P38A Height Sensor replacement

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Those front target heights nee to be within +/- 2 of each other. When below 1mph, the EAS opens the two front valves only, to level the front axle. With unbalanced front Target Heights, the system will cycle between moving to target, and leveling the front.

Also it would be better to get the values with a door open, so it's at standard height, (not levelling).

It needs calibrating.
 
Those front target heights nee to be within +/- 2 of each other. When below 1mph, the EAS opens the two front valves only, to level the front axle. With unbalanced front Target Heights, the system will cycle between moving to target, and leveling the front.

Also it would be better to get the values with a door open, so it's at standard height, (not levelling).

It needs calibrating.
Gotcha.. so how should I calibrate it?
 
Two options. In both cases, you manually adjust the corners to correct height, and then save the values from the height sensors into the ECU. Start with High Mode. Then do Standard, Motorway & Access in order.

1) Use the measurements above & a tape measure.
2) Use blocks between chassis & axles ( or )

There's plenty of posts on this forum about it.
 
I understand that they're not inches just that multiple "Experts" told me that the numbers don't have any measurements units and they're just a reference for the diagnostic...
 
All P38 differ slightly - there is no mm to bitcount reference.

To calibrate, you manually set the car height (either with blocks or measurements), and then program that value into the EAS ECU as the target. Then in normal operation the ECU adjusts to that particular height, until the target is reached.

The actual bitcount depends on where you set it during calibration, but must be within the following range for each height, or the ECU will reject it.
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Ah. Does anyone have the bit count numbers correlating to the factory heights in mm? Or is that on the previous page?

You are correct. There's a bit count from 0 to 255.

There are default values for each height setting somewhere on this site. After that I find the calibration blocks easiest to grab the correct values. Again, the dimensions of the blocks are on here somewhere, probably in the late Wammers How To in the Technical Section.
 
You are correct. There's a bit count from 0 to 255.

There are default values for each height setting somewhere on this site. After that I find the calibration blocks easiest to grab the correct values. Again, the dimensions of the blocks are on here somewhere, probably in the late Wammers How To in the Technical Section.
A measuring stick is quicker and easier than blocks.
 
All P38 differ slightly - there is no mm to bitcount reference.

To calibrate, you manually set the car height (either with blocks or measurements), and then program that value into the EAS ECU as the target. Then in normal operation the ECU adjusts to that particular height, until the target is reached.

The actual bitcount depends on where you set it during calibration, but must be within the following range for each height, or the ECU will reject it.
View attachment 320089
Thanks for the info! I see in the videos they're using some kind of a computer program. I have a Nanocom, will I be able to program the new heights with it, without a computer?
 
Also, is it necessary to have an air compressor to lift the air suspension? Mine is kinda broken, it wants to drop into access mode, I suppose the only way to lift it manually is with a compressor?
 
Thanks for the info! I see in the videos they're using some kind of a computer program. I have a Nanocom, will I be able to program the new heights with it, without a computer?
Yes Nanocom can save the height values. There's several threads on this forum showing how to calibrate the heights. There's also a few YouTube videos as well.
 
Also, is it necessary to have an air compressor to lift the air suspension? Mine is kinda broken, it wants to drop into access mode, I suppose the only way to lift it manually is with a compressor?
Yes an air compressor is needed to lift the air suspension, the car is fitted with one, first job is to make sure that the cars compressor works and is making good pressure.
 
Yes an air compressor is needed to lift the air suspension, the car is fitted with one, first job is to make sure that the cars compressor works and is making good pressure.
So I can use the Nanocom to lift the car with its air compressor, so I could fit the blocks? Or I was wondering if I needed a workshop air compressor. Sorry for the dumb questions, my husband has given up on trying to problem solve my car so it's up to me with my little mechanical knowledge to find answers online.
 
So I can use the Nanocom to lift the car with its air compressor, so I could fit the blocks? Or I was wondering if I needed a workshop air compressor. Sorry for the dumb questions, my husband has given up on trying to problem solve my car so it's up to me with my little mechanical knowledge to find answers online.
With Nanocom, you can send the suspension to any height. You will need the engine running when you do the calibration. For the measuring stick a I use a piece of alloy but wood will do, stand the stick on the ground, (must be level ground, put a mark at the wheel center, from that mark measure and mark the 4 heights that have to be calibrated. The measurements have been posted many times, if you cannot find them I will post them again this evening when I'm in the office.
 
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