Heater Core O Rings

Hi - First Thread, Grateful of any pointers...

Been reading rr.net, about to replace the heater core o rings on 200 p38 4.0, i'm worried that its a big job with the dash and instruments having to come out and i was wondering if anyone has any tips on the whole process and more importantly how to avoid doing more damage in the process! I really don't fancy taking the whole dash apart and put it back together to find that i either should have done something as well, or have broken something cos i wasnt careful enough!!

As I say, I've been reading rr.net and will be following their process, but any tips are welcome! Thanks

These aren't my only problems with the car, but it is the most important on the priority list as it obviously affects the coolant levels - the drivers carpet is soaked! All that said, bloody love the big thing - and the wife likes the comfort - if only she knew how much it took to keep on the road!!

Cheers,
Shane

can be done in an hour and a half- worse bit removing centre console panels until you understand how they fit. if your not sure first time then remove window controls to make it easier. send me a pm with a mobile number and I can explain a few short cuts, like the hidden drilled hole that saves hours.

You can replace the 'O' Rings without removing the dash, if you aren't mechanically minded then allow a morning, it not a hard job just fiddly.

As Fanatic said remove the window controls, centre console covers, then remove the Hevac unit and the Radio.

You will also have to remove the cover panels above the foot pedals on RHD models which I take it you have, as you don't state your location theres no chance of anyone offering to give you hand with the job..... ..

Now undo the heater pipe hose clips and remove the heater hoses under the bonnet by the bulk head (this allows easier movement of the metal pipes inside.

Then use a very long cross head screwdriver (about 12+ inches) to undo the screw holding the heater pipes to the heater core.

Tip: Get someone to keep slight pressure on the screwdriver while your changing the 'O' Rings, just to stop the screwdriver coming out of the screw and also to stop the screw falling out of the hole..

When I did my 'O' Rings I had help for about 15 mins while I changed the 'O'Rings and reseated the pipes.


Quoted Text from Web Page:


Update February 2008: A Land Rover tech of 10 years standing alerted us that there is now a much easier way the dealers have figured out. "All you need to do is pull the glove box and the hvac unit. You can slide a very long posidrive screwdriver through the upper right corner of the hvac unit mounting opening all the way back into the screw that secures the heater pipes into the heater box. I have done countless of these repairs while working at the dealer for ten years. You can figure on spending about and hour and a half the first time, after that you can start getting them done in 45 minutes or so".

If by chance you happen to strip out the screw for the heater core o-rings most of the time you can apply a small amount of valve grinding compound to the screwdriver head and get enough grip to break the screw loose.


Links here:


Heater core 'O' Rings>Heater Core O-Ring Replacement


Don't be frightened just take your time.

hth

zzr1200

As both Fanatic and ZZR1200 have mentioned it is possible without removing the dash. I have done mine and one further tip is that you can cut the remove the air duct which feeds the back of the car, they are pretty useless anyway and once removed the job is so much easier. Once removed you can tape up the hole to stop the air coming out.
Do expect some cuts on the back of your hands as the process is fiddly with sharp edges on some of the metalwork!:crutch:

This is one of those jobs that I spent many hours reading about and getting all stressed about, only to find that when I finally did it, it was a piece of cake. The guide mentioned is spot on. I cut the offending heater duct with a drywall pad saw - the hacksaw blade i started with was too fine. Stop stressing and get in there !

As Rewmer says, too many people are afraid to work on P38's because they think it's akin to brain surgery. Using common sense, just get stuck in!!

Sorry for the late reply, christmas got in the way!

I'm going to be doing the job on Monday and I'm based in Belfast - any help would be much appreciated!! I guess you are all across the water anyway.

Thanks for the advice - with it being my daily driver, I am always concerned about doing something which will leave me up the creek...

Thanks,
Shane

one point to mention the original "o" rings on mine were like small rubber bands and the clamp bracket had stand off lips on it. If you get standard "o" rings as replacement then the flats on the side must pull down further or it won't clamp down and will leak. (ask me how I know-answer I found out the hard way)

Hey,
Thanks for the pointers - job done today, great success. Definitely i agree with you all that it is easier than it sounds. Key was to remove the water pipes from the engine side. Top 'O ring' had split in two - great cause when i removed the lower o ring it was perfectly intact and i was worried that i'd spent all that time and effort for nothing!!

Thanks again,
Shane