How do you sync the key fob please?

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wammers said:
Try putting key in door with door unlocked. Press lock button and turn to lock position, return to upright and let go of button. Press unlock button and turn to unlock position return to upright release button. Remove key and press fob to lock. See what you get.
Click to expand...

This process has not worked, thanks anyway Wammers.

Chris
 
hi chris .sorry missed your call this morning ,, how did you get on with it ?????????? im down at my caravan till sunday ,but will give you a ring if I don't hear from you cheers mate ,,,mozz:crazy_driver:
 
mozz smith said:
hi chris .sorry missed your call this morning ,, how did you get on with it ?????????? im down at my caravan till sunday ,but will give you a ring if I don't hear from you cheers mate ,,,mozz:crazy_driver:
Click to expand...
Hi Mozz, thanks for talking me through the process and the E-mail. Still not sorted though, I will need to buy an updated RF receiver, and have a look at my MSV-2 to see if I can see anything behind the scenes thats causing theproblem. Just a real pain in the ar$e using the key code every time I want to start the car.....at least I know the process for the EKA code off by heart now.....

Cheers all.
 
hi chris , did you do the battery / ignition to 1st turn test ????????? also you can disconnect the blue wire and then follow my script again , but to me Im of the mind that you need to renew the r,f, receiver as I told you ,,try island 4x4 they stock them and give them the part no I gave you ,,ok matey best of luck ,try datatek for instructions with your faultmate cos im not sure about them ,,please keep me updated cheers and kind regards MOZZ:crazy_driver:
 
Funny this should be mentioned.... I have the same annoying fault when my splitXXse wife fails to lock her door. Due to central locking fault if the car isn't secured properly it goes into engine immobilisation. Without a working fob it's impossible to clear the message and the car won't start. However.... If you turn the key 4 times to the left and then enter the EKA code you can, at least, start the car. It's important ,though, that you return the key to the central position after each turn. As for the re-furb nonsense with the fob.. well I happen to be another victim, but I'll try the suggestion made on here. I can't be any worse off!!!!
 
*EDIT "Was" having this exact same issue after installing new battery where I cannot get the FOB to sync. Keep having to use EKA to start the car. CDL, Keyswitch & Door Ajar microswitches are all working correctly.

Nanocom shows "no valid fob signal received", although the FOB led lights up ok.
Entering EKA via Nanocom does not work, although it shows BECM version as 37. (not sure about label)
I have tried the various fob sync methods in door lock and ignition barrel. The led does flash when I turn the key in ignition, but still does not sync.
BECM settings screenshots attached.

UPDATE. Just unplugged the RF Filter box I got from @martyuk and then entered EKA again. Put key in ignition & started car. Fob buttons now work.

@martyuk I guess your filter box might be blocking the fob sync messages ?? Can you verify if this is true, or I just got lucky after entering the EKA ?

IMG_0395.jpeg IMG_0396.jpeg IMG_0397.jpeg IMG_0398.jpeg IMG_0399.jpeg IMG_0400.jpeg
 
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For anyone and appears there are a few who do not understand this.. I will say again, If dash says engine immobilised enter EKA or press fob and nothing happens when you press fob because fob has lost sync. YOU CANNOT SYNC FOB UNTIL EKA CODE HAS BEEN ENTERED AND ACCEPTED.
 
Tony,
Exact message was "engine disabled . . press remote". There was no "enter eka" message. Obviously the fob buttons were not being received, so I entered EKA, and was able to start the engine. It was only after I bypassed Marty's Fob Filter box that the fob synced.

Strange I know, as I have used EKA before without issues, although this was before I fitted the filter to stop the BECM waking on RF interference. Marty's box is << third the cost of replacement LR receiver.
 
pwood999 said:
Tony,
Exact message was "engine disabled . . press remote". There was no "enter eka" message. Obviously the fob buttons were not being received, so I entered EKA, and was able to start the engine. It was only after I bypassed Marty's Fob Filter box that the fob synced.

Strange I know, as I have used EKA before without issues, although this was before I fitted the filter to stop the BECM waking on RF interference. Marty's box is << third the cost of replacement LR receiver.
Click to expand...

Maybe Martys devise needs some mods then. But what i said in previous post still applies. If fob loses sync and EKA has been lost you cannot sync fob until EKA has been accepted.
 
I have had a similar issue but I don't have Marty's fix. Only 1 fob will resync. To resync the other I need to open it with the synced one first and then perform the sync procedure on the other key. Think Brian said clearing the RF memory using Nanocom can help.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Might be so worn it just doesn't lift the ... ****. Lost another word. The bits of metal in the lock that lift out the way and line up to let the key rotate.
Click to expand...
Especially as it's key 1. Or could be slightly bent, from being kept in a pocket. I did that to the house key. Didn't take much off straight for it not to play :(
 
The RF filter device from @martyuk only filters out invalid signals from being sent to the BeCM by the rubbish V1&2 LR RF units if they are triggered by noise spikes and spurious signals from 433Mhz RF doorbells and weather stations etc.. You have to have valid keys synched to the car's system still in order for the engine disabled message to be removed. So once the rolling codes are so far out of synch that means EKA entry or a Nanocom entry and RF code memory clearing. AFAIK.
 
DanClarke said:
The RF filter device from @martyuk only filters out invalid signals from being sent to the BeCM by the rubbish V1&2 LR RF units if they are triggered by noise spikes and spurious signals from 433Mhz RF doorbells and weather stations etc.. You have to have valid keys synched to the car's system still in order for the engine disabled message to be removed. So once the rolling codes are so far out of synch that means EKA entry or a Nanocom entry and RF code memory clearing. AFAIK.
Click to expand...

Yeah but how does he know it is valid? Some sort of handshake code? Maybe syncing doesn't use the handshake first?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Yeah but how does he know it is valid? Some sort of handshake code? Maybe syncing doesn't use the handshake first?
Click to expand...
I believe that when you enter the correct EKA via the key the BeCM knows you are the legit owner and when you put your key in, instead of getting the "Engine Disabled" message it says "Press Remote", you press the remote and it uses the latest rolling code from the fob to reset/resync the fob and the BeCM atthat time. However, you may then have 1 key that works while the other doesn't.
I think this is why entering the EKA with a Nanocom and then a "Clear RF Memory" in Nanocom can then get BOTH keys back up and running. At least this ALWAYS works for me with my Nanocom.
But at least the user can get one key working and start their car.
 
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