How do I service my 200tdi?

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hperry said:
Thanks, just took this:
View attachment 184173
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Thats a 200 engine, specifcally the disco 200tdi version.

The only awkward thing on them is getting the kin oil filter off as can be a right swine mainly due to access, the 3 fingered claw fliter clamps work well, filters pliers rubbish as cant get swing, filters straps rubbish again cant get swing.

Dont believe all the 6.6/6.7 litres of oil rubbish, stick in 5.5 litres give it a run and leave it standing for several hours to get an accurate level, 1 litre min to max on the dipsstick, do not ever add a whole litre guaranteed next day it will have to much in it!
 
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hperry said:
Ok, thanks for your advice. How do you go about your servicing? Do you get somebody else to do it for you or do it yourself? And how often do you do it?
And in that case... I take it I shouldn’t be concerned that somebody hasn’t been transparent somewhere down the line with regards to it being a 200tdi conversion? I mean everything seems to function fine, only annoying thing is gear 2 crunching when changing down from gear 1
Click to expand...

Every 5k or annually for oil and filter and fuel filter, fuel is self bleeding
Valve clearances every second year along with transmission oils.

2nd gear crunch quite normal with the lt77 and the r380 if they are worn wich they always are, lt77 reverse is lever left and forwards, r380 reverse is lever right and backwards.
Try some fresh gearbox oil first or just learn to double clutch and live with it, if you let the car slow down enough before engaging 2nd most of the time its liveable with.
 
Your air filter is in a better place than mine :)
Disco 200tdi in a 1987 90.
I recently did all fluids and filters. Easy enough to do.
Do you have proof of a cam belt change? If not, they are worth doing.
Not for the novice but it is a diy job with the correct tools :)
upload_2019-7-12_19-7-50.png
 
My Old Landy said:
Your air filter is in a better place than mine :)
Disco 200tdi in a 1987 90.
I recently did all fluids and filters. Easy enough to do.
Do you have proof of a cam belt change? If not, they are worth doing.
Not for the novice but it is a diy job with the correct tools :)
View attachment 184182
Click to expand...
No I haven’t proof, so will look to do it. Where can I get more info on how to change it, along with the tools required? Thanks!
 
The Haynes manual has a section saying what tools you need. A decent selection of metric and imperial sockets and spanners (it is a Land Rover!) with screwdrivers, oil filter removal tools, a decent trolley jack and correctly rated axle stands, wheel chocks and a large receptacle for used oil. Don’t forget some cloth and disposable gloves too.

As you do more work, your tool collection will invariably grow so you will find a tool chest or roll cab a good investment too!
 
hperry said:
No I haven’t proof, so will look to do it. Where can I get more info on how to change it, along with the tools required? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Most information is on YT and in a Haynes manual.
For tools to do the cam belt, apart from the usual spanners and sockets, you will need three things.
1. A crank pulley spanner
2. A beam type torque wrench
3. A 350nm Torque wrench

Notes: Item 1 You can make your own as I did or buy the correct one.
Item 2 some will say you can use a click type but the book recommends the beam type.
Item 3 some will say just tighten with a long bar but that is a risk you take.
Picture of my home made spanner and the 350nm torque wrench. You don't need to strip it this much I was doing other work and changed it as I had the access.
upload_2019-7-13_15-49-21.png
 
If it's a military lt77 box then the 1st and 2nd gears are lower than the normal gear boxes for towing. I get a crunch between 1st and 2nd also but I very rarely ever set off in 1st. I normally set off in 2nd other than on steep hills. As long as you don't ride the clutch, and you don't need to with these beasts.
 
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