Landrover Defender 90 200Tdi - Brakes/calipers , Radio electrics and security

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I just replaced the bushes on my hockey sticks with oem rubber. I actually wound them into place using some threaded rod in a "bush repair " fashion.

The old ones have to come out whichever type you use!
 
Arrrgh… it never stops eh…
Just discovered that the A frame ball joint rubber boot is in pieces and the drop arm ball joint is completely fubar’d…the brake disks are down to 12mm which I believe is an MOT failure, so definitely replacement needed of all disks and calipers… doesn’t appear to have any wheel bearing trouble, but I guess that’s going to show itself soon if there is….
life just got more interesting !
 
Captainflint1967 said:
Arrrgh… it never stops eh…
Just discovered that the A frame ball joint rubber boot is in pieces and the drop arm ball joint is completely fubar’d
Click to expand...

The joys of land rover ownership lol.
It might be worth changing the ball joint rather than just the boot. If you do make sure you get a lemforder one, don't go cheap.
Also you might find the steering box seal has perished (on the spline that holds the drop arm on), which you probably won't know until you drive it.
Both jobs can be a pain in the arse to do as they need a puller or big hammer.
You can buy the a frame ball joint already pressed into the fulcrum, but they're not cheap.
 
There is a little kit available to help change the drop arm joint, about £20 on the flee bay.
If you can pop the A frame joint from the axle without to much aggro and it feels ok [ doubt it has worn standing still ] fit a new boot, about a £5
 
84AC96C4-0EE9-44EB-B70A-5D38D79F0791.jpeg
Here’s the A frame ball joint with its split boot, might be worth changing the whole unit although I can’t tell if it’s affecting the ride at all.
:)
When ‘rocking the steering wheel’ the drop ball joint moves from side to side without moving the road wheels… a new ‘Landrover tool’ to remove the internals and a new ball joint required.
All good fun eh !
84AC96C4-0EE9-44EB-B70A-5D38D79F0791.jpeg
DE2850B9-D2CA-4DF2-AB3F-539F55B34C3C.jpeg
 
Dont waste money on a special tool for the drop arm ball joint a few correct sized sockets and a bolt/threaded bar works:D.

The hardest part is getting the bottom plate in to get the clip in place:).

I had a new drop arm ready, complete incase I got roughneck with it:eek::D. So I have a spare on the shelf:).

J
 

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Much appreciated, those photos are very helpful, I’ll try and build one myself.
Do I need a ball joint splitter tool or use Landrover tool #1 to separate the two ? - drop arm ball joint to drag link (if that’s the correct name for the bar connected to the drop arm from the steering box - still learning the correct names for the parts
 
Captainflint1967 said:
Much appreciated, those photos are very helpful, I’ll try and build one myself.
Do I need a ball joint splitter tool or use Landrover tool #1 to separate the two ? - drop arm ball joint to drag link (if that’s the correct name for the bar connected to the drop arm from the steering box - still learning the correct names for the parts
Click to expand...

Ball joint spliter is always handy. even the cheap version which is just a wedge to be used with number 1 tool:D but that will knacker the rubber gaitor but as you will be replacing that in both cases, it wont matter. Not had to do the rear 1 (yet) but looks tight to get the better type in to break the taper;) but the better 1s are not many £s:). Some say 2 number 1s either side will break the taper (never managed it myself).
As I said the hardest part is getting the bottom plate in. Which I think the tool would help with but I don't know. It just took time and mine is free to me:)
Prepare your change cos you will need lots for the swear jar:).

J
 
Breaking the taper on the rear axle joint can be tough. Done a couple lately, On mine loosened nut and a whack with the lump hammer and it popped. On my mate's had to resort to a good cooking before it shifted. My nickname for the drop arm is the GRRR joint.:)
 
Captainflint1967 said:
View attachment 275392 Here’s the A frame ball joint with its split boot, might be worth changing the whole unit although I can’t tell if it’s affecting the ride at all.
:)
When ‘rocking the steering wheel’ the drop ball joint moves from side to side without moving the road wheels… a new ‘Landrover tool’ to remove the internals and a new ball joint required.
All good fun eh !
View attachment 275392 View attachment 275393
Click to expand...

why Land Rover didn’t fit all of these with grease nipples I do not know

edit - make sure you replace the ball joints with ones that are greaseable.
 
payydg said:
why Land Rover didn’t fit all of these with grease nipples I do not know

edit - make sure you replace the ball joints with ones that are greaseable.
Click to expand...
I do.....
How would they make money from replacing parts, if they last longer......
 
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