT/service soon too, but I think it's in pretty good shape for that.
!Done some searching, looks like fun
. Ah well the seal's looking a bit ropey anyway, and there's a couple of chips in the screen. Downside being I've just attached a new DAB aerial onto the current screen, reckon it'll be a PITA to remove without breaking it. To buy a new screen or not that's the question.First things first though, buy a dremel and some rust inhibitor and sort out the corrosion evident on the bulkhead.
MOT/service soon too, but I think it's in pretty good shape for that.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Garage will never match the price of own service, all you need to buy is engine oil, 2 kinds of gear oil, and a few filters.
We remove the windscreens by sitting in the front seat, putting feet against the screen, and pushing it out. Obvious points, wear trainers, not hobnails. And have an assistant to take the screen before it smashes on the ground!Just looking at the corrosion around the windscreen, best option will probably be to remove the screen
Done some searching, looks like fun
First things first though, buy a dremel and some rust inhibitor and sort out the corrosion evident on the bulkhead.
MOT/service soon too, but I think it's in pretty good shape for that.
Get a new seal first!With the door pillar rust, rake out existing rust, and remove the little plastic trims around the bottom of the door pillar inside, and you should find enough holes to spray dinitrol in, and up the pillar, without removing screen.
nesponge
Active Member
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- 487
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- Northumberland
A quick tip...
you can get good results with a hot air gun... brings the plastic up like new again and no messy paint to worry about.
NorfolkBird
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That's what I'm aiming for.
RE: YouTube there is so much rubbish on there but then you find something really useful eh! Just takes time.....!
NorfolkBird
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Can't you get your screen and seal replaced on insurance if it's stone chipped - that's how I got mine done.......Just looking at the corrosion around the windscreen, best option will probably be to remove the screen
Done some searching, looks like fun
First things first though, buy a dremel and some rust inhibitor and sort out the corrosion evident on the bulkhead.
Can't you get your screen and seal replaced on insurance if it's stone chipped? That's how I got mine done....
MOT/service soon too, but I think it's in pretty good shape for that.
