Muddy goose
Active Member
- Posts
- 167
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- West Sussex
When I did that to check the noise I had no driveYou could take the front prop off temporarily if the car is needed.
When I did that to check the noise I had no driveYou could take the front prop off temporarily if the car is needed.
Well only as test drives lately, I so hope I haven’t buggered the transferboxI wouldn't drive it like that. The front and rear props are fighting each other putting a hell of a load on the centre diff.
Happened to a guy I used to shoot with he got a recall on his VW toe rag V10 they'd put a wrong axle on it during building,it was from the smaller engined diesel variant.It went in and had the axle, gearbox, transfer box and all tyres changed£££££££ There had been a storm and a tree branch had broken his door mirror,He priced one and trade was just under a grand plus the dreaded.When he got the call to pick his car up the service manager apologised and said they had to fit a new mirror because it must have been broken in the dealers compound. he inquired what happened to the old tyres ,they still had them and put them in his boot, they'd done less than a thousand miles.Happy daysYes count the teeth on the crown wheel and the pinion then cross reference
different diffs would kind off make things go a bit funny
Just counted the teeth on the back diff and it was RRC and it is 4.7 so perhaps the front diff when I take it off this weekend will be a 3.54?
Do I make the match with 3.54’s, will that improve mpg and keep the revs lower on the v8?
I
You're posting in the wrong subforum, it's freelanders that have the monopoly on different ratio diffs and the ensuing transmission windup issues.Well I’ve found out what it is……different ratio diffs!
You'll need to engage centre difflock to make it drive with only one prop.When I did that to check the noise I had no drive
I've run the numbers through a spreadsheet I've made, here's your speeds / RPMs with a LT95 and it's 1.11 ratio integral transfer box with the RRC's 205/80R16 tyres and 3.54 diff's fitted:
View attachment 267720
Here's the same numbers with a 4.7 ratio diffs:
View attachment 267721
You'll knock 1058RPM off of on a motorway at 70mph speed. I don't have dyno data from 3.5 RV8 as is in your motor, but I've plotted these speeds against a 4.0 TVR v8's dyno:
View attachment 267723
I'd imagine the TVR engine will make more power than your 3.5 does, but the curve would be similar shape, just shifted upwards. Anyways, as you can see, the (TVR) v8 isn't knocked out of it's powerband by the change in diff ratio, so I'd say go with the 3.54 diffs, save fuel, and enjoy the vehicle more often and less expensively.
So after lots of bruised knuckles I’ve pin pointed the Issue.
Fitting the incorrect rear diff, has wound up the diff in the transferbox of the LT95 gearbox.
So far I’ve taken apart the main box and replaced the main bearing just in case it had been overworked.
Refitted gearbox to vehicle with a new clutch thrust bearing, as it is as noisey anyway from the first installation.
Fitted front and rear prop shafts, raised the rear axel on axel stands, and ran in reverse gear to see if I could unwind the transferbox. Removed front diff and turned the transferbox front drive, still makes a clunking noise (sounds like teeth not quite matching), so that didn’t work, dam it.
looks like I need to strip the transferbox apart to see what’s damaged, all looks good from above with no visible signs of damage.
The question is, what did I damage by winding up the transferbox, would it be the thrust washers inside the diff where all the little side gears are, ir would it be the Belleville plates that have gone flat?
The LT95 certainly has me at my limits of abilities, it’s such a shame the knowledge is disappearing.
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