Series 3 Heater control valve makers

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Webley1991

Well-Known Member
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Location
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I bought a replacement heater control valve for my Series 3, which was sold as "OEM". When it arrived, it turned out to be a Britpart.

The Bearmach ones look absolutely identical in photos, but are a little more expensive.

Is there anything to be gained by fitting a Bearmach one instead, or are they exactly the same item?

Are these sold under any other brands, and are these good or bad quality?

Thanks for any replies.
 
If it's the brass thing, open it all the way and have a look down the inlet.

i recently got one from a supplier that when "open" all the way had only a small opening - well less than half the outlet pipe diameter. What the hell good is a heater with little to no water flow, I asked the supplier, who didn;t answer but promptly refunded my money.

Have a look at yours - make sure it opens properly. THis is the bane of cheap valves - they may not leak but then again you may get squat for water flow.

Alan
 
It's this type of valve. I think the Brass one was for the Series 2.

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Return it for a refund, make up a pipe and elbow and connect direct. Builders
/plumbers merchant for parts for very little money. I can thread a pipe for you, the heater only works with the fan running and most times you need full heat.
 
the inside diameter of that valve is tiny too I noticed when I cleaned mine out, must let through a lot less water than just a pipe would, fully intend to lose mine and do as divie suggests before the winter sets in
 
Thanks for the replies.

The box is marked OEM and it actually has a G at the beginning of the serial number.

I did think of replacing it with a bit of threaded pipe. I have access to the facilities to do that myself. I would cut off a length, thread and bend it at 90 degrees.
 
Series three heaters are not that bad. Bin the valve and give the matrix a good flush, best off the vehicle and put the hose on each pipe in turn.
Mine is very good (82 degree stat fitted)
 
Thanks for the replies. I fitted a 90 degree elbow and hose tail. The air coming through seems warm enough.

For future reference: If anyone else is planning to do this, you need a 3/8 BSP 90 Degree elbow and a 3/8 BSP x 9/16" hose tail. The parts can easily be found on ebay, and work out a lot cheaper than the valve.
 
Webley1991 said:
Thanks for the replies. I fitted a 90 degree elbow and hose tail. The air coming through seems warm enough.

For future reference: If anyone else is planning to do this, you need a 3/8 BSP 90 Degree elbow and a 3/8 BSP x 9/16" hose tail. The parts can easily be found on ebay, and work out a lot cheaper than the valve.
Click to expand...
Many thanks for this Webley - after having had a cold winter in the landy, I am going to swap mine out. What diameter did you go with and was the elbow male or female?
 
Another vote for bin the valve, even with the 2a in cab heater with the fan off and heater unit door's shut little heat reaches the cab.
 
tottot said:
Another vote for bin the valve, even with the 2a in cab heater with the fan off and heater unit door's shut little heat reaches the cab.
Click to expand...
That's what I was thinking, I am just not that clear on how wide a diameter to go on any brass where - I am assuming the more hot water I can get into the matrix the better. If anyone has a view, I would be grateful.
 
I used a 3/8 BSP male to male brass elbow fitting. 3/8 BSP is the thread size.

The hose tail was 3/8 BSP female thread by 9/16" OD at the hose tail end. I am unsure of the internal diameter of the elbow, but the system seems to work fine.

No noticable heat comes through into the cab when the heater fan motor is not running.
 
Webley1991 said:
I used a 3/8 BSP male to male brass elbow fitting. 3/8 BSP is the thread size.

The hose tail was 3/8 BSP female thread by 9/16" OD at the hose tail end. I am unsure of the internal diameter of the elbow, but the system seems to work fine.

No noticable heat comes through into the cab when the heater fan motor is not running.
Click to expand...
Great, thanks. I have just ordered from a plumbing website. I noticed allot of the bends were either 12 or 14mm, I have gone with 14mm, since it is near 9/16. Keen to get as much hot water into the matrix, since the aperature on the heater valve looks tiny. Thanks again for posting. I am sure others will appreciate it.
 
Hi again. Having replaced the heater valve with the brass elbow (it works a treat and as you advised, cant tell without the fan on) I have now taken the heater motor out, since it has been whinning. Having got it out on the bench, there is some play in the hamster/wheel fan. I have removed the allen key, but the hamster/wheel fan still wont come off? I placed some WD40 in there last night and tempted to add some heat today - but it wont pull off nor turn off. Having looked in the manuals, there is no detail. Any ideas
 
Have just seen your other thread. It appears that your fan is metal.

Mine was plastic and held on with a spring clip. I was able to simply pull it off the motor spindle.

Sorry I can't offer any more advice.
 
Thanks Webley. Mine is the original metal one and I suspect motor. I have a replacement plastic one, which is not as deep, probably 8cm shorter. It is covered in rust yet works surprisingly well. The Landy was my grandfathers. He would not have spent anything on it unless he had to. I am keen to try and recondition it, yet I cant get the metal wheel off. I will try some heat. Many thanks for the reply tho. Appreciate it.
 
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