Heres one for ya

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classic kev said:
It might sound silly but have you go the leads correctly routed and clipped into place. It is not unknown for misfires to be caused by ht leads touching. Check Haynes/Rave/Workshop manual for correct routing of leads and see if it makes a difference.
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Thank god.:doh: Is this not exactly what was said earlier in this thread. As you say; there is a very good schematic of dizzy cap and lead layout on RAVE Disk.
icon12.gif
 
I have cleaned and gapped the plugs properly, and dizzy is right, it ran so much better since we put it back in but its still not perfect. The guy who did it does know what he is doing though so I have ruled out those two.

Re the leads, I have spent some time feckin with them to rout them properly , it seems to be the king lead where it passes the alternator that is causing most of the tracking. I did spill some oil on it, wondered if its that, but it was doing it before too. when it stops blowing a gale and pssin it down I will go and have a crack at putting some rubber hose over it where it passes the alternator.
 
fett said:
Re the leads, I have spent some time feckin with them to rout them properly , it seems to be the king lead where it passes the alternator that is causing most of the tracking. I did spill some oil on it, wondered if its that, but it was doing it before too. when it stops blowing a gale and pssin it down I will go and have a crack at putting some rubber hose over it where it passes the alternator.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the insulation on the king lead is breaking down. Sleeving might help but you might also consider butchering an old but known good HT lead to make a king lead and see what happens.
 
fett said:
Daft to have to be feckin with it , its only a few months old and genuine lucas!
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I know what you mean. I've had brand new parts that didn't work:mad:. Could be worse I suppose, I once thought I had a brake problem and swapped out the the ABS booster unit only to discover a couple of days later I had a very dodgey wheel bearing:eek:. I should have known better really.

Chin up, keep at it you'll get there (eventually!)
 
Going back to an earlier reply in this thread, I am back home now (had a good run back from N.Wales).

You were asking about temperature thermistor, AFM and ECU. In simple terms, the Hot Wire air flow meter has a heated wire and an unheated wire; these are the compensating and sensing wires in the air flow meter. There is a control box on top of the air flow meter and as I understand it, the compensating wire reacts to the incoming air and the control box compares the sensing and compensating wires to give an output signal to the ECU. Air mass is related to temperature.

The ECU also needs to know about engine temperature and also fuel temperature. The fuel and coolant thermistors send signals to the ECU which will increase (or decrease) the injector pulse depending on the temperature.

If any of the sensors fail, the ECU will default to limp home mode - this is a basic fuel map that enables the engine to run but it runs very rich. I had a duff ecu that couldn't read the air flow meter, I found I had to disconnect the air flow meter. I was getting an average of just 6MPG. You know when something is not right because the EFI warning light should come on. If there is something very wrong and no light, it could mean you have a bad ECU.

I would suggest anyone with a 14CUX ECU to get a spare one; has saved my behind before now I know.

Anyways, hope that is of some use/help.
 
classic kev said:
Going back to an earlier reply in this thread, I am back home now (had a good run back from N.Wales).

You were asking about temperature thermistor, AFM and ECU. In simple terms, the Hot Wire air flow meter has a heated wire and an unheated wire; these are the compensating and sensing wires in the air flow meter. There is a control box on top of the air flow meter and as I understand it, the compensating wire reacts to the incoming air and the control box compares the sensing and compensating wires to give an output signal to the ECU. Air mass is related to temperature.

The ECU also needs to know about engine temperature and also fuel temperature. The fuel and coolant thermistors send signals to the ECU which will increase (or decrease) the injector pulse depending on the temperature.

so I take it the fule temp sensor is the thing on the pressure loop/rail that looks like it has an injector wiring plug on it?

If any of the sensors fail, the ECU will default to limp home mode - this is a basic fuel map that enables the engine to run but it runs very rich. I had a duff ecu that couldn't read the air flow meter, I found I had to disconnect the air flow meter. I was getting an average of just 6MPG. You know when something is not right because the EFI warning light should come on. If there is something very wrong and no light, it could mean you have a bad ECU.

I would suggest anyone with a 14CUX ECU to get a spare one; has saved my behind before now I know.

Anyways, hope that is of some use/help.
Click to expand...

so I take it the fule temp sensor is the thing on the pressure loop/rail that looks like it has an injector wiring plug on it? wondered what that was like today!

I have the coolant one to change but after my ****part stpper I am reluctnant to put inanother ****part part!
 
Beast o Bodmin said:
FETT....

I Do have a 4.0 manual on the drive with lpg im stripping.

do you want light weight wings in fiberglass to fit,makes it lighter so better on fuel....


I got the parts everyone wants ....

the lpg kit is well sweet.i was getting 28-32 mpg equilavent cost to petrol.

that is why i have the parts you need....
Click to expand...

If you provide fitting I am interested but like I said before I want some comeback!
 
fett said:
so I take it the fule temp sensor is the thing on the pressure loop/rail that looks like it has an injector wiring plug on it? wondered what that was like today!

I have the coolant one to change but after my ****part stpper I am reluctnant to put inanother ****part part!
Click to expand...

Yes.

and

You don't have to always have a Britprt dodgey replacement. A lot of independent motor factors can supply a temperature sensor - most will sell you one made by inter-mota; certainly I have used one of their ignition amplifiers with no problem and the price was not OTT either.
 
Thing is when you order form paddocks lke I did you dont know who makes it as they dont say, two thirds of the parts I ordered were ****part sadly. I am going to have to get my money back on the stepper which wont be easy as I fitted it and took it off so its marked, it was £55 too but it just dont work!
 
that is why its best to take yer chances on scrap yard stuff.

ive only ended up with 1 dud part so far which i took apart for a bearing so all was not lost.

**** new stuff except clutch etc....

I am on my 2nd 2nd hand clutch now yes any way so who cares.a second hand clutch for 20 quids is good in my book.

most scrappers ande peeps like me run vehicles very very cheaply so if prehaps i can help with my extensive parts store i will but its up to you.

i like scrap stores.yummie.....:):)
 
Yeah I love scrappies, I am tryna make some space to start a mini one at the back of the garden!

I have been stockpiling a few bits too, as my mate broke a classic recently but I will ask you is I need some.

Trouble I have is that like my autobox recently its the labour that kills you, I had to get (tomorrow) a recon one fitted as the labour of fitting is much worse if it doesnt work first time its all got to come out again.

My classic aint that cheap to run as it uses so much feckin fuel!
 
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